Washing machine - Need to replace motor cupling on the kenmore 90 series

check transmission cupling or motor

It is a 3.2 cu. ft. super size.

its more than likely the coupler which is easy to fix and cheap. It is located between the motor and trans, once you take off the motor the coupler is made up of three pieces. Two white plastic pieces and one black. That should do the trick!

It's quite possible.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (110.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump. This is likely why the machine drains.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.

all front loaders do is save alittle water,motor and pumps aree almost the same,kenmore makes the 300,400,500,600,series know and they will last forever,and if you do need a replacement part they are dirt cheap,because all parts are universal-mike

sounds like the motor coupler broke. it's a plastic piece near the motor and very easy to replace.

here'e a video you can watch to make it easier:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nM4DW2bq7o0

THIS IS A TYPICLE PROBLEM . BETWEEN THE MOTOR & THE TRANSMISSION THERE IS A COLLECTOR ASSEMBY (THREE PIECE
SET) REAL EASY TO GET TOO EASY TO FIX . ALSO COST EFFICENT

OK The Kenmore 90 series mod.# 110.28912791 is not hard to work on. The problem on the washer was no agitation or spin.First I took the agitater out of the tub,and put them aside. Then I tilted the washer to get to the bottom of the washer. Inbetween the motor and I gueuss pump there are three pieces that need to be replaced called (motor coupler). I disconnected ac cord from wall outlet, the cold and hot water hoses. I disconnected the wires at the motor one piece and one two wire connection pluss move a small canister with two wires out of the way. Removed three bolts bottom of pump pulled pump and motor out, you have to turn back and forth a little and the whole assembly comes out. there are two screws that hold two clips at side of motor and motor come off easy. You will notice there is a black rubber disc with a plastic white three prong piece on each side. (Remove those pieces install same way ( you need to use something to hit the center of the plastic till it sets in, install black rubber piece six wholes three prongs on one side. Install second white pronged piece on the pump side and also hit center to set. Place pump over motor looking to (make sure) the top three prongs go inside three holes left in the black rubber piece. Once you line and they go inside line the motor to where the for rubber legs sat before put clips back on install the two screws, install shaft back in moving the motor side to side install the three bolts, hook wires plugs under the motor put canister with two wires back hook the two hoses back next to motor, stand washer back up, install agitater back, hook hot and cold hoses back plug back in and test. parts at sears (one hours time start to finish taking your time) keep track of all parts. Make diagram if you need to believe me it was easy and washer works great now. By the way when I took the parts off they did not look broken but were bad because now I have a working washing mashine. ( Good Luck, Wyatt Earp )

Hi!

looks like you have a defective motor or a leaked load capacitor .....you need to get the motor rewired....or get a new motor for your washer..... have the capacitor checked....

but ya the issue is 1 of the 2....faulty cap/motor

Cheers!