20 Most Recent Kohler Cimarron 2-PC Elongated Toilet with EcoSmart Technology, Left-Hand T... - Page 2 Questions & Answers

You will probably need to change the entire valve. Get a new valve that has a built in float and you can take all those old faulty parts out. Turn the water valve off under the stool, flush the stool once maybe twice to get all the water out of the tank. Have a big towel ready, because when you take the valve loose from the stool you will have a little water escape out the hole. The nut that holds the valve to the tank is under the tank. You will also have to take the supply water line loose from the valve.. You should probably go ahead and change the rubber flapper , which is located in the center of the inside of the tank. A new valve and flapper can be purchased at any hardware store.

If it has a flapper in the bottom of the tank, the flapper is probably stuck open due to something restricting it or may be just worn out. Take the top of the tank and look directly down at the center. Flush the stool and you will see the flapper come up. A few seconds it should go back down and seal the outlet.

If there is a continual leak in to the toilet bowl you will likely need to replace the flush valve or the toilet flapper.

As a first step try try cleaning the sealing surface of the flush valve to se if the flapper will seat and make a seal.

If this does not work and the flapper is visibly detioriated and breaking down shut off the water supply, remove the toilet flapper and visit your local plumbing supply store to purchase a suitable replacement. Install the new flapper, turn on water supply.

These illustrated instruictions may also assist:

http://www.danco.com/HowTo/How-To-Replace-a-Toilet-Flapper

Although less likely, if the sealing surface of the flush valve is damaged or detioriated proceed with replacement of the flush valve. Again turn off water supply and follow the instructions set out here:

http://www.danco.com/HowTo/How-To-Replace-a-Flush-Valve

If there is not a leak in to the toilet bowl and the water flow does not shut off completely, then water is flowing through the fill valve and the overflow pipe and you may need to adjust the float and float rod to allow clsoure of the fill valve. See here:

http://www.danco.com/HowTo/How-To-Replace-a-Float-and-Float-Rod

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/1084447_2.pdf

Fluid master ballcock,counter clockwise,water level should be 1'' below overflow tube,you'll probubly have to adjust a few times (flushes) to get it right

Hi, W/D here.

Three things can affect the flushing force of an ultraflush:
1. The amount of water going into the bowl from the tank. Check to make suer that the water level in the tank is up to the fill line. Normally the line is cast into the inside of the tank, but may be on the tube. Adjust if low.
2. The supply water pressure. An ultraflush requires 25 psig pressure to provide the assist in flushing. Make sure that your toilet water supply line valve (at the wall) is fully open. If so, check your water supply pressure. The easiest way is to install a gauge on an outside faucet (you can get a gauge in the sprinkler section of the hardware store, and it attaches to a faucet). You may need to replace your flexible water supply line; they can collapse internally, or get debris in them.
3. Restrictions in the outflow. A bit harder to check, but the tell-tale sign would be if the water level rises significantly, and drains slowly.
My best guess is that the assist pressure is low, and I'd look for restrictions in the supply side first.

Best regards, --W/D--

Hi, if you remove the cistern lid and flush the toilet, look at the float (back left) to see if this is rising freely when the water fills back up. Once the water has stopped filling, check the fill level lines on the large syphon in the middle of cistern. Your model of toilet has an eco flush which will be lowest line to save water, so not as much water will flush out. There is a long plastic screw on the float (back left) which you can turn to adjust the water level to the higher line on syphon (1.6 gallon flush) and turn it slowley till the water level reaches that mark. flush a couple of times to see it is filling back up to the set amount.

It is clogged up, needs to be plunged, If you have a clean-out that you can peek in, see if the water flows by fast there or not, It could just be at the bowl. If not, you will need to snake the clean-out or the vent through the roof. I had a job once where the water stopped up and I couldn't find the clog, so I had to saw the pipe in a few places till I found it, and when I let it go, It went. All over the place. It was in 3 inch pipe that is supposed to drain, it didn't, so check it out, hope this helps.

The tube fits into a slot that holds it in place.
The tube doesn't go loose into the overflow pipe.
Look at the overflow pipe, and you will see a slot where the tube fits in.

If the tube fits loose in the slot, try wrapping tape around the small hose so it fits tighter.
Put one wrap of tape first, and then add another wrap, etc unit tube holds

http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/1113631_2.pdf simple adjustments needed

This usually indicates one of two things: (1) a poorly seated flush valve ball, which can be easily adjustedor replaced, or (2) a flush handle chain that is too long and is getting caught between the flush valve ball and the seat, which is easily remedied by shortening the chain between the flush handle and the flush ball.

check fill tube from the fill valve to the flush valve, if the end of the hose is close to the watr level it will back syphon.... recommend also putting in better inner components.. fluild master 400 a fill valve and a nice red korky flapper

take the uper cover fo the toilet. check for the chain, that chain goes to the balon with air that usualy goes up when water is filling in and stop the water.

so, check for that chain to be long enough (it can be regulated ussually). the problem relies that id the chain is too short the reservoir or tank of water cannot fill up to a 100% to siphoning fast enough.

http://www.ehow.com/video_117350_stop-toilet-running.html

http://www.google.com/search?q=replacing+flapper&hl=en&sa=G&rlz=1T4GZAZ_enUS363US364&prmd=v&source=univ&tbs=vid:1&tbo=u&ei=S3AcTNrBGYL6lwfN1NmnDg&oi=video_result_group&ct=title&resnum=4&ved=0CCoQqwQwAw

The above link's has videos and information about this problem.

A couple of thing's to check the fill tube in the tank is it connected from the fill valve to over flow. This fill's th ebowl up with the required amount of water.
Next is the water filling to the line on the fill tube with in 5/8 " from top of tube. Adjust the float to get it with in the fill amount required.

The chain on the flapper need's some slack, you just have to move it a little till it get's adjusted right. Water level low in the tank will affect the flapper also.

I hope this will be of some help for you.

Check the float in your tank and watch it and make sure it is not hitting the sides of the tank to not allow it to fill up.

First, try to tighten the bolts securing the tank to the bowl. If that does not stop the leak, you can buy replacement parts at your local home improvement or hardware store. Before you go to the store, count how many bolts secure the tank to the bowl so you know which repair kit to buy.

hi, the tile is supposed to go under the toilet flange (the thing you put the wax ring on), very common "oops", can be rectified by placing another wax ring right on top of the first on. best to make the first one a "horn type" wax ring, then put the plain one (no horn) on top of first and try to smoosh it on just enough to stay in place so when you install toilet it doesn't move,.....cheers!