Hilti TE 7-C 120V Rotary Hammer Drill - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

You should have no more than 70cc of oil in the housing. AW46 Hydraulic fluid will work.

This is a problem we have encountered many times. There is usually a good supply of Hilti for sale used. See if you can find a drill the same as yours and swap out the parts.

switch is not engaging completely or you don't have enough power going to it

to my knowledge you can't buy hilti parts. they want you to send it to a service center for repair. if you notice any of the big parts places on the net don't list hilti. i work in a repair shop and we can't get parts, they won't sell them to us.

THERE IS A SMALL WHITE FUSE INSIDE THE CHARGER CHECK TO SEE IF IT HAS BLOWN IF SO REPLACE WITH A NEW ONE THE EXACT SAME AS THE ONE YOU ARE REPLACING BUT REMEMBER TO UNPLUG EVERY TIME YOU WORK ON IT OR ANY OTHER ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT STAY SAFE UNPLUG EVERY TIME YOU WORK ON ELECTRICAL ITEMS

Check the motor if the motor has power and then the gears are not working. If the motor doesnt have any power then you need to check for power. To get at the gears you are going to need to remove the chuck

You put the two flat sides on the end of the cap nut and lock them in a vice. You then put a wrench on the back side of the chuck which also has two flat sides. with the cap nut locked in a vise take the wrench and turn the retaining sleeve which has the two flat sides counterclockwise to break the cap nut loose. When it turns freely take the chuck out of the vise and turn the cap nut off. You then push the ribbed locking sleeve down to access an o-ring. You pull that off and it releases the locking sleeve and two roller bearings. You then pull off the retaining slv with the two flat sides and release the other two roller bearings. the chuck will then just pull off the shaftHope this helps

Hilti should be able to provide you with them. If not contact a local motor repair outlet and find brushes the same size, they are very easy to change on the TE series.

Failing that Hilti offers a trade-in program for their tools.

Try https://www.hilti.co.uk/holuk/page/module/home/home_main.jsf?lang=en

Most common for the TE22 was the switch and or cord. To get to handle off take a 5mm allen wrench and take the two screws off the bottem of the handle and then stick the wrench in through the hole in the top of the handle and remove the screw on the inside. Then take the two phillip screws off the side of the handle to seperate the two halves. You will need to take a continuity tester and read each cord from the plug to the switch. If that reads out continue to read the contacts on the switch. The cord you can replace but if the switch is bad there is not a replacment for it. Hope this helps.

If this is a TE7 then the chuck will just pop off of the front end. You just pull the rear chuck sleeve foward to release the chuck. With the chuck off run the drill to see if the cylinder is bent. If you bent the cylinder it will wobble. If the cylinder is okay just order a new chuck. If the cylinder is bent then your best choice is to send it to Hilti and have it repaired by them. They have a ceiling on the amount the repair would be and you would get a warranty with the repair. It would be cheaper than you trying to buy the cylinder and replacing it yourself.Hilti 1-800-879-8000Glenn

It takes 70 cc of oil in the gear casing. Too much oil will snap the connecting rod. If it did not have oil in it there might be a leak somewhere

answered on another solution

I see you posted several symptons on the TE12, the logical area to check is "hilti.com" you should be able to download the parts breakdown and order all the related parts needed, If you have trouble finding that you can call them at the phone number listed on their site, I think it is 1-800-879-8000, but you might want to double check. They have customer service agents that are more than willing to help in your problem, If you need more assistance let me know.

the rotory cam has been broken inside if not producing the hammer effect

If the tools is still wet with oil then you would add around 25cc. If you washed the gear housing assy out completly then you would add 35cc

Parts are no longer available for the TE12. Be carefull if you try to take it apart yourself. Some of the older models had a lead based grease in them

I assume you are referring to the two roller bearings on the cylinder assy. Without the special jigs this is a tough task. Even tougher to try to explain. Basically the large bevel gear has to be pressed down along with the sleeve on top. This will reveal a snap ring that has to be removed. Everything will slide off to get you to the other bearing which is held on with a snap ring. But this bearing will have to be pressed off.

If it is a TE12 and not a 12s you will have a metal external snap ring at the end of the chuck. Remove that and the metal dust slv will come off. There will be four screws holding the chuck sleeve on. Remove the plastic chuck sleeve and you will have the metal locking slv underneath it. There may be an oring in front of it. If so remove it. Push the locking sleeve in and remove the two elongated roller bearings. this will release the locking sleeve which is most of your chuck. If it is a 12s your front sleeve will be plastic. You almost have to break it to get it off. the rest is the same as te 12

Wipe the spindle off and in the back side of the chuck. The back collar is spring loaded and should move freely, if not I would use some lubricating fluid until the collar moves, with that said when you reinstall pull on the back collar to release the locking steel balls and push on spindle then release the collar and turn it until you feel the steel balls click into the indents on the spindle. Let me know if you need more assistance.