Replacing a double light switch, the old switch has 6 terminals. The new metal double switch has the same but both commons are at the top where as the old one had common top and bottom. The L1 and L2 are likewise at the top and bottom on the old but they are all at the bottom on the new. Please advise how to wire.

Wiring is difficult to see without clear description of each wire inside the box... and more difficult when folks take wiring apart without taking photo of wiring before starting. Then they throw away the old switch,,, so comparison cannot be made to new switch.

That being said:
Did you install a new 3-way switch?
Is it a 3-way switch with 2 brass screws and 1 dark screw and 1 green screw? The dark-colored screw is common screw.

If you installed new 3-way switch, then it is probably wired wrong.
Or there is damage to a wire that is not covered with repair... or both bad wire and wrong wiring.

Look at OLD 3-way switch and identify which screw is the common screw. Should be marked on back of device.
Identify which wire went to common screw on OLD switch.
Look at NEW switch, and identify which is the common screw (dark-colored screw), and then attach OLD common wire to NEW common screw.

Otherwise, put old switch back into box... see if it works... take some photos... attach photos to comment to this thread ... take photo of new switch from back, showing all screws so I can see what is going on.

We can fix it it...and I will be here all evening to assist.

Gene
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If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Three way Switch installation; One cable has two wires plus a bare copper grounding wire, The other cable has three wires plus a ground.
1. Connect the black wire from the two-wire cable to the dark common screw terminal. 2. Connect the red and black wires from the three-wire cable to the traveler screw terminals. 3. Join the white neutral wires together with a wire connector and pigtail the grounding wires to the grounded metal box. 4. When the switch lies at the end of the circuit one cable enters the box. 5. The cable has a black wire, red wire, and white wire, plus a bare copper grounding wire. 6. Connect the black wire to the dark common screw terminal. 7. Connect the white and red wires to the two traveler screw terminals and the bare copper grounding wire to the grounded metal box.
I hope this help.

1) More information is needed about switch that is being replaced, and model number of new switch, and what you want to do, and what each wire goes to.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-wire-switches.html#double

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Each side of the switch has two terminals. On one side the two terminals are connected together with a little metal bar that is a removable part of the switch. On the other side of the switch the terminals are not connected together. Your hot wire coming in to the switch box should be connected to either of the two terminals that are connected together with the little metal bar. Your two output wires (one for the fan and one for the light) should be connected to the two terminals that are not connected together. You apparently have the fan and light connected to the terminals that are connected by the metal bar, and you have the hot wire connected to both terminals on the other side. You could switch the wires from side to side, or you could just break off the little metal bar.

I bought some of these simmerstats to refurb an industrial machine and faced the same issues - which terminals do what?
The parts came with a confusing wiring diagram, the terminal numbers didn't match.
The good news is that you can easily get inside this unit to see how it works without damaging it.
Release the metal front plate by gently lifting the tangs with a screwdriver then undrneath is a plastic shield which isn't glued in or anything, it just pulls out.
Here's what I found:
The bi-metal heater is connected between 2 and 4.
The bi-metal switch is between P1 and 2.
There is an auxiliary switch between 4 and P2 (P2 is the same metal strip as PILOT).
The auxiliary switch is closed when the control is 'not off'.
I also noted the short metal stub near 'TOP', in line with 2.
It is in fact the same metal strip as 2 so should be treated with respect i.e. it has mains voltage on it.
For my application, I wired:
Live in to P1
Neutral in to 4
Load powered from 2, returning to Neutral
Pilot Light from P1 to P2 (observe that the pilot wiring is a bit scary because it has a switched neutral).

check wiring to cavity air pressure switch terminals eg the two wires should be connected to common(c) and Normally open (NO)

Please note that there are many ways to wire this device.
In general, this is how the Pass and Seymour Legrand 1595-2SWT device is usually wired:
There are 3 wires permanently attached to the device, black, red, and yellow. These wires are for switching _only_ and are in no way connected to the GFCI receptacle at the factory. The black is "common", which means that this is the wire that is connected to the incoming HOT (black) wire _from_ the circuit breaker (or source). When making this connection add an approx. 6 inch black pigtail to it. (more on this later.)

The red is connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to, pick one, let's say the existing lights. The yellow is then connected to the black wire (switch leg) that goes to the new exhaust fan.

The incoming white (neutral) wire that is in the same cable as the incoming HOT wire is connected to BOTH the white wire that goes to the existing light and the white wire that goes to the new exhaust fan. Again, when making this connection, add a 6 inch white pigtail to it.

The switches will now work.

Do you now see that to power up the GFCI receptacle all one needs to do is connect the (see above) 6 inch black pigtailed wire to the "HOT" (LINE) screw terminal and the 6 inch white pigtailed wire to the "WHITE" (LINE) screw terminal?

In this case the lower LOAD screw terminals on the device are _not_ used.

used a multi tester to locate the right terminals

Ask the Frigidaire Agent to go talk to a technician and get the answer to your problem. Technicians are available to the Agents. 1 (800) 374-4432

The original fan switch for the SEG196 (circa 1995) is a four terminal switch- two for the fan and two for the light . Note that the switch spade lugs for the red and blue wires (which when connected activate the fan) are larger than those for the white and brown wires (which when connected activate the oven light). This design presumably prevented miswiring of the switch at original assembly. Since the four terminal switch is nearly impossible to find (it was discontinued several years ago), an inexpensive fix is to replace the four wire switch with a two wire SPST toggle switch. However, this means that either the fan function or the light function can be preserved- not both. I elected to keep the fan function, and simply wired the red & blue wires to the two terminals of a heavy duty replacement SPST toggle switch. Be sure to fully insulate the remaining (in this case) white and brown wires with electrical tape or wire nuts before tucking them below the new switch. Total cost: $6.00 for switch. NOTE: TURN OFF POWER TO RANGE AT ELECTRICAL PANEL BEFORE ATTEMPTING REPAIR!