20 Most Recent
Connecticut Electric Square D Packaged Circuit Breaker Questions & Answers
No power to the receptacles on a circuit, the
No breakers are tripped and a circuit is dead.
There is a loose wire.
Let me explain how it works. Each 120V breaker has a black wire that leaves breaker box. The black wire is accompanied by a white neutral wire and a bare ground wire. These wires are sheathed in plastic, and altogether they make up a romex cable.
The cable leaves the circuit breaker box and travels to the first junction box. The junction box is a ceiling box that holds light or fan -or- a wall box containing switch or plug. As a general rule, the romex leaves the breaker box and travels all the
way to a junction box located right in the area where lights and plugs
are located. The romex does not stop at a junction boxes located in other room.
Inside the junction box, the romex splits and goes to the next junction box, and then to the next box, and the next.
So the plugs in one room are all connected together by a single romex cable that started back at the breaker box. And a single romex wire from the breaker box arrived at one of the junction boxes located in immediate vicinity of dead receptacle.
Here's what happened. A wire came loose somewhere between the breaker and the dead receptacles.
The loose wire is probably in a receptacle.
Here's what to do.
1) Breaker first: You can isolate the suspect breaker by identifying all other breakers. Then tighten screw on suspect breaker. Look for white wire and ground wire associated with the romex cable that connects to breaker >> tighten those screws on neutral busbar. Look for burning around suspect breaker. Is there a burning smell indicating breaker is bad?
2) Receptacles Next. Use ordinary tester. Test each receptacle. Receptacle has two rectangular prong holes and one round hole located below other two. The round hole is the ground. Breaker is turned on. Test each rectangular hole to ground. You have to test both prongs to ground.
The loose wire is right there in the vicinity of dead receptacles.
Test one receptacle and then move to next receptacle. At some point the tester will light up. Now click suspect circuit breaker to see if that receptacle is on breaker. Test receptacle with breaker off and breaker on. If that receptacle is on the suspect breaker, then a loose wire is inside that receptacle box >> or inside the next box. Many times, the wires are pushed into 'quick-connects' located on back of receptacle ... wires get loose ... you need a small screwdrive to release quick-connect, and then wrap wire around screw -or- replace receptacle
If none of receptacles show electricity, then loose wire is inside a switch box, or it is inside a ceiling box located in same general area. Check your switches first. Look for quick-connects, or signs of burning. Look for loose wire nut. Plug light into dead receptacle. Pull switch out with wires attaches. Power is on. Move switch around to see if dead receptacles shows electricity. Move to next switch. The loose wire is there somewhere.
Finally the ceiling box. Take down light and see if there is a loose wire inside. Look for signs of heat or burning.
How would I connect 3 different wires to a plus to receive power one wire is from 3 outlets one is from a spotlight one is from a shed ?
Assuming Chuck, you are speaking of three separate circuits and you want to connect them into a power panel. If that is correct, I also assume you have along with the three hot conductors (wires), three neutral (white) wires. If these assumptions are correct, install three breaker into your panel and attach each circuit into these new breakers. A word of caution, Ensure the white conductors are connected to the neutral bar where all other white wires are connected. Saying all of this, I now suggest you either get an electrician to do the job or at least get someone with more knowledge than you have to help. Improperly installed electrical service is hazardous not only to the structure but it is DEADLY. Good luck.
I need more power in my kitchen, what would it involve?
Most probably if you ask here. The main electrical grid should have 3 incoming cables you can use as a power source. So usually you have 3 banks with fuses in there. You need to change part of the kitchen with something you do not use so often.
If there is one outgoing wire for the whole kitchen you need to put a new one in- this is some work.
Can 40mp dryer and 40 mp range be computable
Hi - I'm an electrician an would like to help you with your question.But - Umm.. huh?By "40mp" Do you mean 40 amp? They are both "computable" but I suspect that you meant compatible. If so, yes, 40 amps is 40 amps regardless of what it supplys, as long as the wire is the right type and size. I haven't seen a 40 amp residential dryer though. Residential electric ranges and electric dryers are both 240 volts - but the dryer is usually a 30 amp circuit (#10 copper) and protected by a double pole 30 amp circuit breaker. The range is a 40 amp circuit (#6 aluminum) and protected by a double pole 40 amp circuit breaker.If this doesn't answer your question, please explain in greater detail.
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