20 Most Recent Westinghouse WRS3R3EW 33" 22.6 Cu. Ft. Side-by-Side Refrigerator w/ Plastic Freezer Basket, 4-Button... Questions & Answers

I have a Westinghouse upright freezer FJ383M-R. The red light was on bright and the top half of freezer was not working. Turns out it was a switch that turns the defrost cycle on was faulty. Serveman replaced borken part. Now it is fine. Was much cheaper than replacing freezer.

Had the problem in a similar fridge - the repair person said the noise was most likely the sound of ice build up being removed during defrost cycle and not to worry. Suggest you check the freezer temperature is not too cold and building up excess ice.

This is a bad design flaw, the fridhe is cooled by fan forced air from the freazer. Two ducts vent into and out of the fridge fron the freezer and ice can block them up (which you can find if you take off all the plastic at the top and back of the fridge).
Hence, when they block up, the frindge does not cool, hence the thermostat tells the fridge to keep running which makes the freezer colder and colder, making the blockage worse.

You need to not only fully defrost the freezer (which can be done quicker by removing the plastic panel in the back of the freezer and using a hairdryer) BUT also fully dry the fridge before turning it back on.
To stop it happening again, avoid puting unvovered liquids or hot items in the fridge. Also avoid leaving the fridge and freezer doors open for long especially in humid conditions. As I said, it's a bad design.

On the back wall of the freezer is where the cooling coils are located behind the metal. At the bottom is the drain trough through which the water from defrost flows. This drain may be clogged with debris.
Mix some baking soda and warm water and pour it down the drain. You may also need to push a piece of wire (coat hanger) through it.

You may need a new circuit board.

If there is no cooling at all , before we go further we must confirm the first step of confirming the compressor and gas pressure. So shut off the fridge and leave it off while you clean and check the evaporator for frost. If frost is seen it is a good indication as the compressor is working with sufficient gas within.Now after about 6 hours plug in the fridge to start. Observe cooling to happen in about one hour and ice to from under three hours.Earlier make sure that the thermostat was set to normal mode for freezer and fridge. If there is no ice formation we have a big issue as the compressor and gas must be checked out. If compressor is running check the pressure, get help to test gas pressure. If not you will need to fill up ,If gas pressure is good the possibility of the compressor being inefficient is high. In such a case you must take consensus to estimate and decide, if RPM of motor is low check capacitor.However if Ice forms then observe the fridge for about 24 hours for cooling to continue and the fridge to cut off. If not the auto defrost timer, or the thermostat must be checked.

The ventilation fan that circulates the COLD air from the evaporator coils could get clogged with frost and so could be jammed. Also the wires to the fan can be worn out due to the frost. If so check if the defrost timer works to switch the heater to remove the frost. Also the check if the compressor is shut down by the timer /thermostat . If the heaters are not working, check continuity of the heaters.So attempt to test using a multi-meter / clamp tester from the outside and make your observations so that we come to the solution.

Please check this link for tips to work.

http://www.espares.co.uk/advice/fridges-and-freezers/a/2