20 Most Recent 2006 Jawa 650 Dakar Questions & Answers

I assume this posting was a test. I answer it simply to remove material that does not apply to the category....

195 kg

165 km/h

Motorbikes built since the 1990's more often have catalytic converters than those prior to this time. In countries throughout the world there have been studies regarding the impact of 2-stroke and 4-stroke motorbike exhaust contaminants into the air. The conclusion has pretty much been a change in policy requiring the inclusion of catalytic converters be an added feature on these motorbikes. From all I read it appears most manufacturers have included catalytic converters on 2-stroke and 4 stroked motorbikes for quite sometime. The majority of these motorbikes sold today, will have a catalytic converter. In the event you find one without a converter, if would probably not be a good idea to purchase it. An older 2-stroke or 4-stroke motorbike, probably could have a catalytic converter added, although it might be expensive to do this.,,,

Most are spray mate but I have used chainsaw oil in the past its very good easy to clean off if it flings and I just used to put it on the chain with an old paint brush.,,,

More information would help - why do you need to replace the stator plate? What's the trouble? Why can't the existing stuff be repaired or components replaced. There have been several versions of the Babetta, the first moped to use a contactless transistorised ignition, unfortunately obtaining spares, if they are available might mean buying from Germany, Czechoslovakia or Latvia. An alternative could mean fitting a one piece ignition module from a lawn mower, chainsaw or strimmer...

Hope this helps
http://www.dansmc.com/shopmanual2.htm

Try Carl Salter website & scroll down to Jawa section, might be something suitable. http://www.carlsalter.com/classic-bike-service-manuals.asp

Some common causes and potential solutions: Air/Vacuum Leak: If your Harley develops a vacuum leak in its air intake system, the air-fuel mixture becomes too rich. This can cause frequent stall outs, especially after the bike warms up. Vacuum leaks often occur due to dried-out or cracked air intake boots, faulty gaskets, or worn-out carburetor seals. When air escapes from the intake system, the fuel fills the empty space in the combustion chamber, altering the air/fuel ratio and negatively impacting combustion. Severe vacuum leaks can lead to excess fuel flowing into the exhaust system, causing backfiring and stalling while riding. Clogged Fuel Tank Filter/Fuel Injectors: A blocked fuel tank filter (due to coagulated fuel, moisture, dirt, or corrosion) impairs fuel flow, resulting in a lean air/fuel ratio. On fuel-injected Harleys, clogged fuel injectors produce similar symptoms. Regular maintenance, including cleaning and inspecting fuel filters, helps prevent these issues. Faulty Cam Chain Tensioner: A malfunctioning cam chain tensioner can affect engine timing and cause stalling. Regular checks and replacements are essential to avoid this problem. Faulty Cam Position Sensor: The cam position sensor plays a crucial role in ignition timing. If it malfunctions, it can lead to stalling and backfiring. Clogged Air Cleaner: A dirty air cleaner restricts airflow, affecting combustion efficiency. Regularly clean or replace the air filter to prevent this issue. Ignition System Failure: Faulty ignition components (such as spark plugs, ignition coils, or wires) can cause misfires, backfires, and stalling. Inspect and maintain these parts regularly. Compromised Battery Terminal Connection: Poor battery connections can disrupt electrical flow, affecting the ignition system. Ensure clean and secure battery terminals. Remember that diagnosing and addressing these issues may require professional assistance. Regular maintenance and timely repairs can keep your Fat Boy running smoothly on the road.

Honda C90, or Suzuki C90? all questions need full 'year make model'. Google it plus 'engine number location'. ..

I can't find a diagram. The small potentiometer on the control board likely serves as an adjustable component to fine-tune specific parameters. Here are some possibilities: Voltage Regulation: The potentiometer might control the output voltage. By adjusting it, you can set the desired charging voltage for different battery types (e.g., 6V or 12V). Current Limit Adjustment: It could be used to set the maximum charging current. Adjusting the potentiometer allows you to limit the charging current based on the battery's capacity and condition. Sensitivity or Threshold: Some potentiometers act as sensitivity controls. For example, it might adjust the threshold at which the charger switches between charging and maintenance modes. Setting the Potentiometer: Without the specific circuit diagram or detailed information about your charger, I recommend the following general steps: Observe the Potentiometer: Identify the potentiometer on the control board. Note its position and any markings (if present). Consult the User Manual: Check the user manual or operating instructions. It might provide guidance on adjusting the potentiometer. Trial and Error: If no specific instructions are available, start with the potentiometer set to its mid-position. Gradually adjust it while monitoring the charger's behavior (e.g., charging current, voltage). Observe how the charger responds to changes in the potentiometer setting. Fine-tune it based on your specific battery type and desired charging characteristics. Remember that precise adjustments depend on the charger's design and the battery you're charging.