20 Most Recent Kohler CH25 PA-CH730-0040 Command Gasoline Engine - Page 2 Questions & Answers

if it bolts to engine side, looking at it , gas suction in on right ,discharge is on left ,

It may be flooding slightly. You should also always have a fuel stabilizer in the tank. "StaBil" is a good product.

That sounds VERY much like a faulty automatic choke.

That engine shouldn't have any rectifier.

Probably a stuck needle and seat valve. It could also be dirt or varnish in the carb. If so then you will need to take the carb apart and spray it with carb cleaner then wipe it off. I'l bet thet you probably stored it with gas in the tank without any gas stabilier. Good luck, Marty

good range would be 90 to 100psi

most of the timing on this type of engine requires the alignment of the dots on the cam shafts with the dots on the crankshaft. Only other timing required would be the coil leg gap to the flywheel magnets. Most of these require approx 12 thousand clearance.

Here are several things to check: Make sure the battery is fully charged at 12.5 volts Check all battery and wiring connections. If anything is loose or dirty, clean and tighten. If everything is good there, the problem is either in the key switch or the starter relay. Try jumpering the relay input from the key switch. if that works consistently, then the problem is in the key switch. if not, then probably in the relay.

Why is the engine overheating? Air cooled engines will overheat when running too lean a fuel mixture. Is the spark plug colour indicating too lean a fuel mixture?

I wouldn't use it. Google "non-ethenal fuel" with your zip code and you can find a local station that sells non-ethenal fuel.

Perhaps you would enjoy the entire service manual. Here it is: http://www.asberry.net/files/TP-2379.pdf

Even though the engine is 13 years old but has low hours it could just be that the rings are gummed up and sticking in the groves and not doing their job properly. Before you consider pulling the engine apart for a ring replacement and bore hone, you could try this procedure.
Remove spark plugs and pour some engine flushing product like Wynns or Nulon into each cylinder. Turn engine over by hand to distribute the flush around the pistons and allow to sit for a day or so turning the crank occasionally and adding small amounts as the flush drains past the rings. The flush should soften any build-up of gum around rings and the bore. Before replacing plugs use a torch to see that there is not excessive flush sitting on top of pistons. If so wind over with starter to blow out excess. Replace plugs and put any remaing flush in sump and then fast idle engine until hot and then drain and replace oil and filter (if one fitted).
However if rings are badly worn there may not be much improvement and it is possible the oil use will increase. The cylinder with the badly fouled plug may also have a broken ring/s. Oill changes should be done every year or after 50 hours running, whichever comes first.
Let me know how you get on by posting a comment. Myki R

Your fuel mixture is way too rich, check carb and choke, also check airfilter and housing

It sounds like you made a bad valve adjustment and it has thrown a rod, and binding on one cylinder, hence partial turnover, cylinder on compression. Pull apart again and re-check.