Just replaced evaporator fan motor and plugged back in and coil getting cold and compressor working when should fan kick in

Condenser Coils are Dirty
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the condenser coils may be dirty. The condenser is like a radiator and must stay clean in order to dissipate the heat which was removed from the inside of the refrigerator. As the coils get dirtier the refrigerator becomes less efficient, which makes it work harder to cool down. If the coils are dirty enough, the unit will never be cold enough and will not be able to cool the inside of the refrigerator to the proper temperature.
Evaporator Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
Condenser Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
Start Relay
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the start relay may be defective. The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding along with the start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor started. If the start relay is defective the compressor may run intermittently or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. The start relay should be replaced if defective.
Temperature Control Thermostat
If the refrigerator does not get cold enough the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly check for an airflow or defrost system problem.
Start Capacitor
If the refrigerator isn't cold enough the compressor might be having difficulty starting. The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a little boost during start-up. If the start capacitor is burned out the compressor might not be able to start and run as often as it should. Test the start capacitor first with a capacitance meter, they don't fail often. If it's defective, replace it.
Thermistor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.
Temperature Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.
Compressor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the compressor might be defective. The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will need to replace it.
Main Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.

Condenser Coils are Dirty
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the condenser coils may be dirty. The condenser is like a radiator and must stay clean in order to dissipate the heat which was removed from the inside of the refrigerator. As the coils get dirtier the refrigerator becomes less efficient, which makes it work harder to cool down. If the coils are dirty enough, the unit will never be cold enough and will not be able to cool the inside of the refrigerator to the proper temperature.
Evaporator Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the evaporator fan motor might have failed. Every refrigerator has a set of coils called an evaporator. The refrigerator may have one or more evaporator fan motor(s) depending on the model and evaporator locations. The evaporator fan motor circulates the cold air from the coils thru the compartment. If there is only one evaporator it is in the freezer side. If the fan is not working, no cold air will get to the refrigerator compartment. The freezer may still get cold.
Condenser Fan Motor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough there might be something caught in the condenser fan motor blade, or the condenser fan motor might be defective. The condenser fan motor draws air over the condenser coils to cool them. The condenser fan motor is located underneath the refrigerator near the back. Pull the refrigerator out from the wall and remove the access panel to access it.
Start Relay
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the start relay may be defective. The start relay is a small device mounted to the side of the compressor. It provides power to the run winding along with the start winding for a split second at start-up to help get the compressor started. If the start relay is defective the compressor may run intermittently or not at all and the refrigerator will not get cold enough. The start relay should be replaced if defective.
Temperature Control Thermostat
If the refrigerator does not get cold enough the temperature control thermostat might be defective. The thermostat allows power to flow through to the compressor, evaporator fan and condenser fan. If the cooling system fans and compressor are running, but the refrigerator or freezer is not cooling correctly check for an airflow or defrost system problem.
Start Capacitor
If the refrigerator isn't cold enough the compressor might be having difficulty starting. The start capacitor serves as a battery to give the compressor a little boost during start-up. If the start capacitor is burned out the compressor might not be able to start and run as often as it should. Test the start capacitor first with a capacitance meter, they don't fail often. If it's defective, replace it.
Thermistor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the thermistor might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor which monitors the air temperature. It is connected to the control board. If the thermistor is defective the refrigerator does not cool or may cool continuously.
Temperature Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the temperature control board might be defective. The temperature control board provides the voltage to the fan motors and compressor. These boards are often misdiagnosed. Check all other components to be certain this is the cause of the problem.
Compressor
If the refrigerator is not cold enough, the compressor might be defective. The compressor is a motor which compresses the refrigerant and circulates the refrigerant through the evaporator and condenser coils. There are several other components which are more likely to be defective if the compressor doesn't work. If the compressor itself is defective a licensed professional will need to replace it.
Main Control Board
If the refrigerator is not cold enough the main control board might be defective. This is not common. Check the defrost system, cooling fans, and cooling controls first.

Jason,
MOST refrigerators get there cold from the freezer side and circulate it via a fan that's also normally inside the freezer. There are three motors normally in a refrigeration system. The inside Evaporator fan motor that circulates air across the evaporator coil inside the box, the Condenser fan motor near the compressor that cools the freon after compression, and the compressor itself. If you open the doors (and sometimes you may have to hold in the door switches) do you hear a fan running? If not you could have a couple things going on: 1. The fan(s) has failed. 2. The freezer Evap coil may of iced over and the fan too is frozen stopped. 3. Your condensing unit:(compressor, condenser fan, condenser coils) has a problem.
It is important to know if the compressor itself is running. If there is a loose connection to the compressor via the start/over load relay (normally attaches directly onto the compressor), or if the start/over load otself is bad the compressor will not run. Best way to tell is via gauges but I doubt your frig has ports. Check to see if your compressor is really hot. Could be bad start/over load relay or bad compressor. Try unplugging your frig for say 30 min then, with your hand on top of a cool compressor, plug the frig back in and see if compressor smoothly vibrates for at least 5 min without becoming very hot or shutting off even though fan continues to run. The fact your fan is running TYPICALLY means the thermostat is calling for lower temps and the fan/compressor kick in together.



