This may or may not have anything to do with it however I have the same engine on my Cub Cadet Enforcer and what I found to be the problem was a wire to the saftey switch under the seat had broken. This made it sound like an engine problem by making and breaking contact as I was mowing. My first thought was a fuel filter stopped up as it was sounding like it wasn't getting fuel because it was OK when I was stopped and the engine wasn't loaded.
SOURCE: My 23 hp Kawasaki engine
When it begins to stall, loosen the gas cap. If performance improves, clear the gas cap vent holes.
Gary
SOURCE: my kawasaki 23 hp model
hi there
if you had the carby off and cleaned it out , was the fuel flow from tank to fuel pump ( if it has one ) good , and was the output from pump to carb good on cranking?
if so and the breather in cap is venting , it could be that the governor needs adjusting, possibly have got a spring in the incorrect position and there is no binding , pay to check , carby main jet closly for any obstruction. check the fuel level and float hieght .
most times hunt / surge is caused by obstruction to fuel flow , or governor
try holding the governor in a fixed position if hunt / surge still apparent - carby is causing fault
but if not governor setup is causing problem
cheers pauly46
SOURCE: 21 hp kawasaki stalls and
Seems odd that after changing carbs you have this symptom but a dirty air cleaner or restiction in the air intake ducting can cause this. I note you said you changed the air filter(s). I am assuming you changed both the paper and foam filters. My thoughts are maybe there is some gasket material partially blocking the intake under the carb so when under load it is acting like the Choke is on. (
Before you go lifting off the carb.. a partially engaged choke valve will do the same thing. It will run just fine at low speeds or little load but when you put a heavy load it will choke out / get too much fuel.
Last thing that can cause the engine to act really weird is that the gas cap is vented and if the vent is clogged in the gas cap it will cause very unstable operation of the engine at higher rpms.
Your engine service manual is here:
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/images/manuals/FH641-Service.pdf
Carb informationis in section 2 - 8
I reommend you inspect
- the tank cap (no plastic bag in place of the rubber under the gas cap to prevent the tank from leaking)
- the choke linkage and position of choke valve (Off or partially on?)
- screen if any under the air filter (Thinking out of the box... what if the air filter is being drawn against the air cleaner / filter housing causing a choke situation under load)
Don't do this for very long but try a high load test with the air filters removed.
One last dumb thought is... the fuel pump is ported to the engine crank case breather. If the diaphragm fails it can put fuel in the oil which will cause the oil level to rise due to the added gas and then end up over pressurizing the crank case. (You said you changed the oil.. and I would think the oil level is still the same as it was post oil change.)
Those are my thoughts and recommendations for the moment. If anything else come to mind I will send you another post.
If you have questions feel free to ask. I wll tell you that I am using the service manual and my 40 + years of experience to help you.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly
SOURCE: my 23 hp kawasaki randomly wont start i spray
Sounds like you will need to clean your carburetor.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor a few times, and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor,or as directed in the repair instructions.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple years old, then I also recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, You will first seat the jet screws.
You will need to count the number of turns it takes to seat the jets from their original position and mark it down for later reference.
That way when you go to put the jets back in, you know how many turns they were in/out to be back in their orginal position.
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