20 Most Recent Dewalt DW788 Heavy Duty 20" Variable Speed Scroll Saw: DW7881 Worklight Questions & Answers

Part is $84.00 Are the operators crowding the tool, blades sharp? Scroll saws do not cut quickly.https://www.ereplacementparts.com/dewalt-dw788-type-scroll-saw-parts-c-1009_2631_2632.html

First: if there is looseness in the table, it is dangerous. So I would check all the parts for wear. If, for instance, a knob worked loose, the bolt could have worn (via vibrating) the bracket, resulting in you being unable to tighten it correctly. Occasionally I take mine all apart and check it all over for just that reason. I also check all the knobs just before use to make sure they are all tight. Here is a web page talking about Dewalt scroll saw problems and solutions http://www.scrollsaws.com/SawReviews/DewltTuneUp.htm

Most parts are not longer available the assembly also not Converting so it runs at full speed and use a variac on the mains power supply.

If you are getting voltage then it is most likely the control board. You would need to take it into a repair service center and they would have to pull the whole thing down to repair.

check if there is a reset on the motor..usually push to reset.

Does the motor continue to run, but the arm stops? It sounds like the set screw on the motor shaft is loose. See the exploded view at this link. It's called out as # 97 http://www.dewaltservicenet.com/Products/DocumentView.aspx?productid=5682&typeId=3475&documentId=333

Blowing fuses is not caused by brushes unless there is a huge spark show going on and if that is the case your armature will be trashed as well - the electronic module in that saw is notorious for failure and that is where I would start

To get the plastic hose in:Hammer in one or two of the plastic joints from the plastic hose with a rubber mallet to build the foundation to the metal connector. Once you get the plastic foundation joints into the Dewalt Scroll Saw. It's easy to add rest of the plastic hose in.

Hi, if the fuse has never been changed it may just be stiff, also whenit says push it may be that your are not pushing in the right directionsome have to slide and push at the same time, however, assumingyou have tried this, then it would make sense to revert to the screwdriver method , but gently and at the opposit end from the word push...T.C.

Scotty you need a Torx screw driver

The fuse box looks as though you pry it off with a screwdriver, however, a small screwdriver should be placed into a slot that is nearly invisible on the face of the fuse box. You can see it with a flashlight. Screwdriver in at an upward angle then bring it up toward level and it will pop out. If you put the fuse box back into the machine without a fuse its a to get it out.

The best thing I've found to seal saw table tops is a good car wax. It keeps the rust down and is great to keep your work sliding easily on the top and won't stain your wood like oil based coatings would.

lo que pasa es que esta mal el boton de arranque conosido como resistencia bariable

Cole, The cut you are describing is challenging, but possible on a 20" scroll saw. First the blade--- you call this a hollow plank. If this is something like a hollow-core door, then the 1.5" thickness will be no problem. If you have to cut through a solid 1.5" (as you would at the edge) then you have a slow go of it unless you can find a pretty coarse pitch blade (big teeth). Second, making the turn----- assuming you are making this cut somewhere near the center of the 5' lenghth, then you won't be able to simply make a 90 degree turn after you cut the initial 5 inches. But you can make an approximately 60 degree turn, then stop the saw, leave the workpiece in place with the blade still in the cut, and reset the blade to cut sideways (so that the teeth of the blade are facing to your left or right rather than pointing toward you.) Before you make this blade turn, however, you should make the other 5 inch cut, so that you don't have to make the blade turn twice. Alternatively, if the 5 x 1.5 piece you are removing is just scrap, then you can make your two 5 inch cuts just converge to a point at the middle of the 1.5 inch line so that you can remove most of the scrap without moving the blade. Then you can reset the blade more easily with the workpiece removed from the saw. I hope you found this helpful.---- Oh, one more thing! The 1.5 inch part of the cut would be a lot easier simply by using a coping saw - they are about $15. Actually, you could do the whole cut with a coping saw. Good luck! Al K

CHECK FOR ANY BREAKS OR WEAR IN CORD , IF NONE IT MAY BE THE CARBON BRUSHES ARE WORN OUT .