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The igniter module is working fine. One of the switches (which are on each valve shaft) is stuck or shorted out. Pull a wire off each one at a time to determine which one is bad. Careful! 120 volts to each wire. Also, this can happen after you spill water into the valve area, if that sounds right, let it dry out.
the very first thing i would do here is to check the ignitor itself
under the head cap you should see two screws, once those are out you will be able to lift the burner plate, lift the burner plate, you will see, or should see the ignitor, and the wire.
i check this for voltage by unplugging the ignitor and olding the wire close to a ground, the metal body is good. Turn on the ignitor, becareful it is live. yhou shgould see a spark comming from the wire
if not check to make sure that wire is in position and on the spark module
if you do see a spark this way, just order the replacement ignitor
and install it when it arrives
appliancepartspros.com
part number AP3191250
After in detail troubleshouting and cleaning all gas passage of the cooktop and checking if no pessages are blocked,I myself went looking to the pressure regulator just after the gas bottles. After making some adjustment to this pressure regulator, the cooktop light up again. So problem is solved.
Remove all the burner heads and lift the top. Sometimes easier said than done. How do you know it is the module? It could be a cracked insulator on the ignitor. To verify you can swap two of the connections on the module and if it lights then it is the module. eric
Did you just clean it? If the swiches under the burner knobs get wet, they cause the electrodes to click. Unplug the unit or turn off the braker for a day. it should dry up and work normal.
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