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the tire is pulled back too hard against the chain. Loosen the rear wheel nuts and re tighten them make sure there is no slack in the chain, and make sure the wheel is centered by checking the gap between the tire and the chainstay(rear part of frame, looks like a triangle)
YES, and you set the chain tension with - Countershaft sprocket centerline, the swingarm bolt centerline, and the rear axle nut centerline - ALL THREE IN A STRAIGHT LINE....Use a yardstick to make sure they are IN LINE!!! Have one of your fat buddies sit on it while you adjust the chain. Make sure the chain runs IN A STRAIGHT LINE regardless of the marks on the chain tensioners!!!!!!!! I have always loosened the chain a lot, kicking the tire forward so when I CORRECTLY adjust the chain it is MUCH EASIER to make sure the chain is in straight line (you should remove the chain guard so you can see the chain), do it slowly, rotating the tire while watching the chain, making sure IT RUNS TRUE!! - Forget the alignment marks!!... then slowly get the tension correct (with your fat buddy sitting on it).. remember what 3 things HAVE to be in a straight line... snug the tensioners good - NOW tighten the axle...do not over tighten. THEN finish snugging down the chain tensioners. reinstall the chain guard. Double check the axle nut!!!!
wow thats not a good thing since it and the cams are spring loaded, you will need to take the rocker cover off and check the cams one or both will need to be backed off to provide slack to install the tensioner again sorry! You will need to get a manual!!! Look under cam timing
Chain tension is set by loosening the two bolts on the rear wheel and pulling the wheel back and then tightening it in the position when the chain is at desired tension.
LOL! U took too many link.... u just have to deduct at least 1 link at a time or the tire is misaligned, i meant the way u put back the tyre in the swing arm!
First your going to remove the deck. Take off the chain tensioner Next remove the motor and put the chain around the gear Put the motor back on the scooter with the chain on Then take the rear wheel off and put the chain into the gear. Put the rear wheel back on along with the chain tensioner and deck Your done!
Note: the reason why I say you have the remove the motor and wheel is the get the chain on. So you may only have to partial remove the motor or tires to get the chain on.
This is how to fix the tire:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pzr_RGTWWoc I unfortunately haven't seen any good videos on rear BMX wheels and tires. If you already have the wheel off, you can just follow the video and then reverse the steps you took to remove the rear wheel. If not, you will first have to make sure all the air is out of the tire. Then if there are stunt pegs on the rear you will need a deep socket that fits the wheel nut and an extension bar and ratchet wrench. The reason to have the tire flat when removing and installing the wheel is so you can get past the brake pads if you have rear brakes. If you have pegs it is easier to remove them completely so you can unhook the chain from the rear freewheel. When reinstalling the wheel, you have to apply tension to the chain by sliding the wheel back before tightening the nuts. It is easier if you center the wheel and tighten the nut on the side opposite to the freewheel just snug enough so the wheel won't move forward. Then put tension on the chain side and tighten that nut. Alternate this procedure until the wheel is centered and there is proper tension on the chain. Proper tension is when you back pedal by hand and it feels smooth not stiff and the chain does not sag.Once the wheel is installed with a new tube or both a new tube and tire you can look on the sidewall of the tire for how many pounds of air to inflate it to. I know this sounds confusing and it is tricky to do by yourself but once you've done it successfully it becomes easier each time. If you don't have the tools it is easier to have it done at a local bike shop. It is worth the money.Here are a couple more websites to search through for more information:http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=144 and http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_e-f.html#flatland I hope this helps and please get back to me if you need more help.
Your rear sprocket is worn. As your put the pressure on the pedals the chain is riding over the teeth and makes a crunching sound. The teeth could appear slightly hooked. You will probably find this does not happen in a different gear. You need to replace both the cassette (rear sprocket assembly) and the chain together because the chain wears to match the sprocket and if you just replace one you will still get the slipping. The front chain ring also wears but at a much slower than the rear so check it as well.
Also check the rear derailleur that it is tensioning the chain correctly and not damaged or if the bike is a single speed the rear wheel is positioned to give the correct chain tension.
I put my piston to toop dead center and readjusted my cam chain and it seems to be running fine. The only thing I had to do was to turn the idle up a notch which still kind of gets me....but it's better now.
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