Tightend chain without losening bar bolts and damaged the nut that pushes on the bar when you turn the tenioning screww.

A new chain will need frequent adjustment untill it is broken in. Hold the tip of the bar up when tighting the bar nuts

You start by slackening the bar nut/nuts so they are finger tight, there will then be an adjuster screw either between the bar nuts, or on the front of the saw level with the centre of the bar, turn the screw clockwise to increase the tenion on the chain, when you are happy with the tention re tighten the nut/nuts.

Start by removing the side cover held with one or two nuts ( make sure the chainbrake if fitted is de activated by pulling the hand guard fully back toward the rear of the saw until there is an audible click ) if the chain has de railed you need to check for damage to the drive links, file away any burs, or fit a new chain, screw the chain adjuster fully back, assemble the guide bar onto the bar bolts and push fully back toward the rear of the saw, loop the chain over the sprocket and into the guide bar rails with the cutter teeth on top of the bar facing away from the saw if the bar adjuster pawl is in the crankcase make sure it fits into the hole in the guide bar, assemble the side cover, if the adjuster pawl is in the cover make sure this lines up with the hole in the guide bar ( adjust the pawl screw if required ), assemble the bars nuts finger tight, now adjust the pawl screw so as the chain sits snuggley around the guide bar, pull the chain around the bar with a gloved hand to make sure it is sitting into the bar and sprocket correctly, lift the nose of the guide bar and tighten the bar nuts.

1. Turn off the saw and release the chain brake. The chain brake is the plastic handle located on the topside of the saw's body, and is between the bar and the throttle. With a gloved hand, spin the chain to ensure the brake is off.
   
2. Use the wrench to loosen the bar nuts until they are finger tight. Use the flathead screwdriver to loosen the bar tensioner screw. This screw is located in between the bar cover's two metal posts, and can be reached through the small, round hole in the cover's center.
   
3. Finish loosening the bar nuts and remove the bar cover. Take off the bar and chain; set them aside in a safe place.
   
4. Unplug the spark plug from the rubber spark plug connector, located on the top of the saw's body. Push some of the chainsaw's starter chord string into the spark plug cylinder to block the piston from moving while taking apart the clutch.
   
5. Remove the clutch assembly with the clutch socket wrench. Husqvarna chainsaw clutches are left-locking nuts, so you will need to turn the bolt clockwise to loosen it. Tap on the socket's handle with a hammer if the bolt won't loosen.
   
6. Remove the bolt and pull off the clutch cover, clutch spring and clutch drum. Replace these parts if they are chipped, warped or heavily worn.
   
7. Follow these steps in reverse order to reassemble the clutch.
   

Release the chain brake if equipped. Remove the drive end cover plate from the rear of the bar. Remove the bar and chain. Lay the chain out on a table or bench to inspect for sideways bending, breakage, or drive tooth damage. Inspect and clean the bar and it's oil passages in the drive end, particularly the small passages that run out to the chain groove from the large oil holes on each side. Inspect the drive sprocket for any tooth damage. Run the motor without the bar and chain for a few moments--oil should ooze out of a port on the side of the motor case where the bar fits to. If all ok, insert the bar into the space for it, pass the chain over the sprocket with the bottom run of teeth cutting toward you, and work the chain over the bar. Pull the bar outwards to tighten the chain, and fit the cover back in place (you may have to back off [CCW] the chain adjustment screw several turns). Fit clamp nut(s) (bolts) finger tight, then adjust the chain screw CW until the lower chain pulls up to the bar, but not so tight that the chain can't be moved by hand. Tighten the cover nuts and recheck chain tension. Make sure the chain is fully and carefully sharpened as a dull chain will quickly loosen due to heat and be thrown off again. Hope this helps!

Remove the drive end cover by removing the large nuts/bolts. Remove the bar and run the motor for a few moments, which should reveal oil oozing out of a side port where the bar fits. If ok, then spread out the chain so that it can be inspected for any damage that may have occurred. Check the bar itself for any damage. Clean all of the parts including the oil passages in the drive end of the bar and the entire chain groove. If there is a sprocket on the bar end, make sure it turns freely. Check the drive sprocket teeth for extreme wear or damage. If all ok, insert the bar and push it back toward the motor. Then thread the chain over the sprocket, then over the bar. Pull the bar out, replace the cover with mounting hardware finger tight and make sure the adjustment 'tang' fits into one of the large holes in the bar. The chain teeth need to cut toward you on the lower run of chain. Adjust the chain until the chain pulls up to the bar, but can be pulled by hand. Tighten the mounting hardware and recheck chain tension. Make sure the chain is properly sharpened. Hope this helps!

dont know if you already have an answer for this but... If you take off the chain guard (where the bar connects to the saw body) there should be 2 nuts in line with each other. Losen the nuts and pull the bar forward (away from the saw) and then retighten the nuts. You need to leave a slight belly of slack in the chain so it does not bind. Hope this helps. D

Make sure the chain brake is off (pull it toward you), then remove the bar mounting nut(s)/bolt(s) and the remove the side cover, bar, and chain. Clean the oil passages in the rear of the bar including two small passages that run from the larger holes out to the chain groove on each side. Clean the entire chain groove and make sure the end sprocket turns freely and is well oiled. Clean the engine face where the bar fits, then start the engine. Oil should ooze out of a small port in the engine case. If ok, then lay out the chain so that it can be inspected for bent links, dry/sticking joints, or missing/badly worn drive teeth. Inspect the sprocket on the clutch outer drum component for wear or damaged teeth. Make sure the pitch of the chain teeth match those of the drive sprocket (is this a new chain?). Check the hub bearing of the clutch drum for obvious wear. If all looks good, fit the chain around the clutch sprocket, then slip the bar into the the engine mounting space and work the chain over the entire bar. When setting the outer cover, make sure the adjuster tang fits into the related bar hole, then attach the clamp nut(s)/bolt(s), run up finger tight. Use the adjuster to set the chain tension--it should just pull the lower part of the chain up to the bar plus a little more. Check that you can move the chain by hand without any binding, then tighten the clamp bolts/nuts firmly. Recheck that the chain is properly tensioned. If not, re-loosen the clamp fasteners and re-tension the chain. When the clamp fasteners are tight, the tension must be rechecked. Hope this long-winded response helps!

Losen your lug nuts on both front tires and jack up the front end. You need to remove the calipers (the piece that holding the brake pads) Two bolts behind the caliper. Pop the the brake pads off and depress the brakes ( you will need a clamp to depress it) Put on the new brake pads. Tools needed : clamp, flat head screww driver, soket set, brake cleaner

Losen the bar mounting nut, then losen the chain tension adjustment screw until the chain can be reinstalled, then tighten the tension screw until the chain just sags 1/8" or so at the center of the bar then retighten the bar mounting nut.