To me it sounds like, from what I am reading that your compressor may be the root cause if it is short cycling and you changed the thermostat and moved the thermocouple and the problem persists. Was this working fine till recently or did you just aquire the freezer and noticed it is not performing correctly? Basically, using a digital ohmmeter, you pull the compressor's relay and overload off its three terminals, then check the resistance between each of these three pins. Older relays looked a bit different than the solid state ones, but pull off pretty much the same way. First note the two pins that read the highest resistance. The one that remains is the 'common', to which one end of both the start and main windings connect. (The common's not always the top pin, so you'll want to do this test to be sure) If those two sets of readings aren't within about 1/2 ohm of each other, then one of the compressor windings is shorted, and if it runs at all, it'll run hot and usually end up short-cycling on its overload protector. If the windings test OK, but it still won't run, then I connect a test cord and try to run it manually. If I can't start it that way, it's most likely a mechanical problem, most often binding bearings, and the 'bottom line's the same: either the compressor or freezer will have to be replaced. Did the new thermostat come with an adjustment screw in the back? if so you might want to play with that as that can also cause this issue if it is not set correctly.
Here's the simple procedure I use whenever I run into one that's 'short-cycling' (trying to start, clicking on/off every few seconds, or in some cases, every minute or two).
Reading from that common to each of the other two, carefully note each reading. Then measure back across the two with the highest resistance, ignoring the common. That reading should be the exact total of the two individual coil readings, because you're reading through both coils in series now.
Let me know what you find and as far as the glass door model what your describing is about how it should work on these commercial freezers so I don't suspect an issue just check for any air leaks and make sure the doors are sealing correctly.
Thanks.
Dave
My own personal opinion is that any repair bill be sent to the seller since he was the one who claimed to have it checked out and said it was good to buy. You should try and see if he will take it back if not wanting to pay for the repair. It still could be the thermostat since I can't get my hands on it and see. Have you tried lowering the temp so that the unit must stay on to see if the compressor stays running? If it is short cycling and you know it can't possibly be at the set temp then that makes me lean towards the compressor or the overload built in to the compressor. The commercial repair people should be able to provide the correct thermostat but I am wondering if they did. . Was it an excact replacement of the old one? The type of thermostats that run on pressure differences are more accurate and work better on this type of freezer, not sure what you have on yours. I will past a pic of the one listed and you can see if it is the same as yours. this kind is electrical and you can jumper the leads to get the compressor to run. If it stays running when the thermostat is unhooked then it will be a thermostat issue if it is still short cycling then the compressor would be the suspect. Does it look like this one? this one runs around $40.00 new. These units may be commercial but they are not so complicated a regular appliance person can't look at them and make a repair, might be worth the money to have someone else check it out. Somone who has a meter and can check out the compressor and thermostst and defrost heater to make sure it is all working. Will the seller pay for another person to look at it and deem it worthy? Let me know what happens if you jump the thermostat to keep the compressor running.
Dave
Your more than welcome as I can see this was very frustrating for you and I am glad it is working at least much better than it was.
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You have a system problem, not a thermostat issue.This is a typical occurrence with these units as they use a capillary tube metering device not a Thermal Expansion Valve.
Read what I said "You have a Seales System Problem"
Capillary is most likely restricted.
Typing error. SEALED SYSTEM
Excuse the miss spelling. System Problem is SEALED SYSTEM PROBLEM.
That short of a cycle has nothing to do with the thermostat's setting and differential.
Read thihttp://www.supco.com/images/pdfs/Manuals-Instructions/Cap%20Tubing%20Manual.pdfs :
All thermostats have an adjustable differential.
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1.
The first thing you must know is that your refrigerator should be
set at 37-38 degrees. Anything at 40 or higher and you are risking
food born illness (food poisoning) or spoiling your food. Place your
magnetic thermometer in the refrigerator.
2.
Set your dial on your refrigerator to the second lowest setting. (If
your refrigerator is already equipped with a digital thermostat,
simply set it for 37 or 38 degrees and do not move on to the next
step)
3.
After 2 hours, check your thermometer reading. If your reading is 38
degrees, there is no need to go higher and you are ready to put your
groceries in. Be sure not to open and close your refrigerator during
these two hours or your temperature reading will be incorrect.
4.
If your reading is higher than 38 degrees, move your dial up to the
next coldest setting and repeat the steps every two hours until you
reach the correct temperature for your refrigerator.
5.
Once you have reached the correct refrigeration temperature for your
refrigerator, place the magnetic thermometer in the refrigerator
permanently and watch for changes.
Typically, your
refrigerator temperature will need to be adjusted with the seasons,
a higher setting in the summer and a lower setting in the winter.
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That doesn't tell me a thing. i knew it was something other than the thermostat I told you that 2 of them acted the same. give me some ideas on what system problems it could be.
Dave
you didn't say seales system problem ,you system problem . read what you wrote.
Freezer is short cycling ,thermostat
Problem with the True 49 cu. ft. / 1388 liter Commercial Freezer GDM-49F-RC
freezer is short cycling ,thermostat was replaced with small cycle change (2 mins off 3 min on) thermometer inside barely moves 2 degrees lower on kick on. thermostat rated with 11 degree diff. freezer full or empty has little effect on cycle. moved thermostat tube all over with little effect. I also have another ss door 49cu ft true the temp swing according to thermostat is 12 degrees with 10 min cycles I know to expect less time cyc with glass doors but little or no inside temp swing and short cycles doesn't seem right. View Comments
I can not find any thing on a Seales system on a true freezer? what is it?
we just purchased this unit about a month ago and it has been short cycling since installed.
The deal was that a commercial appl repair company check the unit out before i bought it (it was used) the appl repair gave it a ok so we bought it.I called them right away after install and told them it was short cycling. they sent a kid out who said it had to be the thermostat and relaced it.
It did help a little going from 45 sec cycle to 2 mins but like i said the temp inside the unit only drops 2 maybe 3 degrees before restart. the unit is in our store front and creates so much heat the air conditioner seldom shuts down. our elec bill went up $200.00 last month alone. granted it was hot here last month but thought that was a little high. Now I'm stuck between the seller who said he'd pay for the new thermostat and the repair place who's sent 2 bills to us twice for the thermostat. Shouldn't the repair guy caught this on first inspection? And I still don't have a freezer that works right.
Dave B
the owner of the refrigeration place that checked unit before i bought it came yesterday and put a wr thermostat from a walk in freezer on it. It now seems to work properly at least theres a temp swing of 12 degrees now and 6 to 8 min cycles still seems wierd that the other two thermostats out of the box listed with a 11 degee dif short cycled. thanks for your help.
Dave
seems it was the thermostat dealer replaced with a ajustable dif wr seems to be working
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