The unit worked fine for 3-4 months.Now,it just gives a reading of 0 ft. with the water temperature. Once in a while while i'm drifting it will give me a depth for a few seconds and go back to a 0 depth reading.The unit also appears to be showing a randon bottom contour.

I have a recurring problem with a GE Profile PSB48LSRABV. Here's an example sequence:

• Fresh food compartment set to 37F on the control panel (for months)
• Thermometer in fridge reads 46F (with lots of water inside per manual)
• Press "Display Temp" button, display shows fridge at 37F
• Turn power off, count to 15, turn power on, wait for control panel to boot
• Press "Display Temp" button, display shows fridge at 46F (matches thermometer!)
• Compressor runs and cools fresh food compartment
• Hours later thermometer in fridge reads 37-38 (yeah!)
• Press "Display Temp" button shows fridge at 37F
• Within days, the fridge is warmer inside again, thermometer inside reads 45+, but display reads 37 - unit needs to be "rebooted" again!

Fresh food thermistor from top of cabinet measured properly in ice water (and warmer water), the unit has always passed all the self-tests, and condensor coils and fan are clean, so I had techs come give it a shot under home warranty:

• Trip 1 - Tech came to assess, ordered new evaporator fan
• Trip 2 - Replaced fresh food evaporator fan (note new fan is working in fridge, and old fan works fine on bench)
• Trip 3 - Ordered main computer PCBA
• Trip 4 - Replaced main computer PCBA

Unfortunately, it continues the same cycle of misreading the temperature until power cycles, and taking a day off of work for each visit is getting painful.
Any ideas?

You are drifting? In current? Then your relative speed in relation to the current is approximately zero.

Hi,

The unit has to cycle or it will freeze up, so to control the temperature this unit must cycle on and off. This is normal for all refrigeration units. If your temps are holding meaning that don't recover then the unit will need some attention. Sounds like your unit based on your information given is working properly. Good Luck

I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

is the unit on auto depth .... if out of water it will not read try to do a soft reboot on your unit if that don't work try new transducer your not getting bottom lock..units in limbo don't know what to do

Could you please describe the problem you are having a little better please?

More then likely the sending unit is faulty, but to be safe hook up a mechanical test gage at the oil pressure sender port and check oil pressure hot engine, if it is steady then replace the sending unit.

After I have been reading up on your unit it appears that the thermostat is not operating correctly. I found this real basic information on installation for your unit. This link I am giving is pretty basic instal schematics. But seems to be something about your thermostat needs to be dialed in or is not working properly.

http://www.premsales.net/docs/GE/GE%20Minisplits.pdf

I hope this helps some. Mike

Try this first:

Self Diagnostics

To enter Self Diagnostic mode, both temperature control panel displays must be illuminated. A display can be illuminated by pressing an adjacent temperature adjustment button. When both displays are illuminated, set the freezer and refrigerator temperature settings to 5. Simultaneously press and hold all

4 temperature adjustment buttons for approximately 3 seconds. A flashing 0 in the refrigerator and freezer displays will indicate that the refrigerator is in Self Diagnostic mode.

For temperature control panels with single-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test. Press the HOLD button for 3 seconds to begin the test.

For temperature control panels with 3-digit displays, the COLDER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers down and the WARMER temperature adjustment button will increment the numbers up. Use the freezer temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in the freezer display. Use the refrigerator temperature adjustment buttons to enter the test code number in

the refrigerator display. When a test code has been entered, the displays will flash to confirm the test

code. Press any button other than a temperature adjust button to begin the test.

When testing has been completed, do one of the following things:

• Enter code 1 5 to completely reset the system.

• Enter code 1 6 to exit diagnostic mode. The temperature control panel is reset automatically.

• Unplug the refrigerator for at least 10 seconds. Test mode will terminate when the refrigerator is plugged back in.
Test mode will terminate automatically after 15 minutes of inactivity.

You need to cycle your freezer display to indicate 0 and your refrigerator display to 7.

Control and Sensor System Self-Test (0 7)

This test checks all five thermistors located throughout the unit. Once the test is initiated, the test code (0 7) will stop flashing and the thermistor test results will appear on the freezer display in the test order listed below. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display.

If the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option, the third thermistor (quick chill) will display a 0 and 3 audible beeps will sound at the temperature control panel. This is not a failure if the unit is not equipped with the Quick Chill option.

Thermistor test results:

• P = Pass

• 0 = Failed

• S = Short to 5 VDC

• B = Bad amplifier

Thermistor test sequence is:

1. Fresh food top thermistor

2. Fresh food bottom thermistor

3. Quick chill thermistor (displays 0 if unit is not equipped with Quick Chill option)

4. Evaporator thermistor

5. Freezer thermistor

Note: Thermistor test results will be displayed in the sequence shown above. The thermistor test sequence number will not be shown on the display.

Note the failures if any. Should ANY of thermistors fail you must replace it.

Having said that... at this point your stick with doing a manual defrost by unplugging the unit and directing a fan into the compartment for just over 2 hours to make sure ALL of the ice on the coils and in the drains has melted. (Yes it makes a water mess!)

After the manual defrost restart the unit / plug it in and once the compressor starts listen for the evaporator fan when the door switch is actuated and the condenser fan in the bottom of the unit any time the compressor is running. If either of the fans are not running you must find out why. Can be a door switch, motor winding or power to the motor. The door switch does not affect the condenser fan.

Finally if the unit is not automatically defrosting due to a component failure... i.e

Heater, themistor, or wiring you will see ice build up again in 2 to 3 days again and you will have to keep going through the manual defrosting routine until the automatic defrosting problem is resolved.

Thanks for choosing FixYa.

Kelly

Only two possible sources for a leak one is an ice maker, the other is defrost drain water. Either way it is only 9 months old and still under full warranty!! Call sears and have them come and look at it! I have seen a few of these units with cracked drain pans so be persistent if the tech cannot find a leak, have him pour some water into the pan to see if there is a crack.
good luck and save yourself some stress.. You have a warranty to cover this:)

I had the same problem and got the transducer changed. It now works perfectly. That could be the problem you are having... bad transducer.