20 Most Recent 1995-1997 Chevy 1500 Truck Ignition Starter Alarm Switch - Page 8 Questions & Answers

try this link here they tend to have a lot of manuals

VACCUM LEAK USUALLY

suggest calling dealer with vin# and year of truck and ask what fits yours good luck!

leave the controller plugged in and look at the menu.

4 or six cylinder On a 4 cylinder, real easy, just disconnect the negative battery cable, get under and remove the cable and bolts. On a 6 cylinder, more complicated---you have to remove the 02 sensor connector and the right side exhaust pipe first. The part however, is not cheap and hard to find my friend

The starter motor is located in the front under the exhaust manifold. Hope this helps. Good luck!

There is a very good chance that you have a short from your starter motor . If you are able to dis assemble , then do so and you may find that the wire attached to the bushes ( carbon brushes ) have become detached and eartnig on the case ) OPTIONS . get new brushes . get exchange recon unit get new unit unlikely but possible the power cable to the starter has come loose and shorting too nearest earth . Do not do any elcetrical work on the car without disconnecting earth lead on th e battery .

Start with new plugs and wires, if that don't fixya, try new coil/cap. If that don't fixya tow it to a dealer.

It might make a small difference but not enough to notice. Replace all your lifters while you are at it. Also replace the push rods and have the rocker arms assembly checked. Have your heads checked while they are off. No sense paying someone twice to do a similar procedure 3 months down the road.

The unit does not turn on at all? No lights, no clock? I know you checked the fuse but did you check for a physical +12v on both the power wires and verify the ground is grounding?If all your wires are verified then hopefully you're still under warranty. This is a pretty low-cost unit and as the saying goes, you get what you pay for.If you are getting lights etc. on the unit but no sound, chances are your internal amp transistors are blown. Not worth repairing but you can usually use the external am outputs with an amplifer to keep going.

I would look for a faulty electrical connection somewhere, especially, the ground connections. After 10 years, some electrical connections build up resistance and need to be cleaned up. With a bad ground connection, things get unpredictable.

not enough info

Sounds like it is possible the some one added the wrong type of fluid to the master cylinder. Check the rubber gasket on the master cyl if it is swollen you have a problem.. If it is soft and swollen, then the rubber cups in the master cyl are also swollen and will need to be replaced

Check for a bad ignition fuse, ign module, or computer connections or computer.

Check to see haw strong the spark is coming out the dist cap. If it is weak there, possible bad cap/rotor/coil/ module. Make sure the wire from the coil to the cap is good.

GM has a problem with their fuel pressure regulators leaking . Since it is under the intake manifold, it adds extra fuel to the cyls. Also make sure the fuel pressure is within specs.

Does the code say bad rich or lean? If rich, you may have a bad fuel regulator located under the intake manifold. If lean, a bad vacuum leak, but since there is a smell of gas it probably is rich.

This would be the rear sensor on the drivers side exhaust telling you that the exhaust is not with in specs. Either a bad sensor, exhaust leak, wire connection or catalytic converter

Do the wires spark only when the engine is running? If so the problem could be from the ignition spark plug wires. If they spark with the engine off, then you have a wire loom problem with a wire shorting to ground where you see the spark Tape it up