20 Most Recent Samsung RS2556 Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Hi,
It sounds like your heater has gone bad, the heater keeps the frost off of the evaporator (cooling coils). When the frost builds up it blocks air from flowing through the refrigerator causing the cooling to be lost. I have attached a picture. If the part you are talking about being burned is part 29 on this image than that is part you need for sure. It can be ordered from an appliance parts dealer locally using your model number or you can order it online. It is a bit complex to get it apart and install the new one, but can be done with a bit of patience and technical ability.

Let me know if you have questions.

The board is right behind the front panel of the ice maker. Mine (front panel) is transparent so I can see it.

Hi, since your warranty is still on, i will want to advise you to call in the warranty guy to come and check it again so that he can complete his unfinished job.....
Since the compressor is coming on and off, then he has not properly installed the circuit board....

Take care

1. Check that the doors shut correctly. Hold each door about halfway open, then let go. If the doors don't shut completely, adjust the screw legs on the front of the refrigerator so the unit tilts back a bit. With adjustable pliers, turn each leg one revolution clockwise. Recheck the doors and, if necessary, repeat the process until they shut securely.
   
2. Step 2 Inspect the door gaskets. Look for debris that may keep the doors from shutting. Also check for cracks or gaps in the gaskets that could allow the cold air to seep out. If you find debris, clean the gaskets with warm, soapy water. If you find cracks or gaps, you'll need to replace the gaskets
   
3. Step 3 If your refrigerator is equipped with a door-frame heater that evaporates condensation, make sure the heater is turned on. The switch should be located with your other refrigerator controls.
   

According to my schematic, you have a twin cooling system on that refrigerator, unlike most residential refrigerators that only have one system, for the freezer, which then blows cold air into the fresh food side. Yours having twin systems, is much much more difficult to determine without inspection. If you are in the chicagoland area i can help, otherwise try to find a local service to at least inspect it and tell you what is wrong.

www.FixMyFridge.net

The demintions are 35.9 inch wide x 33.8 inch deep x 70 inch high

if you have a slow clicking noise, like the compressor is trying to start,replace the rtc overload contactor on the compressor body that supplies power to all the units functions,easily done by accessing the compressor in the lower rear area unplug the unit and then unplug the rtc contactor from the compressor, otherwise if you have recently had light in this models refrigerator compartment burn out and the clicking is rapid like chattering and the temp controls are out besides the lights in the refrigerators compartments are dimly flashing/strobing, then you need to replace the motherboard also located in a rear compartment in the rear also as the relays are trying to latch and can't due to a circuit board damage from lights burning out and putting a surge into this motherboard and burning the circuits trace side

Check to ensure that the freezer fan motor is operable (you may need to open the freezer door and activate a button inside the freezer door frame in order to make the fan operate). If the fan works, then you may have an issue with the damper assembly (located in the fresh food compartment at the top left side). It will either be a "manual" or "electronic" concept. Adjust the temperature settings for both the freezer and fresh food compartments at the "half-way mark". You should also have a vent or two at the bottom left side of the fresh food compartment (check to see how far they are openend or closed and adjust accordingly). If the aforementioned doesn't help, contact an appliance service company.

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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.


you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located on the back .


Part 6 on this diagram is your defrost control.
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5174704&diagram_id=1346448#d1346448

We have a problem with the Refrigerator because the temperature and the wasn't cold it was warm

Sounds very likely it is the fan , it cud be the fan is hitting some cable or ice as well , or the fan motor has had it , most of those fans r 240 volts , so any fit any

HI. Your symptoms are indicating that the temperature sensors are malfunctioning. This may also be the cause of a faulty PBA(main circuit board). To isolate the actual issue, You will need to test the temperature sensors in both the freezer, and refrigerator compartments. Each sensor can be tested with a multimeter testing device, set to 1X(ohms). You will be testing for continuity. Use the connector led for testing. It should be a two wire led with a connector at the end of each sensor. Insert the test probes into the connector ends, and test. Any reading above the number 0 will confirm sensor failure.

Remember to test each sensor at room temperature. If the temperature sensors test out ok, simply replace the PBA Main.

Ur colling unit is etheir broken or not at the right setting

That is usually the evaporator fan motor ($30).
Check to be sure you can get a replacement fan first, they last about 4 - 5 years. Can get from a parts supplier or electric motor company.
Unplug fridge. Located usually in top of freezer behind a vented cover plate. Remove cover, remove screws holding fan in, may have to cut wires. Replace with new motor, make sure the fan pushes air into the freezer area and doesn't spin backward drawing air from the freezer area.

OK, I will get the service manual and be right back. Sea Breeze

could be the compresor not working,,
the thermostat has given up,,
or it needs a regas,,
what ever it needs a repair man to fix it up for you,,
sorry,,,,

yes it is a very easy repair,
remove the back panal, on the back bottom
on the rar right corner you will see a white box, remove that box and the control is in that
http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5172311&diagram_id=1356036#d1356036
i have sent you the break down and the part number on the page is 6
hope this helps

check to make sure that the tube that fills the ice maker is not froozen upo and causoing this problem

The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper) between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it. Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it to run. There is a flap you adjust with the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if you have one or the mechanical linkages.


Ice may also be forming in the freezer.


The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.

If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx

To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a