On switch I have 3 pieces I can't figure out how they go together. The on switch, little metal spring and the level that it connects to. I need a picture to show me how it attaches. Thank You, Sean.

There are two pieces of metal that are inserted into the hinge slots on the body of the oven, the spring (upper) and the hinge. Before you can re-install the door, you have to clip these two together by laying the door handle side down and then using all of your body weight to push down on the spring arm, using gloves and a wadded up rag to soften the impact to your hands, and then clip the two pieces of metal together using the little hinged clip on the hinge piece and the slot on the spring piece. When you've clipped these together on both sides, lift the door and insert the metal pieces into the two respective metal slots on either side of the oven body. when they're in as far as you can push them, use a flat edged screwdriver to release the clip and close the door. Good luck, it may take a couple of tries and be careful of the spring, because it can snap back and hurt you if the clip comes off prematurely.

This is for assembling the Breville Wok lid. This has a built in vent that lets steam escape during cooking. There are 8 pieces not including the glass cover: bolt, metal vent, black O ring, tan round plastic piece, black lid piece (has open/close) on it, spring, clear plastic seal, lid handle.
Order of assembly as follows, starting on inside of glass cover.1. Bolt.2. Metal vent piece sits on top of bolt.3. Black O ring fits snuggly onto of vent piece.Insert what you have assembled against inside of glass cover, bolt poking through topside of glass.4. Add tan plastic piece with 3 prongs going facedown against the glass hole of cover.5. Larger black lid piece goes next. You will need to line up the openings on tan piece and this lid piece so that it sits semi-flush against glass. When complete this piece will turn in place to open/close vent (less than 1/4 turn before stopping).6. Add clear plastic seal to underside of handle.7. Place spring between handle and top of black lid piece and screw together until snug.
Test lid by turning lid piece. It should move back and forth according to the open/close print on top. If no luck, go to step 5 and try again. It is a little tricky, but does work when done correctly.

1. have a small screwdriver set

2. are handy putting little delicate plastic pieces and springs together again

3. are prepared to face the possibility that you might break the shaver entirely

4. you are out of warranty so you don't care if you invalidate it

THE PROBLEM is caused by a small flat metal assembly that acts as a spring to hold the blue button in place. That is held by 4 small glue posts. The glue breaks down, the flat spring falls out of place and the blue button is no long in the right place.

TO OPEN UP THE SHAVER

a. gently remove the plastic cover around the electrical socket underneath, using a small flathead screwdriver to pry it open

b. the two metallic sides of the shaver can be pulled away starting at the bottom of the shaver

c. uncrew the four screws on the underside of the shaver

d. remove cutter block, battery/lcd block (make sure you don't lose the grommet around the lcd display

e. pull the spring and little plastic latch off the underside of the switch, make sure you remember how to put it back (took me almost 20 mins to figure out how to get that back afterwards)

f. slide the switch all the way up and pull it off the slide - you might need a little gentle force and a flathead screwdriver to coax it off - be careful you don't break anything here

g. remove the trimmer from the rest of the switch

h. put the blue piece back in place (mine had fallen out), then glue the flat metal spring back in place. I smeared brush-on crazy glue on the flat surfaces to hold it in place, I would imagine a four drops of reasonably strong glue on each of the glue posts would work best. Wait for the glue to dry and achieve strength.

i. slide the trimmer back into place, then the plastic latch and spring - this is the tricky part. Make sure the switch can slide on/off in all positions properly.

j. put the display/battery & cutter block back in place. put the back of the shaver on, hold the shaver together with your fingers and test the switch works in all positions without jamming. If so put the four screws back, followed by the metallic sides followed by the plastic cover of the electrical socket.

GOOD LUCK!! Was this helpful? Yes No 4 people thought this was helpful

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1. 
   • davjones101
   • 1 minute ago
   Thanks ,very helpful. Let me just add a vital bit of information On removing front assembly, to remove sliding switch and access spring clip under blue button you have to release locking clip (it's like a long sprung piece of plastic) from LH side by just pushing it to the right with a fine screwdriver etc. It's concealed under another piece of plastic. I also removed inward facig lug on shaver body (under slider) as this snags the metal spring when refixed

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very simple to fix it 1 pull the trigger all the way out 2 there is a little piece of metal, pull it all the way out (detach the piece out from the gun) an connect one side of the spring 3 push the piece back on the gun. 4 on the other side of the spring tide a little fishing line 5 pass the fishing line over a small rounded piece and pull it hard 6 finally connect the side of the spring onto a little hock on the base of the trigger

I had the same problem. I had to take it apart and rewind it manually. To do this:
Step 1:
There are 4-bolts to remove on the orange plastic section the screw into the motor housing (one of them is hidden inside the orange plastic housing, you'll see an opening for it). There are also 3 screws in the black plastic exhaust housing that screw into the orange plastic housing, find those and remove.

Step 2:
Carefully remove the engine from the plastic housing. I didn't disconnect the throttle cable or the electric wires (points) just kind of worked around them.

Step 3:
The mechanism is kind of crappy. There are two black pieces with a spring in the middle, and a metal disc on the bottom with a ribbon coil on the underside of it. The top plastic piece is what turns the flywheel when you pull the cord. The spring in between connects the two plastic piece. This is probably what popped out. There is a piece sticking up on one end, which inserts into the hole in the top black plastic piece. If you remove the little guardrail things you can probably remove just that piece. KEEP TENSIONS ON THE PULL CORD. Once you remove that top black piece, it should start to recoil.

