Lutron ELECTRONICS CO. Q-603PH-WH "QUOTO" 3 WAY DIMMER - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

No problem, merely a misunderstanding. That's actually the point of that product (the 'g' in the model number was the clue). This is their "eco-dim" line of products, and its specifically designed to not let the lights go over 85% light level. Its a means of using the dimmer to help guarantee energy savings and lamp life extension.

If this bothers you, then I would return it and grab one that doesn't have the "g" in the model number.

I answer questions for free.
I specialize in timers and electrical devices.

There are not replacement parts for electrical wall devices.
You can pull out the device and see if there is a loose wire that caused the pop.
But today's dimmers are electronic, and if there is a pop, I bet the circuit board inside the dimmer has been ruined.

If you need more help, add a comment and I will respond.

I answer questions for free.
I know electric wiring and can help.
But you need a better explanation.
What are you doing?
Did you replace something.
What device did you put in?
Is this a 3-way device at one end of a hall?
And I'm a little unclear about " all house lights on light the hall but all off will not turn off the lights'
If you add a comment I will answer

The most likely possibility is that the dimmer simply broke. I would call Lutron tech support at 1-800-523-9466 to help you diagnose it and possibly send you a replacement (available 24/7).

florecent bulbs wont dim unless they are dimmable.

You're in a difficult position for which I see few options --- none of them ideal. Short of replacing all your switches and wall plates in a matching color of your choice, a cheaper option might be to find a satin spray paint in or near-enough to your color and gently spraying the new dimmer(s) to match. Alternatively, Eaton makes LED dimmers in "Desert Sand" (but whether their Desert Sand looks anything like Lutron's is beyond me).

Which one? My eyes are poor and I cannot see that far.

That is normal. I assume the two white wires are connected together in the box.

This is a no-no unless they are specifically designed to do this.

The directions tell you where to connect it. My eyes are poor and I cannot see what you have!

It sounds like you blew the triac (the electronic switch) in the light. You will need to get a replacement module or a new light. Sometimes lightning will cause this. If it was a tungsten lamp they can have a large current surge when it fails.

Is original a 3-way dimmer (2 or more switches control same light fixture)?

The only device rated for a motor load is the RRD-8ANS and itequires a neutral connect.

To clarify you have a gang of 3 fans you want to control from more than 2 locations (3 or more existing wall switch boxes)?

Halogen work with AC or DC voltage ... 12 volt LED bulbs are DC. Check that transformer delivers DC, or buy 100 watt IP67 LED driver. Keep in mind the lutron DV-600 is rated for incandescent and halogen loads, and may not function as expected when connected to inductive load like transformer or driver.

I take it you don't want to just remove the upstairs 3 way switch and wirenut the 3 wires together and put a blank cover plate over the box<?>. Need to know more info. Does the upstairs box have 3 wires only? If no, then likely you will not be able to abandon the upstairs switch box as it will need to remain as an active junction box. If yes, then it becomes a rather lengthy procedure (textual). I'll sketch it out but need an answer the number of wires in upstairs box. Comment below so I may assist further.

There are a lot of DIVA models and you did not post the model number. There are multple configurations and wiring methods.

Lights require a minimum voltage. Reset minimum to a brighter level.

You might look to see if the outlet is GFI protected. It is possible the GFI (Ground Fault Interrupter) tripped and needs to be reset. If so, push the red button (reset button) firmly until it stays down (pushed in). If it does not stay closed, replace it. Also check your light bulb fed by "the switch that does not work", to make sure it did not burn out. Your switch could be good, but the bulb bad. If your light switch is not on a GFI circuit and both Lutron switches are fed by one breaker, get a volt-ohm meter, set it to the volts in a voltage range to read house hold voltage (around 121 volts), and check to see that both switches are receiving 121 volts. Usually you measure with the black probe touching a white (neutral) wire, while the black wire is usually the wire that is in series with the lamp. A black wire may come into the switch and leave as a black wire going to the bulb. If you do not have full voltage reaching your switch, you may have a wiring problem where a wire is no longer making good contact. If you are not sure about how to test with a volt meter, search on your tube for further explanations on how to test to see if a light switch is good.

Not sure if you can just splice the extra wires together. The ballast information is what matters converting to just on-off, not the finger switchswitch

yes it does,