20 Most Recent Ryobi Thickness Planer Blades Questions & Answers

They call it a "plate joiner".Go tohttp://manuals.ryobitools.com/system/files/5567/original/jm80_239_eng.pdf?2011

HI I HAVE THE SAME MACHINE AND MY FEED ROLLERS HAVE JAMMED SO AN EXPLODED DIAGRAM MIGHT BE HANDY AS I PULL IT APART
COULD YOU PLEASE EMAIL ME A COPY OF IT TO
PETER BULLARD AT [email protected]
THANKS PETER

Click on the link below to order a replacement set of 12" blades for your Ryobi AH115
http://www.amazon.com/PLANER-BLADE-SET-AH115-RYOBI/dp/B000P8QN8U

CHECK THE ROLLERS THAT PULL THE WOOD THRU, I HAD TO REPLACE MINE FOR THE SAME REASON.
IF THEY HAVE A LOT OF USE YOU WILL SEE WORN FLAT SPOTS ON THE ROLLERS CAUSING THIS PROBLEM

Here is a link for a PDF file of the manual (in English) on your TP13002 Planner:

http://www.ridgidparts.com/pdf/TP13002.pdf

Hope this helps.

If you have the remnants of the old belt, take it to a well stocked hardware or auto parts store. If the belt is missing, you will need to measure the width of the outer 'V' on either pulley, the diameters of both pulleys, and the distance from shaft center to shaft center. The folks at the store can compute the proper belt width and length from that. Be sure to set the motor position so that there is about 3/8 to 1/2 inch deflection of the belt at mid-point and that the two pulleys are in the same vertical plane. This will greatly increase the belt life. Hope this helps!

I think you are talking about what is commonly called "snipe". This is an inherent problem with all planers, but especially with heavier cuts. You can take lighter cuts, or you can start with a board longer than your intended finish length. You can also put the board you are planing on top of a longer board, then feeding them through together.

How to change belt on a ap10 thickness planer

You mean you're getting speed bumps? Do you have the blade setting tools that came with the planer? You need them, it will be hard to do without them. It is a little C shaped jig that rides on the drum over the knife, you have your knife sharpened and set in the drum, snug, not tight,under the knife are adj screws, you run the knife setter around the drum and just scrap the top of the knife, do not pull the knife, just go over it barely scraping it, then snug it up, do not tighten anything yet, move on to the next screw, do the same thing, then the last screw, then go back to the first, still good? second, third, now, tighten them up, the setter doesn't pull the knife, just barely scrapes it, but it does hit it. Now do the other side. Both knives will be set the same, no more speed bumps, or uneven cuts. To move the knife back in, if you brought it out too far, use a block of wood to tap it down, make sure you put the elevation screw down first. Do not answer the fone while doing this. It is serious stuff, when those knives start flying. Hope this helps.

Here is the Ryobie support web site . You may still be able to get the manual for your service planer.
https://register.ryobitools.com/customer_session/new

go to tool parts direct and order one

go to home depot and purchase DELTA 12 1/2 inch blades. make sure they are centered so they don't rub the sides of the housing or grind off a little bit off each end.

It can be fixed....I assume when you say the blades won't engage that the motor does come up to speed.
It's been years and years since I took one apart, I think they have a newer model out now
At any rate, there's a drive belt on one side and a chain on the other. You could have broken a link in the chain. You might have burned the belt..
You're going to have to start pulling covers off and take a look. If you're not mechanically inclined, there are usually small tool repair shops associated with most major metro areas that have factory certified techs who can do the repairs for you.
If you are handy, and feel up to it, here's a link to a site that will help you find parts and see diagrams of its innards.
Good luck, and I hope this advice proves remotely helpful..
If so, please take just a moment and rate this posting...thanks.

Surely you have some mounting screws for the Knives, don't you? You may have to loosen those and Re-set your Cutter Depth & Level. I use a "Step-Gauge" to do that with. In some Rare Cases you may have to shim to attain the desired results.

Can't seem to find anything for the JM80 but found this for the JM82. Not sure how different they are, hope this helps.

http://www.ryobitools.com/product_manual/file_url/601/JM82K_493_trilingual_02.pdf

This is probablly a serious problem. The noise could be from several sources mechanical or electrical. The consumables in this are the brushes in the motor. If they are getting very short, they may break contact momentarily and this will creat a magnetic bang as the motor current breaks and is re-applied. The motor brushes should be inspected and replaced and maybe commutator turned if grooved. Another thing is a failing ball bearing. When a failure starts to happen the ball and race can Brinell and spaul off some of the case hardening. Occasionally a ball will "jam" causing a suddeen torque which will be a pounding sound. I would replace the bearings as they are bound to be available at a local bearing supply house and are not that expensive. You have gotten good service out of this tool. Checking the condition of the belt is another thing to do as this may be a gear belt and if it slips a tooth that will make a similar noise. The most important of these suggestions is the brushes in the motor as they can burn the armature and commutator requiring replacement which is expensive if available.

You can get the manual on the link below.

http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/ryobi_tool/JP155.pdf

Good Luck please rate 4 thumbs up and please leave a testimonial

I have this manual (17 pages) if you still need it. I could scan it and email to you. How do we get in touch?

You may download a copy of the manual here.

I can send you pics of the one I made from plywood for this same jointer. If you're looking for an original I can't help you there.