20 Most Recent Lutron Electronic Low-Voltage Multi-Location Dimmer by Electronics, Inc - Page 4 Questions & Answers

Most switches have two openings at each terminal. One is round to accept the stripped wire and the second is square / rectangular. The second opening is to insert a small screw driver and gently press in. This pushes the spring steel out of the way and allows the the wire to be withdrawn. You must do both at the same time however.Some lack the second opening. In order to relase the wire from the switch, you will need to twist the switch back and forth while pulling the switch and wire apart from each other. Ripping the wire out or cutting the wire off will render the switch useless as it will not be able to grip a wire again. Take your time, and of course, shut the power off.Good luck!

Hi John, I'm an electrician and I think I can help you with this problem.First and foremost, this switch's 2000VA / 1600W electrical rating is based on a incandescent load.Let's do do the math on this one.. 18 x 50 = 900 watts. So, you're under the 1600 watt capacity, but I think this is a bit more involved than this. I'd be willing to bet that you're not dimming a 12 volt circuit - but rather a 120 volt circuit that supplies one or more transformers that step the power down from 120 volts to the the 12 volt bulb voltage. A transformer is an inductive load. A transformer's inductive load is completely different than the incandescent load the dimmer is designed to control. The transformers are rated for 120 volts and will have issues including heat problems if provided less than the rated input voltage to provide a reduced output voltage you want so that you can dim these lights.This switch will not work on the output of the transformer in this situation either because the significant amperage being switched here. Each of these lamps draws a bit over 4 amps as determined by ohm's law: 50W / 12V = 4.16A. The total load at 12 volts is (again, Ohm's law) 18 x 4.16A = 74.88A ! That means the wire would need to be a #4 or #2. This is about the size of the cable on your car's battery (only amperage determines conductor size - voltage determines insulation).A dimmer on this circuit will not work unless the fixtures are changed so that no transformers are used to supply the lamps. This includes fluorescent lamps (compact or otherwise) unless the packaging specifically states that they can be used on a dimmer. You may wish to contact Lutron Hotline at 800-523-9466 for additional help and suggestions. I hope this helps & good luck!

All ground wires should be connected together. If the metal switch box has no visible ground wires in the cable assembly itself, then there is nothing to connect. It is possible that if the cables consist of an armored or metal jacket that it is providing an earth ground. The clamp that holds the armored cable in the switch box provides the continuity of the ground path in to the box and out again on any other armored cable(s). You can install a short 3/8" #10 x 32 machine screw into one of the drilled and pretapped holes in the box that is designed to provide a way to bond the ground conductor to the box. Screws like the one below are designed for this, but you can use any screw you like that fits.A green, hex head #10 x 32 ground screw for switch boxes.If the box is a non-metalic type and there is no metal clamps connecting armored cables or ground wires inside and bonded to the box, then there is no connection to be made. If the wire on the dimmer is insulated, either cut off the stripped end or place a wirenut over the end and fold the wire into the rear of the box - out of the way. If it is bare, carefully fold to the rear of the box and make sure it does not contact any live conductors. There will be no need to access it again unless installing the switch elsewhere, later.

If you are dimming it, use:
MS-OP600M-WH & MA-R-WH

If you are only planning on switching it, use:
MS-OPS6M-DV-WH & MA-AS-WH

if your breaker keeps tripping you ether have to many amps running or a wire came loose good luck

You don't really have enough information on here to diagnose this. It could be the wiring, it could be defective product, it could be that you have the wrong equipment on each end of the three-way. I would suggest getting a model number of the dimmer, and provide an understanding of what equipment you have setup at both switch locations.

That being said, do yourself a favor - rather than try to solve it through this forum which is going to take hours, if not days, to illicit a response - call the company directly. They're at 1-800-523-9466. They have free technical support, they're available 24/7, and can go through the full Q&A process to help you out.

You will need to return the 3-way dimmer and get a single pole dimmer, as the Lutron Skylark series is suspectible to failure if connected to a live circuit first, or misconnected at intial installation. As an electrician, I ceased using these dimmers years ago, due to the rash of call-backs by customers and went with Leviton togglers and have had excellent results.

