Veiwfinder & lcd panel

Hi, Component input connectors use the colour convention
Green = Y (luminance signal)
Red = Pr or Cr (Red colour difference signal)
Blue = Pb or Cb (Blue colour diffrence signal)

Composite input connectors use the colour convention
Yellow = CVBS (composite video, blanking, sync)
Red = Audio Right
White = Audio Left

for compatibility both units will need to have matching colours. note the component inputs do not have audio and as such will also have a set of red & white connectors for use with the audio signals too ( rule of thumb Component = 5 connectors, composite=3 connectors)

turn TV on, let the Tv cycle through the three colours, then using the remote press the menu button followed by the standby button. press standby button again and it all comes up working.

andy

Are you using component video?

If the Green (Y) provides Luminance, Red (Pr) and Blue (Pb) are the colour bands. If only the Blus is pluged in then you will have a blue-green screen. If you have the Blue and Red switched then you will have weird colour aswell.

If you are using HDMI then unplug and re-plug the connectors.

You have to option in LCD Source In-Put.All LCD Have this In-Put
Com posit-Yellow/Red/White (AV)
In LCD Select AV Mode After That Connect Yellow /Red/White as per color pin given in your LCD.
Component-Green/Blue/Red
If you have Component in put in your LCD than select from source component mode for Red/Blue/Green.

the light filter on the blue lcd is fried and needs to be replaced. it makes sure only blue light comes therough that lcd panel. when it's light is blocked from coming through, only the red and green lights can be seen, hence the yellowness (red light+green light=yellow light). it's common with lcd projectors. unfortunately, you can't buy that piece seperately. you need to buy the entire optical engine, which isn't cheap (almost $2000).

There should be colour settings under the "picture" tab in the menu. In the colour settings you can change the level of green, blue and red (the 3 that make white) Here you can scale the green back to make it closer to equal with blue and red

some cameras have the choice to take the picture by looking through the veiwfinder or on the LCD screen. check in the menu and set it to LCD if you want to use the LCD

I took it back and got a full refund.

A DMD has no inherent colour capability - it's just a configurable mirror array. If you want to do full-colour projection, then, you'd expect that you'd have to use three DMDs and three coloured filters - red, green and blue.
But if a single DMD's switched in synchrony with a rotating "colour wheel" - a spinning tri-colour filter that lets through red, green and blue light in turn - then the very rapid switching speed of the DMD lets it lay down red, green and blue images in such fast succession that the result is a perfect colour image.
You can do the same trick with a single LCD panel, but it's not a good idea; LCDs are transmissive, rather than reflective, devices, and block something like half of the light that tries to get through them. To maximise brightness in LCD projectors, a three-panel design works better. If you try to pump the entire output of a super-bright lamp through one LCD, keeping it cool becomes rather challenging.
The extreme smallness of the moving parts on a DMD mean that it behaves like a solid state device, not a mechanical one. For all their complexity, DMDs have very high Mean Time Between Failures (MTBF), and well-made projectors based on DMDs can be expected to last easily as long as LCD units, and probably longer. If a DLP projector fails, it's not at all likely to be because there's something wrong with the DMD.

Try pulling out the eyepiece, it will reveal a switch that controls the focus, it maybe the problem, good luck