Step 4:
If it did recoil, put the spring back in the top plastic piece, and then put the plastic/spring combo back into the the bottom plastic piece, there is a little groove for the bottom of the spring to slide into. Then put the little guardrail screws back on. Make sure the big metal wire thing hasn't slipped down into the shaft of the weed whacker. That needs to go back into the motor, as it is what gets spun and in turn spins the strings. As you start to put the motor back in, you may have to pull on the pull cord a few times to get the flywheel and plastic piece to line up. Once you hear the motor start to catch, then you should be able to wiggle it back into place and put back all of the screws. Then give it a shot. If it pulls out again, you may have to drill a new hole into the top black plastic piece for that spring to slide into (this is the crappy design part).

Step 5:
If the pull cord didn't retract, you need to remove the other two pieces (lower black plastic piece and metal disc with ribbon). The metal ribbon has a nub on the outside that hooks onto a plastic piece in the bottom of the orange plastic housing. You'll need to wind it around once or twice to "charge" the ribbon, then wind the string back on the black plastic piece. The black piece should slide into the center of the metal disc and catch the inside of the ribbon. Once you get these two together, again, make sure the metal ribbon piece is wound once past normal and then you have to slide both parts together down into the housing catching the metal ribbon loop over the orange plastic nub. It's tricky, it took me a few tries. Once you get that you can try and test the pull cord, you'll see it pull out and feel it retract due to that metal ribbon. Then go back and do step 4, where you put the upper black plastic piece with spring back into place and replace the little metal guardrails.

This whole thing took a few tries, and the pull cord still gets stuck out. It's a major pain to say the least, but after the 5th time fixing it, you'll be a real pro.

No official B&D diagram, but userLovenheim from http://www.fixya.com/ posted his/her own picture which I'm posting here:

1) Stack the trigger, seer (long black metal piece) and trigger block (large L shaped silver piece) on top of each other, with the seer in the middle.

2) You should have 3 springs, the long one attached to the end of the seer, the skinny one on the bottom of the seer and the fat one back between the trigger and trigger block on the back side

3) Compress the trigger block and the trigger together thus compressing that spring between them, keeping everything together. Now back the entire unit into the stock cavity. This is tricky and will take some practice. Be sure to keep the pieces squeezed together.

4) Insert the pin through the side which is countersunk. It only goes one way.

The glass tube is the fuse. There should be a spring and threaded metal barrel with a metal tip that slides through it. Look for these (4) parts.

The spring goes in first, followed by the glass fuse and then the metal tip should pass through the metal barrel. Screw the metal barrel with the tip on the end over the fuse. When you press on the tip, it should push in a little and spring back out. If you lost the pieces, you'll need to purchase another charger.

- Jim
SHARCNET-USA

Managed to fix it - actually was a 7680. Only do this if you:

1. have a small screwdriver set

2. are handy putting little delicate plastic pieces and springs together again

3. are prepared to face the possibility that you might break the shaver entirely

4. you are out of warranty so you don't care if you invalidate it

THE PROBLEM is caused by a small flat metal assembly that acts as a spring to hold the blue button in place. That is held by 4 small glue posts. The glue breaks down, the flat spring falls out of place and the blue button is no long in the right place.

TO OPEN UP THE SHAVER

a. gently remove the plastic cover around the electrical socket underneath, using a small flathead screwdriver to pry it open

b. the two metallic sides of the shaver can be pulled away starting at the bottom of the shaver

c. uncrew the four screws on the underside of the shaver

d. remove cutter block, battery/lcd block (make sure you don't lose the grommet around the lcd display

e. pull the spring and little plastic latch off the underside of the switch, make sure you remember how to put it back (took me almost 20 mins to figure out how to get that back afterwards)

f. slide the switch all the way up and pull it off the slide - you might need a little gentle force and a flathead screwdriver to coax it off - be careful you don't break anything here

g. remove the trimmer from the rest of the switch

h. put the blue piece back in place (mine had fallen out), then glue the flat metal spring back in place. I smeared brush-on crazy glue on the flat surfaces to hold it in place, I would imagine a four drops of reasonably strong glue on each of the glue posts would work best. Wait for the glue to dry and achieve strength.

i. slide the trimmer back into place, then the plastic latch and spring - this is the tricky part. Make sure the switch can slide on/off in all positions properly.

j. put the display/battery & cutter block back in place. put the back of the shaver on, hold the shaver together with your fingers and test the switch works in all positions without jamming. If so put the four screws back, followed by the metallic sides followed by the plastic cover of the electrical socket.

GOOD LUCK!!

Managed to fix it - actually was a 7680. Only do this if you:

1. have a small screwdriver set

2. are handy putting little delicate plastic pieces and springs together again

3. are prepared to face the possibility that you might break the shaver entirely

4. you are out of warranty so you don't care if you invalidate it

TO OPEN UP THE SHAVER

a. gently remove the plastic cover around the electrical socket underneath, using a small flathead screwdriver to pry it open

b. the two metallic sides of the shaver can be pulled away starting at the bottom of the shaver

c. uncrew the four screws on the underside of the shaver

d. remove cutter block, battery/lcd block (make sure you don't lose the grommet around the lcd display

e. pull the spring and little plastic latch off the underside of the switch, make sure you remember how to put it back (took me almost 20 mins to figure out how to get that back afterwards)

f. slide the switch all the way up and pull it off the slide - you might need a little gentle force and a flathead screwdriver to coax it off - be careful you don't break anything here

g. remove the trimmer from the rest of the switch
GOOD LUCK!!