The back of the new dryer has a foam like pad glued to it, do I remove this before use or does it have a function?

The fabric and foam are one piece, it is then glued to the cardboard backing and that just site in the roof, no attachment needed.

What kind of backing DOES it have. The fabric of the headliner cannot simply be glued to the roof frame. GM used a foam shell on many of its vehicles. Removal of the headliner must be done carefully to avoid breakage of the shell, although a small crack or two often is of no significance. Remove the old fabric by peeling it off the shell. This will usually leave a lot of the foam padding still clinging to the hard foam shell. This can be removed fairly easy with a vegetable brush, being careful not to gouge into the hard foam shell. There will still be a slight residue of the padding on the shell, but this is not a problem. At a fabric center, purchase a sufficient size piece of headliner fabric in a color that complements your interior. Ask the salesperson there to assist you in selecting the correct spray adhesive for the job. Dry fit the new headliner to the shell, leaving some extra on all sides that will be trimmed later. Fold back one half of the headliner fabric and apply the adhesive to both the shell and the back of the headliner fabric. Wait the specified time for the adhesive to prep, then, with assistance (its easier), roll the headliner back to the shell, ensuring no gaps or bubbles. Once you complete one half, fold back the other half and repeat. Cut any access holes needed (dome light, sun visor). Trim excess to edge of shell. Do not wrap the headliner around the side edges or it will not reinstall correctly. You may need to wrap the front and rear edges depending upon the trim on your interior. The edges will be hidden by the door and window trim. Reinstall shell.

Are you doing this because it has come loose and hangs down? If so, be aware that the problem is the cardboard underneath was made with a foam layer then the cloth was glued to that. As the foam degrades, it allows the cloth to separate. The cheap (and sometimes not perfect) fix is too carefully peel the cloth away, starting at the worst area, scrape the loose foam out some, and spray headliner glue on both the cloth and cardboard backing, allow to dry for 5 or ten minutes, and press the cloth carefully into place. This can be messy and result in some wrinkles, but the alternative is to pay $100 or more for a real replacement. The glue is available at most auto parts stores.

For my Frigidaire manufactured Kenmore dryer, the stainless steel drum is part ordinary painted steel (front flange). That flange is part of the suspension for the drum. The flange rides on a nylon wear pad above the door. On both sides of the pad, there is a felt that is glued to the dryer front panel to act as a seal. What happens is that the paint on the ordinary steel flange rubs through and rusts, staining clothes during the drying cycle. I have to replace the nylon pad and felts every few years to combat the rusting issue. The felt and nylong pad assembly is glued to the cabinet flange using heat resistant adhesive.

You could probably take the side closest to the sagging down and spray the ceiling with adhesive and then press it back up. That would probably be the cheapest bet. An auto detailing shop might also be able to do it for you if you don't feel comfortable doing it yourself.


The headliners in these cars all come down sooner or later. The headliner in my 1979 Sedan deVille is finally starting to come loose and I'm dreading doing a replacement because my Burnished Gold interior color will likely be challenging to match correctly. The headliner fabric comes loose because the fabric is glued to thin foam. The foam disintegrates over time and the fabric comes loose as a result. Gluing the existing headliner fabric back to the old broken down foam underneath will never correct the problem. The only way to fix it is to remove the old headliner and replace with a new one.


Check here this procedure guide (as reference): tutorials/cadillac-fleetwood

Hope helps.

I inserted a screwdriver in a slot of the holder and unsrewed it, counterclockwise. I could not find a replacement so i glued it back on.

If you try carefully removing the foam ear pad you might be lucky enough to find that the speaker plate is screwed to the backing cup. I hope this is true in your case. Some of them are just glued together. Hope this helps.

Use 2.5" plastic pipe & elbow to replace aluminum elbow & hose with spring inside. Air velocity is higher, lint blows out without collecting.
I used wood router to remove part of exhaust connector on rear of dryer to better fit elbow. Elbow interior was smoothed to prevent lint sticking. Elbow was mounted with silicone sealant and 2 screws. Pipe was glued to elbow as normal glued pipe connection. Pipe end was cut even with side of dryer.
After Spendide was installed in RV, a union was stuck in from outside RV. Union slides on to pipe without sealant so Splendide can be removed from RV. Union better fills outside vent fitting than bare 2.5" plastic pipe. Temporary seal aroung union was made of urethane foam scraps, common shipping stuff from a computer monitor box. After 2 years of temporary, the foam is now considered permanent.
Original problem was constant lint problems in hose and slow drying. With pipe, not hose, lint is rarely cleaned and drying is much faster.

Interior light bulb is located behind the grill, above door. It requires removing 3 or 4 screws to remove grill. I have same problem. I pulled out bulb, it looks like it was glued in some type of foam material. There are two pin connectors at the mounting. but I can't see how they fit into bulb.

Hello himsmyboy!

Sikna says

The ADF separation pad is the cause. To remove it lift the cover fully up then use a knife to get under the black tape tab at the top right of the large white foam pad. Pull the tape and the white foam pad loose but not completely - leave the bottom attached. Now you can see the ADF separation pad from below. Use a small screwdriver or spring hook to remove the spring and you will be able to wiggle the ADF separation pad out. First take a good look at how it fits in so you can put it back! The problem is caused by the small black foam pad under the white rubbery tape on the ADF pad assembly. I carefully removed the tape from the back edge to expose the compressed black foam pad. I then cut a matching size of 1/16" foam I had in my shop which was actually HP 98A doctor blade seal foam and just stuck it on top of the old compressed foam. (other similar foam should also work) Then I replaced the white rubbery tape and rubbed the edge down well. I then reinstalled the restored ADF pad and the spring which holds it. Last I just pressed the large white foam pad back into position - being sure to pull it with a slight tension as I pressed into place. This fixed the ADF feed and it worked like new again...

Sikna out...