I'm re-wiring a light fixture in our kitchen - went to shut-off the breaker and found that none of the breaker switches shut-off that circuit? When I shut-off the main breaker,it shut-off the circuit? How can the circuit not have a breaker,but be wired into the main box/breaker? Help!!!

However, I can provide guidance on using a basic voltage tester to check for live wires when troubleshooting a light fixture installation.
Using a Voltage Tester:
Non-Contact Voltage Tester:
If you have a non-contact voltage tester, it's a handy tool for quickly identifying live wires without direct contact. Hold the tester close to the wire insulation or the terminal screws, and it should indicate the presence of voltage without making physical contact.
Contact Voltage Tester:
If you have a contact voltage tester, make sure it's designed for the voltage level you're working with (e.g., 120V for residential electrical systems).
Turn off the strength to the circuit on the circuit breaker or fuse box.
Safety First:
Always prioritize safety. Make sure the power is turned off before working on any electrical components.
Test the Tester:
Test the voltage tester on a known live circuit to ensure it's functioning properly.
Check the Wiring:
Once confirmed, turn off the power to the circuit you are working on.
Use the voltage tester to check each wire connected to the light fixture. Verify that there is voltage on the wires.
Neutral and Hot Wires:
Typically, a light fixture will have a hot wire (usually black) and a neutral wire (usually white). Make positive each wires are linked properly.
Ground Wire:
Check for a ground wire and ensure it's properly connected. Some light fixtures may have a green or bare copper wire for grounding.
Switch Position:
Ensure that the wall switch controlling the light fixture is in the ON position.
Bulb Check:
Confirm that the light bulbs in the fixture are working and properly installed.
Circuit Breaker Check:
Double-check the circuit breaker or fuse for the lighting circuit to make sure it hasn't tripped or blown.

I can help... but cannot see your drawing.

Let's get started:
1) By code, the microwave? should be on dedicated circuit
2) You have 4 cables that enter the box.
3) Only 1 cable will be Hot and Neutral from breaker box. You must identify this cable first.
Here is drawing:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/Pantry-door-switch-1000.jpg

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

ok shut off circuit breaker or fuse first.
then remove knob on dimmer.
next remove cover and screws.
then remove mounting screws.
loosen screws holding wires. if one is loose tighten and retry
dimmer and don't forget to shut power off after trying dimmer.
replace by reverse order. Make sure the wires are tightened
securely.

Did you check the output of the breaker?

If you replaced the breaker (with one of the types specified on the panel cover) and there is still no output between it and the neutral bar, then there's some sort of problem with the bus bar in the panel. You should shut off power at the service disconnect and carefully inspect the portion of the bus bar to which the breaker connects. You're looking for darkened / pitted copper or aluminum bus. These are indications of poor continuity that result in heat. You may have luck abandoning that breaker location and selecting another, unused location for the breaker instead.


Did you check the neutral wire associated with this circuit?

An open neutral will mimic a "no power" problem like a blown fuse or open breaker - even when the fuse or breaker isn't the problem. The circuit consists of a hot and neutral. One without the other gives a "no power" indication. Keep in mind that the hot (or neutral for that matter) may test "good" in the panel, but in fact may have opened and *any* connection (splice, wire nut, device, etc.) between the panel and where no power is first observed. Check ALL locations (switches, fixtures, outlets, junction boxes, etc.) in the circuit for open broken connections. It can be time consuming - but this is the only way to find the break point. Additionally, there may be a ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) receptacle that is supplying power to the part of the circuit that you noticed has failed. Press the RESET button on all of these devices to make sure none have tripped - and those that have - are reset.

Good luck!

Problem is probably not the breakers. Sounds like a loose splice you'll have to deenergize those circuits open all switch boxes and light fixture boxes and check connections. Sounds to me like a loose neutral ( white ) wire

Hi,

1 Turn off the light switches and unplug appliances in the room that has lost power.

2 Find your circuit breaker box and open the cover.

3 Locate the tripped breaker. Circuit breakers are small, usually horizontal switches labeled by the areas of the house they serve (for example, "kitchen," "bathroom" and so on). The tripped circuit breaker will be in the "off" position or in a middle position between "on" and "off."

4 Reset the breaker by moving it to the full "off" position and then back to "on." That may clear an overload and return power to the room. If the breaker re-trips, you may have too many lamps and appliances plugged into the circuit; a damaged cord or plug; a short circuit in a receptacle, switch or fixture; or faulty wiring.

5 Identify and correct the malfunction before resetting the breaker.

Please post your feedback and Vote if the problem resolved as per your satisfaction.

You're saying fan (singular) and lights (plural)? Does this fan and these lights work off of one switch? If so, then it's probably a bad switch. You can check this by turning off the circuit breaker. Remove the switch from the wall, and put the two wires going to that switch together. Make sure to use a wire nut, or tape to keep these wires together without touching and grounding anything. Make sure these wires are clear of anyone or anything, and then go back and turn on the circuit breaker. If the lights and fan go back on, then it's a bad switch. This is what it sounds like. So now, you can turn the cir. brkr back off - replace the switch, and then after everything is secure and the switch is in the off position - you can turn the cir. brkr back on again. Then go back into the kitchen and turn the switch on again to reaffirm that everything is back in working order. If for some reason this doesn't work, feel free to contact me again. Good Luck!  Jim

Do me a favor, prior to reading on any further; did you try pulling (or turning) on the fan chain? As simple as this sounds, I've experienced this before. And I'd rather you try the simple solution first, before opening up the fixture. Okay, if that didn't work - the first TURN OFF the light switch or circuit breaker before working on these fixture's. If you're not well schooled in doing electrical work, I'd advise turning the circuit breaker off along with the wall switch. Now, when you open up your fixture, the black wire should be hooked up to the fan motor(s) lead wire; and the blue wire to your light(s) lead wire. Now, if both your fan and light were working before, then the wires at the fixture (black/motor and blue/light) were wired together. If so, then it could've blown both motor(s)? But I don't believe it did. Now that you've checked everything out, and your ready to turn the fixture back on. Keep the wall switch in the off position. Then go turn on your circuit breaker. If everything holds, then turn the wall switch on. It's done in this manner for safety reason's. Try this, and then let me know how it went. You should be good to go. Good Luck, and feel free to contact me again if you have any problems. Jim

Open neutral. check the fixture/switch closest to the bkr panel that is not working for a bad connection in a wire nut, if not there, move to next fixture/switch closer to the panel

Typically, the white wire is neutral. ANY non-white wire [except green] is hot. Green is typically ground.

Hot wire should go first to a switch or safety device [fuse or circuit breaker]. If this is an unswitched light fixture, the wires will go directly to the bulb sockets. Follow the color codes I just described.

Another solution is to get a continuity tester or ohm meter. The hot lead should show connection to the center contact in any socket.