20 Most Recent Briggs and Stratton 71007 100 AMP Transfer Switch Questions & Answers

see http://forum.doityourself.com/outdoor-power-equipment-small-engines/384248-spring-locations

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/21018/Briggs-And-Stratton-030241-0.html#manual

Had this happen to me. The problem turned out to be a mouse nest inside the gaps around the flywheel(?) assembly that is behind the starter pull cord. I pulled off the starter and saw some mouse crud. I cleared that out and reassembled. Pulled the cord again and heard clunk, snap, and breaking pieces bouncing around. Everything was stuck again. Disassembled again to see some of the plastic blades of the fan snapped and there was a lot more mouse nest jammed in. Spent 2 hours digging out what must have been at least a basketball sized cloud of mouse nest. I had to dig, spin a little by hand, keep digging. Eventually I got it all out and the engine fired up nicely. It seems this design a a lot of wide open spaces that suit mice nicely. Combine that with years of storage with no use and you get an epic mouse nest.

Oil level is too high and thin from fuel. Check for stuck carburetor float or debris in fuel bowl or inlet needle.

It may also happen if the unit was moved and tipped at a severe angle.

Try disconnection oil level sensor. If problem goes away, replace sensor.

25kva-3125kva Diesel generator set: www.dieselgeneratortech.com

If you need to have a new diesel generator set, please visit at the good website, the quality is very good, so i recommend it to you. This is the website: https://www.dieselgeneratortech.com/diesel-generator

Armature coil needs to be coaxed out, slight tap on the metal base with a screwdriver should take care of this.

Most generators are self energising. Residual magnetism in the armature causes a small output as soon as the alternator is turning at speed and circuitry feeds the small output through the brushgear into the armature to begin the energising cycle until the rated output is reached. As you obtain an output from the stator by "artificially" energising the armature, it is clear there is a fault in the control circuitry. There are wiring diagrams online but they aren't easy to follow...

There are reset breakers on the control panel. If the 110 outlets are GFI protected then the issue could be your cord or appliance. Please try some other type of item (Tool or lamp). If the breaker was over whelmed and tripped the breaker. The breaker is labeled and mounted on the control panel as well. Please write back if there is anything else.

Briggs and stratton generator avr how to text. "Text"??

Then you need fuel! Make sure the gas is turned on. Pull the sparkplug after a few tries and see if it's wet with fuel or smells like it. Thats all a motor needs is spark and fuel! Well air too.

Possible but not likely. Wipe off the excessive oil and try to ascertain where it is leaking. Possibly loose hardware needs tightening or a gasket replaced. Could also be a crankshaft seal.

He Harry, its never fun when you work on something and its worse than when you started.. Take it to a qualified professional..

tankfilter not sludged tank fuel tap filter working clean it fuel hoses good ?(allways first take airfilter off in case of test temporarily) clean it with some fuel if its need will sometimes help) carburetor float chamber the sprinkler . in most cases the OILLEVEL can be to low level it to the right position The oil level must be against the screw of the dipstick if nothing helped disconnect the Oil surveillance but only Temporarily try it look the sparkplug for a good blue colored spark is the compression good the valves also old fuel isnt not allways a problem only when compression is bad because of Octane number

if YOU HAVE OLD ARMITURE YOU COULD GET REPAIRED OR REWOUND BY MOTOR REPAIR SHOP PRONTO ELECTRIC DOES THIS THEY ARE IN CHICAGO IL. ON NORTH SIDE

Google it

Test the coil electrically A digital multimeter is required for testing the resistance levels of the ignition coil. The terminals of the coil are going to be marked "negative" and "positive," and these are the two points where the resistance of primary winding can be measured. Step 1: Prepare the multimeter To check a 12 volt coil, set the multimeter to at least a 200 Ohms setting. Attach both leads of the meter to the coil-terminals with black to the negative terminal and red to the positive one. Step 2: Test the resistance The normal, acceptable range for a standard 12-volt car is 1.5 to 1.7 Ohms. See if the reading is within this range. Step 3: Test the secondary coil resistance Set the meter to 20K Ohm setting, and attach the leads to the ignition coil's center terminal. The reading for secondary-coil resistance should be 11, because if it is lower