Changing 5 orifices to convert from natural gas to lp but I can't see any indication on the burners as to which orifice goes where ??

Call Rheem
Generally the company does not support changing type of gas since propane burns much hotter and has more pressure than natural gas.
You need different gas control valve, and need cast iron burner and orifice than matches that specific gas control valve.
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/IMG_1826-LP-burner-450.jpg
http://waterheatertimer.org/Water-heater-manufacturers.html

Gene

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To convert a lincoln LP gas oven to a natural gas, you actually first of all need to buy from the supplier an orifice ment for natural gas and change. The difference in the orifices could be in the size of orifice aperture.
The orifice i'm talking about is located in the burner assembly. you got to dis assemble the burner so as to get to it.
After that you need to adjust the main gas manifold when the oven is on. The adjustment must be done such that the pilot flame is not yellowish

Unit goes under sure heat name also.
My unit emitted unburnt gas smell the minute pilot started,
and was annoying during burner operation.
I discovered they built unit with primary pilot that had 2 ports.
They used LP and sealed off natural gas,instead turning lp/nat
knob on back activates second pilot for natural gas use.
This means natural gas goes thru LP pilot orifice and burns
slightly off during normal natural gas use(by design).
The unused natural gas orifice has 1 air mix hole and the LP orifice
has 2 air mix holes.
I carefully plugged 1 of the holes in the LP orifice and suddenly
pilot gas flame seated correctly on orifice port.Gone was the
unburnt odor of natural gas.
The typical flame in a flame appearance now was exhibited by
the small pilot,secondary pilot remained consistent with manual
picture.
Of course, to use with LP I would have to open blocked air mix
hole in addition to the other changes per manual.
Hope this helps someone with similar condition.

Burner orifices must be resized or adjusted to accommodate higher pressure LP.
Air shutters should be opened all the way to allow maximum air to gas ration.

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I am having almost the same problem. Frigidaire told me to replace all 5 mixing tubes, ~$385, yeah right. They don't have the orifices itemized as an individual part, so no-one carries them, just the LP conversion kit. Another repair/parts guy advised me to drill out the orifices. Some other threads/blogs give the diameter to drill. Basically, since natural gas is 0.5 psi, you need a larger hole than your current propane orifices provide. Please speak up if you find out anything, I will try to do the same. Good luck.

Conversion is usually accomplished by flipping the regulator cap around. Nat side is hollow and LP is solid to hold the regulator open. The oven orifices are adjustable and the surface burnres can be either adjustable or have LP replacements.
Eric

Where do all orifices go on anything gas? Right there where the burner meets gas valve. The air shutter sits right in front of the orifice for proper air to gas ratio right.Go out and look at yer gas grill. Where the burners meet the gas valve ye shall find the orifice.



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This is the solution to convert from LP back to natural gas that I posted as a comment on this thread:
After much work and little help from Jenn-Air or Whirlpool, I found a satisfactory solution. As many of you may have found out, Whirlpool does not sell the natural gas orifices to the JDR8895AAS separately as they do the LP conversion orifices. Instead, they recommend that you buy all 5 orifice holders that include the individual orifices. This would run about $120-150 depending on where you shop. If you want to take this route, the Whirlpool parts you need are:
1x740079621x740078132x740079611x74007816
Fortunately, because natural gas is denser than LP, the LP orifices can be bored out for a conversion back to natural gas. After a lot of homework I was able to find someone with the natural gas orifices for this stove that let me take them out to measure them. For some crazy reason, Whirlpool does not have this information:
Find a machine shop or a good appliance repair shop that has a wire gauging bit set. The natural gas orifice hole sizes are as follows:
Left front burner (16K BTU): 48Left rear burner (9.2K BTU): 54Center burner (5K BTU): 58Right front burner (12.5K BTU): 52Right rear burnger (5K BTU): 58
It cost me $25 to have these resized after I found the correct hole size.
Finally, to complete the conversion back to natural gas, you must flip the plastic screw-shaped piece by unscrewing the hex nut on the regulator at the back of the stove.
Hope this helps, because it took me a while to figure it out.

In most cases the pressure regulator has to be changed or adjusted. The orfices on each burner, oven, broiler and surface burner may need to be changed also. Sometimes they can be adjusted. Sometimes the threads on the pipe are different also. This is to prevent accidental connection to the wrong fuel. The big difference is the gas pressure. LP is usually around 10 - 12 lbs and natural gas is usually around 3 lbs. Properly adjusted you will like natural gas much better than LP as it is slightly hotter. The information will be in the instruction book and also on the Jenn air web site. Whirlpool owns both Maytag and Jenn aire so check all sites. The conversion kit is usually less than $50.