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the unit may be knocking off on defrost if the coil is getting v cold,

check for full airflow over the indoor unit/evaporator coil, check filters fan operation and coil condition. Likewise it may be overheating so check the same on the outdoor unit/condenser clean coil and fan operation.

Unlikely but the unit may be under performing and slightly short on refrigerant, not providing enough suction cooling to the compressor motor so the internal over temp klixon would cut it off for short periods, to cool the motor.

. Cut everything off for a few minutes then turn it back on and listen for a click from the compressor relay as the compressor tries to start.
Is the compressor motor running.If no check starter/overload relay. If the relay is ok there is a compressor problem or low freon it it don't start

Check to see if the condenser fan at the back underneath near the compressor is running. If no check fan.

Are the condenser coils near there warm or room temp. should be warm




Is the evaporator fan in the freezer running. It blows cold air into the fridge side through a damper in the wall between the freezer and fridge. Make sure the damper is open.

Below the evaporator fan is the evaporator coils. Remove the back cover in the freezer to observe the frost pattern. Light frost everywhere(NORMAL) or a partial pattern of ice(LOW ON FREON) or nothing(LOW FREON OR COMPRESSOR PROBLEM).

possible causes: bad door seals or condensate drain plugged causing evaporator coils (in freezer) to ice up, condenser or evaporator fans not on, condenser coils dirty, compressor not working, or a freon leak. if the back wall of your freezer is frosty or super cold, the coils are iced up. remove the back wall and defrost it with a hair dryer. if the water doesn't drain, unclog the drain tube. check the door seals for gaps. replace if necessary. check the fan in the freezer and the fan in the back. both should come on when the compressor is on. if not, check the fuses on the main board. replace if needed. if all that is fine, and there is no frost, you have a slow leak or a bad compressor. call in a pro or get a new fridge.

possible causes: bad door seals or condensate drain plugged causing evaporator coils (in freezer) to ice up, condenser or evaporator fans not on, condenser coils dirty, compressor not working, or a freon leak. if the back wall of your freezer is frosty or super cold, the coils are iced up. remove the back wall and defrost it with a hair dryer. if the water doesn't drain, unclog the drain tube. check the door seals for gaps. replace if necessary. check the fan in the freezer and the fan in the back. both should come on when the compressor is on. if not, check the fuses on the main board. replace if needed. if all that is fine, and there is no frost, you have a slow leak or a bad compressor. call in a pro or get a new fridge.

I believe that because defrost is done by the mother control board this is why this is happening the part of the board that controls defrost is malfunctioning and the only way to resolve the problem is to replace the mother board part number WR55X10656 You can find the replacement board at these places below. Sea Breeze

http://appliancepartsse.blogspot.com/

http://appliancepartsse.blogspot.com/

Does the fan on the outdoor condensing unit come on when the compressor does? If so, Is the condenser coil clean so that the airflow from the fan can remove heat from the condenser coil so the compressor won't overheat and trip the internal overload compressor protection circuit? If yes then is the indoor evaporator fan working properly? If yes are your filters clear and evaporator coil clear so that adequate air is flowing over the coil to prevent the compressor low pressure protection circuit from tripping? If so is the refrigerant charge on the system correct- either overcharged or undercharged can trip the compressor protection circuit. By now you should have come across an explanation for your compressor short cycling. If I had to guess I would bet on inadequate airflow over the condenser coil do to a faulty condenser fan motor either not turning at all or turning for a few minutes and then stopping when it overheats. This is likely caused by an unsealed replacment motor being used outdoors and water/rust has accumulated over the winter season and/or the capacitor is bad (in this case the motor may be turning slowly backwards) or just plain old worn out. I hope this helps get you to cold air sometime soon GL!

Jeannine, on this model there is one motor that turns both the evaporator and condensor fans. First you want to check to see if there is any obstruction preventing the fans from turning. There is also a dual capacitor that gives this motor a kick start. If this goes bad the motor will not run, just humm. Hopefully it is just your capacitor that has failed but it could be the motor itself. Part number for the capacitor is 16-05-00710-109. Part number for the motor is 50-11-t26p0-050. Usually a bad capacitor will show signs of leaking or bulging, but not always...Catriver..post back