Leviton Decora Gray Rocker 4-Way AC Quiet Switch - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

in order to wire a 4 way switch, there needs to be a total of 3 switches working to operate a device/light. you need a 2-wire coming from power source, 3-wire from first switch to 4-way switch then 3-wire to last switch. white wires (neutral) get connected together. Depending on the layout of the switches. i.e where the power comes from and where the switch leg goes to but a basic 4 -way switch is in between 2 other 3-way switches.

If you have a four way, it should mean you have two other three ways. lf so, wires are probably crossed. At each three way, you should have one wire on the dark screw. At one end, this wire will be the hot. At the other end, this wire goes to the light. At each three way, you still have two screws. these are the same color screw, and the wires on these are called travelers. They should only run switch to switch. When you have a four way, it is just in the middle of this run. so, two wires coming from one 3 way, and two wires coming from the other 3 way. Look on the box for the new four way, or see if it shows you which screws are in and out. Then hook up accordingly

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It is unclear how many screws are on the switch you are testing.

If your switch does not show ohms when the switch is in one position, then it sounds like the switch is bad. But you can read information below for more information about your testing.
You can also add a comment and continue the discussion.

Let me provide more information about switches because you seem interested in electricity and the information may help us understand where the other is coming from in case you add a comment needing more help:
2 screws on switch: (excluding ground screw)
An ordinary single-pole switch usually has 2 brass colored screws.
These screws only read ohms or continuity when switch is in one position.
When the switch is in the other position, there are no ohms that pass through the switch.

3 screws on switch: (excluding ground)
A 3-way switch has 3 screws. There are 2 brass-colored screws and one dark-colored screw.
Put ohm tester on dark screw and continuity will show between the dark screw and one of the brass screws.
Flip the switch and ohms will test between dark colored screw and the other brass screw.

4 screws on switch. (excluding ground)
There are 2 screws on each side of switch.
This type of switch might be a special purpose double-pole switch.
Or it might be the more common 4-way switch.
Add a comment if you have a switch with 4 screws.

Below is a typical 3-way switch application showing the dark-colored screws:



Here is a typical 4-way switch circuit:
Notice the switch in middle has 4 screws:


Link below goes to a special application double-pole-double-throw switch:
http://waterheatertimer.org/images/30-Amp-DPDT-switch-a-800.jpg

Hi,
Here is a website that has great wiring diagrams for you and also a video about wiring these switches.
Your problem is that you have a "hot" going to a "common at one of the switches when you flip a swtich. This trips the breaker.
It can take alot of time and be very frustrating to find the culprit wire if you are inexperienced with three and four way circuits...it even takes a pro quite a while to figure these out someitmes. And Ohm meter is a must and you need to pull all the switches out with the power off and start tracing out each wire till you find the bad one.
You need to make sure that your switches are wired EXACTLY as the diagram shows.

http://www.askthebuilder.com/B141_3_Way_Switch_Wiring_Diagram_and_4_Way_Switch_Wiring_Diagram.shtml

I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!

Thanks for using Fixya!!

Heatman101

Please review the instructions on the box for both the three and four way switches and review your work. You have a runner wire crossed somewhere.

The wiring method is power into the first 3-way switch, 3-wire to the 4-way switch, 3-wire to the second 3-way switch and 2-wire to the lamp. The way you terminate the wires on the switches is only important on the black terminals of the two 3-ways. Power and load go on these, the rest are just travelers.

Yes, you should have continuity between two screws, two times (total of four screws) If you have continuity between screw 1 and 2, then you should have continuity between screw 3 and 4. You should not (in this example) have continuity between 1 and 3 or 4. Hope this helps

The 4-way terminals are labelled “In” and “Out” (two of each). The mechanics of this switch are simple, in that they either switch the travellers straight through, or criss-cross them.
(2) white wires - 1 on each silver terminal
(2) black wires - 1 on each brass terminal


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there are too many ways to wire a 2 way switch circuit (3 way switch) to mess with, the two most common ways, will trip out the circuit if wired to each other, (one kind at each end, hope that makes sense), the most common mistake, will put 110v to the metal plate of the switch and switch box, not good
a sparky will take 5 minutes to determine which wiring pattern is used, and install the switch

Make sure you are using three way switch's and not plain on/off switch's there is a difference. if you are using 2 plain on/off switch's the lights will only come on when they are both off. Find the power side with a meter. Put the meter on V A/C and hold the leads. One on the white wires that are connected together seperate from the switch. Id the hot wire. Now, go to the other side and id the hot wire on the other switch. Disconnect everthing on both switches. Find the hot wire again and on the side that the hot wire is on, put that hot wire on the bottom black looking phillips screw. Put the other two on the top of the switch. Go to the other switch and put the hot wire (black) on the top. Take the bulb out of the socket and put you meter on the beep continuity. Place one in the socket and find the other by oplacing the probe on the other two wires one at a time. The one that beeps goes on the black phillips screw and the one that doesnt goes on the other screw on the top.

You parallel the contacts then either one or both will turn it on. Both have to be off for the fan to stop.

A Leviton DHC receiver device can look like any other switch or receptacle so if you didn't install it or not provided a map then you'll need to locate it.

Likely the wall switch that originally controlled the light was replaced with DHC device and paired with the 16400 at another location. If you can't identify it, then removing face plates and devices may be the only practical method to locate it.

If your not comfortable with removing devices safely, hire an electrician.

https://www.mc-mc.com/ASSETS/DOCUMENTS/ITEMS/EN/Decora_6375_Catalog.pdf

It's two single pole switches with a removable jumper on one side. With jumper intact, you connect the hot feed to a either screw of the jumper which I belive are brass colored screws.

Then the two induvidual switch poles are the silver screws. Connect fan motor to one and fan light to the other.

If that doesnt work for you, take a picture of the switch and connections and another of wires in fan box and post here.

https://www.leviton.com/sites/REST/controller/LCDownloadController/download/DI-000-VPT24-02F-W.pdf?docurl=/en/docs/DI-000-VPT24-02F-W.pdf Yes, but appears to be non-serviceable... and its probably just a 3.2vdc lithium coin battery inside the case yet they decided to make it so you have to buy a replacement every 10+yrs. Crack it open and see (dill off any rivet heads).

what do you know as "regular " bulbs are they low energy or incandescent

adjust the sensitivity switch

Replace it. They fail and and that is not uncommon. good luck

red never connects to black as that is power to neutral if wired correctly get in a qualified electrician to check the wiring and help you install the unit

yes, take the white wires off the switches and splice them all together with a wire nut. Run a hot wire to each of the switches and then run the switch leg (black) from each of the fixtures to be controlled to each of the dimmers.

If the two load screws are connected with a tab that is the power in side. The color wires are the load.