Bought the model cs15510 after using 8110 model for 3 years and have tested salt level at pool store and know it to be correct but still get low salt code 91 and even tried adding more salt and cleaning electrode like book states even though system is new

It means low salt level (below 2500 ppm). If E91 is shown do the following: 1) Test the salt level with a salt test kit. If a salt test kit is not available you can take a sample of the pool water to your local pool supply store.

The chlorine level maybe too low and it is allowing algae to start growing.
Check the Ph level, it should be around 7.
Check the chlorine level in the pools water, use your chlorine test kit.
Check the salt levels, make sure it is at the correct concentration, too low a salt level and the Intex will not be able to generate enough chlorine.

This is the code for "Low Salt"... Could mean two things

1. Low Salt and will need to test ppm and add to target 3000ppm
2. Dirty electrolytic cell, soak with vinegar and flush clean..

Hope this helps!

Here's how I check if my system is generating chlorine... Light or no light...

I take a sample right out of the chlorination/ pump exit fitting in my pool and test for chlorine level. It should be out of the chart reading... If using strips, should be the highest reading or darker... If using OTO drops (Orthotolidine). The color should be dark yellow or 5.0 or higher... If you know the chlorinator is working and generating chlorine, the green LED light may be burnt??? You would need to very handy at electronics to be able to replace the LED light inside.. If you don't want to hassle with the light and testing.. The 8110 model is on sale at Wal-Mart (on line only) for $149.00 with a $50.00 gift card.. Just like paying $99.00.. Great deal.. I'm buying one for spare.. Cheaper than 1 year worth of chlorine!!! As for the boost cycle.. If your level is low and not too hot where you live, may not need to boost??? Good luck and hope I helped???

While your problems are likely greater than just the salt content in the water I can tell you that if you feel, or more importantly can taste the salt in the water your salt level is WAY TO HIGH, not low. Have the salt level confirmed with an independent test either at a pool store or using a salt tester.

John

I would take your water to local pool store and get water test to get correct chemicals to add. They will test and see if more salt is needed

what is the ppm of your salt
and are you using a test kit that reads salt in #'s or color dip strip

you probably didn't ruin it, just caused it to not know what to do.
In my opinion your problems started with actually being low salt.

In a panic and not realizing the proper way to test for 3000ppm you were probably low

you then got the new unit and were ready to have the same problem

If you do have high salt ( over 3500 ) you can create calcium on the plates and render them impossible to correctly read therefore giving alarms. you can also create severe corrosion on metal ladders thus putting metals in your pool and creating a new problem. Your pools chlorine will get eaten away quickly by the metals and with low or no sanitizer you will go green very fast.

So did you ruin the plates with high salt? I dont believe so. Your pool just wasnt in line abd if you had cleaned the plates with the vinegar treatment you still would have been in the same boat

all of the intex chlorinators are made the same but they are not exactly calibrated the same. They are close but not close enough so were one system might read the salt content ok the next may not

I am not sure if you were using any test kit at all but make sure you stay away from the salt test that reads in colors. The # test kit is right on the money where as the color one just gets you in the ball park

You must also remember that when it rains or you ad water because of splash out you may go low on salt. Just remeber 3000ppm
it takes a lot of rain or frsh water to alter your salt content but again if you are more on the low side of the 3000 then you would need to ad salt sooner

Please go to my name and look up my other posts dealing with low flow and gowing green

I am sure you will learn quite a bit and it should help you to have a more pleasurable experience with your pool..

start using the chemicals I mention in those posts cause once you go green it is hard and back breaking to get your pool back to clear

You can test if the 8110 is generating any chlorine by taking a water sample directly at the pool return. You can invert your container so it stays filled with air until you have it positioned in front of your return. Make sure your test chemicals are not expired and test the sample. You should get a high reading if the 8110 is producing any chlorine. If it is producing chlorine, you may want to make sure you have the correct level of Cyanuric Acid. In my pool, if the Cyanuric Acid level is low, the chlorine level drops to zero quite quickly.

If the sample indicated your 8110 is not producing any chlorine, I would check to see if you have approx. 24V DC between B+ and Gnd on the screw terminal strip on the main circuit board. The transformer supplies two voltages to the 8110. One voltage powers the electronics and the other powers the electrolytic circuit. So it is possible for part of the unit to work if one voltage has failed.