I'm losing bolts off of the oustide of the gear box, trying to find what size I need to replaced them?

If you can't figure out how to remove the washer tank, should you really be trying to replace a gear box?

Yes all tillers and snow blowers that size need shear bolts in the tiller in the case it would get stones lodged between the tiller blades and the shield..or packed snow,ice or even stones in the auger ,..you may get away with using a soft steel bolt but sooner or later you will be replacing a broken gear box..even if yours does not have them get them..a $2 bolt or new gear box your choice.Just measure the bolt length and the shaft diameter not any shear bolt will due..the grooves on the bolt are meant to be the same size as the shaft diameter to insure shear at the shaft area that is under extreme pressure..Hope this helped..good luck.

You can go to Sears Hardware,Home Depot,Lowes,
Lumber Yard,any place with grade 5 or grade 8 bolts

If they happen to be Metric,they have them also

Surely you have some similar thread bolts, you could try,
and when you get the thread size,you can figure out how
long you need them

Any Auto Parts Store, can take a water pump of the shelf
& try all the bolts they have,there

They just got rid of you. You have to learn the in's & out's
of the auto repair business & how to talk to them

top bolt is recessed in and the bolt is a torqes outside,7/16,need a long exstension with that size socket.

Here's the deal from what you've written as best I can tell. I don't know about the grease once a year, but if you DO take them bolts out (which you don't need to do, BTW), you won't spill "Guts" all over the place; you'll find one gear in there with grease on it. Feel free to wipe it clean and put some new grease on it; not too much but make sure it's covered). Your "REAL" problem is probably your belt needs replacing. That gear box is rocked back and forth by pressure from the belt and if your mower is slacking, then it's not getting enough tension to drive the wheels and simply needs a new belt (it's slipping, dude). They can be a puzzle to get off, but you must take the belt off and match it up at a shop or get the number off it or better yet; that trusty ol' owner's manual should tell you what belt to buy. I'll bet you can replace that belt and be back in business. That gear grease is probably fine, as it has no place to go. You may wanna take them four bolts out and just re-smear it all over the gears tho; can't hurt. Don't wipe your fingers on your pants either. The wife will kick yera$$.

It is likely the Chilton manual is suggesting that you lower the front differential, but not remove it completely, in order to increase clearance. If you have an independent front suspension, then you can lower the front differential by simply removing the 3 bolts that mount the differential in place because it is mounted independently of the axles, but you will not be able to remove the differential completely.

You'll need a box end wrench and a pry bar. Use the pry bar to hold the ring gear against the motor while you use the box end wrench to remove one bolt. Then rotate the engine with the bar to bring the next bolt around to where you can get the wrench on it. Repeat until you have the bolts off. Do not lose those bolts. If you do they will have to be ordered at the dealer.
When you put the torque convertor back in the transmission it has to go in two steps. It will slide in so far and then you will have to turn and push until it goes in again. If you don't do this the trans will not mount flush with the engine. When it's in the transmission properly it should sit about an inch inside the housing. Hope this helps.

Several answers here are correct (work out nylon gear teeth on rotor which meshes with the spyder assembly.)

But here's a tip to help you get through a few more loads until your new rotor arrives. When I took the bolt off my washer, I noticed that it wasn't on that tight. Either it shook lose (although they had applied blue Loctite) or it hadn't been fully tightened at the factory.

A loose bolt will cause the rotor gear to wear out much faster because of the play between the rotor and spyder.

Anyway, I tightened up the bolt and the washer is now running fine. Of course, it will not hold in the long run, but at least my wife can get a few loads done until the new rotor part arrives!

Try it!

Peter, without a complete model number, no one will be able to provide an owner's manual and parts list which would provide the bolt size either. So let's try to figure out the best way to determine a replacement for your fan.

If you can locate the model number of your fan, you can easily obtain a parts list for your fan and the replacement blade retaining bolt.

If that's not possible, the next best thing to do is take the fan with you to a local hardware store (or a big box Home Depot or Lowe's, etc.) and try to find the proper sized bolt in their hardware isle. Many hardware stores have loose bolts that you can try and find the correct thread size and length to fit the fan shaft.

I hope you find this Very Helpful and best regards!

U NEED TO SET THE CLUTCH WIRE BOLT LOSE OR TIGHT IT BOLT IT WILL BE OK