Replacing a single pole switch with a Leviton decora motion sensor switch do both black wires from original switch connect to black wire of new switch and white wire to red wire

Leviton PR180 is a single-pole or 3-way motion activated light switch.
Resources:
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpItmDspRte.jsp?item=452283§ion=10892&minisite=10026

The green connects to bare ground wire.
The yellow-red is not used EXCEPT to replace 3-way switch. Cap off yellow-red wire when wiring single-pole.

Your single pole switch has two black wires.
One black wire is Hot from breaker, and the other black wire goes to Load.
Turn power on, and test each black wire to bare copper wire. Tester lights up on Hot wire.

Hot wire connects to PR180 black wire.
Load wire connects to RR180 red wire

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Wiring is unclear without more information.

Question posted under 4-way switch.
Wiring sounds like 3-way switch is possible.
And Leviton 5601 is single pole switch.

Add a comment and say what load the switch controls. Load means light, fan, motor, etc.
Say if another switch controls same load.
And include what type of device you are replacing.
Include what screws and screw colors are on old device.

When you add a comment, it sends email, and I will respond to comment.

Open following link to see illustration:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Single-pole-switches-in-4-gang.jpg

Each residential electric box has 1 hot wire. This wire should be black.
Hot wire carries power from the breaker box.
Use tester and find hot wire.

Each device in box connects to the black hot wire using short jumper wires.

Outlets: Hot wire connects to brass colored screw.
Single-pole switches: Hot wire connects to either brass-colored screw.

Neutral wires are usually white, and are twisted together.
Neutral wires connect directly to silver screw on each outlet.

Wire going to lights connects to other brass screw on each switch.

In addition to the black, red, green, and yellow/red wires on the switch, there should also be a white wire or terminal marked WH. The black wire on the switch connects to the incoming black wire (line in or hot) inside the switch box. The red wire on the switch connects to the outgoing black wire (to the load) inside the switch box. The green connects to the bare wires inside the switch box. The yellow/red is not used in a single pole application such as yours. The two white wires inside the switch box are twisted together and _also_ connected to the WH terminal (or white wire) on the switch.

This should replace any existing single pole (one location) switch. You have two wires on the pir, black and blue and then the ground. The black hooks to the hot or common wire. It may be black, but it will be the hot wire. The blue wire hooks to the wire going to the light. The ground hooks to the green or bare.

1) First of all you need to determine what device you are replacing. Single-pole or 3-way.
Add a comment any time

Remember you can also take advantage of fixya phone service, where expert speaks to you over the phone while you are installing device. This service is not free.

2) If you are replacing single-pole switch, that is where one switch controls the Load (light fan motor)
Here are instructions for installing ipp15-11 Motion switch for single-pole replacement.
Old switch has 2 insulated wires plus bare ground wire.
Ipp15 bare copper ground wire will connect to bare copper ground wire.

Separate switch wires for testing.
Use ordinary two prong tester, tape tester leads to wood sticks to keep hands away from power.
Turn power ON.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to ipp15 screw marked BL black.
The other wire that came off switch will connect to ipp15 screw marked RD red
Hot wire is identified.
Located in back of box are white wires that are twisted together and covered with wire nut. Remove this nut.
Now test Hot wire to all other wires in box, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral wires. ipp15 screw marked WH white connects to neutral wires.
If your box does not have neutral wire, then connect ipp15 WH white to bare ground wires.

4) If you are replacing 3-way switch, that is where 2 different switches control the same Load (light fan motor.
3-way switch has 3 insulated wires and a bare ground wire.
Note screw colors on old 3-way switch. Dark screw is the Load wire. The 2 brass screws are the travelers.
From the ipp15 instructions, it appears you will need Viza Coordinating Switch Remote plus a sensor device to accomplish the 3-way installation.
If you have both of these devices and want free written instructions, then add a comment and I will verbalize contents from the manual.
Also you can pay a fixya expert to talk over the phone.

5) Leviton also offers technical assistance at 1-800-824-3055

Electrician test wiring before connecting anything.
First of all, you don't mention what type of switch was replaced.

1) Leviton 6230 countdown timer is made to replace single-pole light switch only.
Single pole is where 1 switch controls the Load (light fan motor)

Your wiring sounds like 3-way switch.
3-way is where 2 switches control same Load.
For example a hallway usually has 3-way switches.

To confirm. If old switch has 1 dark screw, 2 brass screws, and 1 green screw, then that is 3-way switch. Use Leviton LTB15, LTB30, LTB60, LTB02, LTB12 countdown timer for 3-way.
Smarthome sells product and shows .pdf manual
http://www.smarthome.com/4255/Leviton-LTB60-1LZ-4-Button-10-20-30-60-Minute-Countdown-Timer-Switch/p.aspx


2) If old switch has 2 brass screws and 1 green screw then that is single-pole switch.

3) If you are replacing single-pole switch, here are testing & wiring instructions for Leviton timer.
Remove device and separate wires for testing.
Use ordinary two wire tester.
Tape tester leads to wood sticks so hands are away from power.
Do not untwist wires that were twisted together before you started.
Turn on power.
Test each wire to bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on Hot wire. This wire will connect to timer black wire.
Now you know Hot wire.
Test Hot wire to each of the other wires, excluding bare ground wire.
Tester lights up on neutral. Timer white wire connects to Neutral wire.
If box does not contain Neutral wire, then timer white wire connects to bare ground.

Timer green wire connects to bare ground wire.
Timer red wire connects to wire going to Load.

Leviton manuals:
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCCtpSctDspRte.jsp?section=17219&minisite=10022

A quick peek inside a sample Leviton manual confirms that your wires are connect correct - BUT...
http://waterheatertimer.org/pdf/Leviton-motion-Instructions.pdf

The remaining 3-way switch needs a jumper wire.
See if your instruction manual shows the same thing as image below.
Let's go through this.
The yellow wire connects to a traveler ... and that traveler connects to one of the brass screws on 3-way switch.
The black wire from Motion sensor also connects to a traveler wire ... BUT you have to identify which traveler wire and which brass screw that traveler wire connects to. And then, put a jumper wire (a short piece of wire) from that brass screw to the dark-colored screw.
I think that will do it.
Add a comment if your device is different.


Some of these electronic devices are reversed when two of their wires are connected together.
That's what the jumper wire is doing. So the 3-way switch is just connecting and disconnecting the black and yellow wires, and that action reverses the circuit in the motion device.

One black is will hook up to one of the black wires inside the switch box in the wall and the other will hook to the other black wire in the box, The green will connect to the bare copper wire which is the ground wire.

This is a single pole light switch and should be wired as any other SP switch. The only difference is that is has a pilot light. All the white neutral wires are tied together and then pushed back in the box with none connected to the switch. The grounds are tied together with a jumper wire connected to the green screw on the switch. That will leave you with 2 or more black wires. If you have just two normally you can connect them to the two screws on the switch and it does not matter which screws. However it may be that with the pilot light you need to connect the wire going to the light to the top screw and the power wire to the bottom or vice versa. Try both ways. If you have more than 2 black wires you need to connect the incoming power black wire and outgoing power black wires together and then jump to one of the screws on the switch. The black wire left over is the black wire going to the light itself. If none of this works then it is obvious the pilot light in the switch is burnt out.