If you purchased it at a 'big box' store, they will accept the return as a defective item, as they have national agreements with their suppliers to accept customer returns. Just tell them it didn't work and you want a store credit, you can then purchase the lower priced single pole dimmer you need and save some money in the process too.

Hope you find this Very Helpful - best regards!

This is a common concern with dimmers, but if you're seeing no issue with the actual lighting performance, then what you are experiencing is completely normal. Most of the heat that people notice comes from the screws that attach the faceplate, in which case my recommendation is to get a faceplate that covers up the screws. If that doesn't answer your concern, then call Lutron's tech support center at 1-800-523-9466 (available 24/7) and they can walk you through any troubleshooting you may need.

These in-wall devices stop working and need to be replaced from time to time.
There are no repair parts.
Generally dimmers don't last as long as ordinary light switch, because they are electronic instead of mechanical.

Lutron makes the widest selection of dimmers.
http://www.lutron.com/Products/StandAloneControls/Dimmers-Switches/Pages/DimmersSwitches.aspx

Use link above to identify dimmer.
For example Skylark dimmer.

Then google search for a replacement.
For example: single pole 600 watt lutron skylark dimmer
Or: 3-way 600 watt skylark dimmer
Lutron also makes 1800 watt dimmers for larger loads.

Add a comment any time if you need more help.

You can also take advantage of fixya phone service.
Fixya expert will talk with you via phone for a price.

The issue you describe is pretty open-ended. Rather than diagnose through e-mail, you'd be much better off calling their tech support service at 1-800-523-9466. They're available 24/7 and can ask the right questions to point you in the right direction.

Thank you for including the Manufacturer, Model and Model number
Lutron makes a long list of products.

I found the product manual at Lutron: and am looking at the instructions
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/033100b.pdf

The Lutron device replaces an ordinary single pole switch.
It is not made to control compact florescent bulbs, just incandescent bulbs.
The switch has to have a ground wire.
Lutron tech assistance 1-800-523-9466 (included just in case I cannot find the trouble)
Troubleshooting in manual: They mention 'upper LED on wall control cycle rapidly.'
The solution is to check wiring, which we will review.
The fan and lights are supposed to be on high (this means your pull chain controls located on fan)

Let's review the wiring.
The switch wires connect to either brass screw.
The switch wires are usually black. Let's say they are black.
One of the black switch wires travels to fan in a cable.
This cable has 2 wires: a black and white.
This cable goes to fan.
The black wire carries power to the fan.
The power wire, or Hot wire from switch connects to the Module-black wire.
The Module-white wire connects to the Neutrals (which are white and usually twisted together and covered with a wire nut).
So all your Neutrals are joined together and covered with wire nut.
The Module-red wire connects to light-wire
The Module-yellow wire connects to fan-wire.

I'm looking at this wiring and it seems so straightforward, I can't find a problem.
According to the troubleshoot, the fan could NOT work properly if the wires were reversed at the Module.
The switch wires connect to either terminals, so there's no confusion there.

1) Unless you forgot the ground wire, or 2) you're using compact florescent bulbs, or 3) the light is not on high, I can't see where the problem is.
I suggest you call the Lutron tech support number.
They may suggest a circuit analyzer, for example a small voltage ground fault in the line might affect their device.
In any case, I want to know how this turns out because I specialize in electrical devices.
Add a comment and keep me updated.

If your dimmer was working correctly in the past, and suddenly started doing this, then your dimmer is probably gone bad.

If this is a new installation, the wiring could be wrong, or the dimmer could be wrong.
For example you purchased the companion or accessory dimmer rather than the main dimmer.
Or the wiring is put on the wrong screw.

If this is a new installation, add a comment and fill in the information and I can troubleshoot.

What is the model number of your dimmer.
For example the Maestro MIR600.
Are you replacing a single-pole switch or a 3-way switch?
Are you using 2 dimmers in a 3-way application?
What color are the screws on your dimmer?
What color are your wires and which screw do they go to?

Without more detail, there's not much info to be provided here. Their tech support, however, is available 24/7 to give you a pretty quick response. I advise getting the model number of whatever "panel" you're referring to - and if you can't, at least be prepared to describe what the thing looks like. Their number is 1-800-523-9466

Lutron rocker switch also called a Decora style