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Posted on Sep 05, 2011
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I HAVE WHIRLPOOL NO FROST REFRIGERATOR-FREEZER , IT IS NOT COOLING. I WANT TO LOCATE THE DEFROST TIMER PLEASE YOU HELP. THANKS .

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  • Master 2,341 Answers
  • Posted on Sep 05, 2011
Anonymous
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Hello,

Depending on model it have a defrsot timer or perhaps a electronic defrost control but they usually will be located in the control panel if you have a knob used to set the tempature and if it has a digital display that you set the temp. by pushing the button on the front it will have a defrsot control and thats not so easy to put into defrost as the timer is.

Please reply with exact model number as found on the label in the fresh food compartment and i will tell you if you have a defrost timer or electronic control


GENE

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Kenmore Freezer 106.727581: The freezer ices up and the temp goes up to 34 degrees. If I manually defrost it, it goes to 5 below zero in about 6 hours. How can I determine which of the below need to be...

The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited. Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system: The defrost timer The defrost thermostat (also called the bi-metal switch) The defrost heater. To determine if the defrost heater is burned out, watch this part testing video
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Refrigerator is not cooling

Good day,
You will need an ohm meter to check the parts.
Your defrost system has failed.
It is made up of 3 components, 2 of which are located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment.
Remove the rear panel. There is a cooling coil, that has a calrod heating element that runs along it's bottom. As well there is a defrost thermostat ( a small round 1" disk) which is located on the top of the same coil. Both should be checked with an ohm meter to test for continuity. The heater should read no more than 30 ohms, the thermostat ( IT MUST STILL BE COLD BELOW 30 DEGREES) should read zero ohms. Note: The heater rarely fails, the thermostat has a high failure rate.

The third item is a timer, or a solid state adaptive defrost control. Depending on age, and model, it is located , behind the kick plate on the bottom front.
Or, in the fresh food compartment on the roof.
If it is a timer, you can turn the timer shaft when the machine is running until the machine shuts off. With it still turned on, wait 40 minutes.
If the machine turns itself back on, the timer is O.K. if not, the timer is bad, and needs replaced.
If the Main heater checks O.K. and it has a solid state control, then replace the thermostat in the freezer compartment, and the solid state board.

Below is an excellant tutorial on defrost systems.

http://www.appliance411.com/faq/howdefrostworks.shtml
Thank you for using FixYa
1helpful
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I have a frigidaire freezer upright model#ffu20f9gw3

Without any additional info, there are a lot of possibilities:
1. Condenser coil (underneath unit) is dirty and clogged.
2. Compressor is failing. (need A/C tech)
3. Metering device is clogged. (need A/C tech)
4. Refrigerant charge is low. (need A/C tech)
5. Door seal is broken (frost will form around door).
6. Defrost heaters are stuck on (replace defrost timer located underneath unit at front).
7. Condenser fan has failed (underneath freezer on back).
8. Evaporator fan (inside fan) has failed (ice will form on cooling coil).

This should get you started...

If this helps you, please select YES to the first two ratings questions. Thank you, and Good Luck.
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1999 Frigidaire Refrigerator

Check rear wall of freezer by feel for frost. Heavy, even frost indicates likely problem in the defrost system. Unplug unit. Defrost heater (in freezer behind rear wall panel), defrost thermostat (same area-must be checked at freezer temperature) or Defrost timer-located lower back outside of unit. Near compressor. Do continuity test on heater and defrost thermostat and if they show continuity (good), replace defrost timer. If not, replace the one that tests bad.

Defrost coils fully. Reassemble.

Please let me know if I have helped with comments and rating.

Refrigerator will work about 7-10 days after being defrosted until thick frost builds up again cutting off air flow to both compartments

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