20 Most Recent Hitachi 3 - 1/2" Full Roundhead Framing Nailer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

http://www.saws.com/shared/pdf/C10FCE2-owners-manual.pdf

Examine exhaust tube under valve for cracks and make sure that the tube seals correctly against body of the gun with rubber gasket. If tube is ok and has rubber gasket in place, check for correct cylinder movement. Press down cylinder with thumbs, the cylinder should return. If it stays down, pull it back up. If it is very hard to pull up, cylinder orings too tight or body of gun is warped. If it comes up with light to firm pull, go ahead and reinstall the head and test. If air leaks, try bumping the head of the gun (with air connected) against firm rubber to reset the cylinder against headvalve. If it still leaks, suspect that the cylinder is not moving up against the headvalve due to tight fit. Remove the cylinder and sand surfaces where orings contact to remove fine scratches with 400 grit paper. Also stretch the spring below the cylinder a bit to exert more pressue. Lube the cylinder with silicone paste lube. If you suspect warped body, remove all the orings from middle section the gun and insert the cylinder into body looking for out of round (with no orings the cylinder should just slide in to body of gun easily). Good luck

INTERNAL O RING IS SHOT

Several things to check. Could be caused by bent driver, cracked lower bumper or bad check seal. Remove the head and pull out the driver and cylinder. Examine the driver for bends and make adjustment or replace as needed. If driver looks good, look for cracks or missing pieces on lower bumper where piston makes contact during lowest position. If bumper is in good shape look for check band around outer lower part of cylinder. Check seal is usually black rubber band covering series of holes or could be oring instead of band. Replace as needed. If all parts look good, make sure that piston moves rather easily up and down cylinder. Replace oring to piston if piston drops down cylinder under its own weight. Good luck

Likely that debris is lodged between driver and body of nose or bent driver. Easy fix however.
After many broken drivers, I keep and old driver in my tool box and insert it into the nose of the gun. I have ground the driver slightly thinner to allow for debris or the driver that I am pushing with will also get stuck. A couple of swift raps (use a heavy copper or brass hammer to prevent chips of metal from blasting at you) should push the driver back up into position allowing you to clear debris.
If after a couple of hits and the driver seems stuck solid, suspect broken driver. Remove the head and see if the driver piston looks cocked at angle. If cocked, driver broken. Remove cylinder and remove broken driver. If piston looks square in the cylinder, most likely very stuck driver.
With cylinder removed place body of gun on plywood and hammer on the rod that you are using to push.
After clearing problem and with the gun open, clean all parts with diesel fuel and lube with silicone paste lube (or nail gun lubricant). No need to replace orings if there were no leaks. Look at the lower bumper for cracks and replace as needed. Also make sure that the black band fits snugly around cylinder (black band is one way valve, causes piston to return to top).
Good luck with repair

Hitachi nailers use an unusual design of actually moving the cylinder to fire instead of moving the headvalve. If the cylinder gets stuck in the open position (down), air will leak out of the head. To reset the cylinder, remove the nails and connect air supply. With air connected, lightly rap the head of the nailer against coiled air hose or soft rubber (too hard of a hit could damage the head). If after a couple of hits air still leaks, remove head and check headvalve for cracks. Replace as needed. If headvalve rubber looks ok, remove cylinder and clean/lube. If cylinder has fine scratches where orings make contact, sand smooth with 400 grit sandpaper. Lube with silicone paste, white grease or nailer oil.

Does the arm move to bend the rebar??? If not you have a problem that I would not recommend trying to fix on your own. I have worked on them and to disassemble and repair is quite difficult. What I would try first is underneath there is a plate with 2 screws and under that is a sensor to let the tool know where the arm is. remove that and while the tool is on its side squeeze and HOLD the trigger to see if the gear moves. Also while in operation you need to hold the trigger and when it reverses you will hear a small popping noise which is normal. But again if the arm doesn't even try to move while holding the trigger, I would find a reputable service center to take a look at it.

Have you used any kind of lubricant on the nailer?

How often do you add oil to the nail gun? Add a couple of drops of air tool oil where you hook on the air hose. Your seals are probably dry,allowing air to escape past the o-rings. If that doesn't work you'll have to get a rebuild kit from your dealer or order it on line and replace your o-rings.

THAT WILL BE ALL YOU NEED. ENJOY THE TOOL

No luck finding one but this guide for the Hitachi P12RA should be enough to get you going.

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i3d/01/A/man-migrate/MANUAL000006339.pdf

Good luck

generally when charging the light will be red until a full charge is indicated and the light will turn green. if while trying to charge the light remains green I would try reinserting the battery or charging unit. If still the same you might have a problem with either.

no will load but jamm

It might need a simple valve reset. With air connected and nails removed, hit head against rubber pad or coiled rubber hose. Hit squarely so not to damage the head. It should reset. This usually happens when orings fit tightly or lack of lubrication. Good luck

it could be you are using the wrong nails, the gun should describe the correct angle and size.

Go to the address below and look for your model number of nailer. At the bottom of the page for your gun find the pdf files for manual and parts listing.

http://www.hitachipowertools.com/

If orings fit too tight cylinder will not move against the headvalve seal (headvalve is the black rubber or vinyl seat in the head). To help the cylinder reset, bump the head against rubber matt. If the cylinder resets, good to go, if however the cylinder does not move into position, remove the head and check that cylinder moves up/down about 1/4 inch. If it does not move pull cylinder and use 400 grit sandpaper on cylinder where orings contact. Remove all scratches and reinstall. Good holidays