20 Most Recent Lincoln Electric LINK2400-+1 CV-305 MIG Welder with Options Input Power: 20 Questions & Answers

I need more. But this is a machine worth fixing and if time is money take it to the shop.

Sounds like a bad ground clamp or poor connection. The trigger switch may becoming intermittent too.

different gas mixes will give different amounts of spatter, pure co2 doesnt spatter too bad, flux core spatters like crazy, and 75/25 has light spatter also

Sounds like the trigger is getting worn out.

If the feed wheel itself is not consistent for speed, shoot some contact cleaner into vent of speed control rheostat. if all you have available is WD40, that can sometimes work as a substitute. LPS1 is better though. It may just be dirty. Rotate the knob stop to stop several times to clear the tracks.If that does not correct it what is the resistance between the 2 outer lugs? It should be 2500 Ohms or 5000 ohms in most cases. Regardless of resistance they will be a linear taper. and nominal 2 Watt.These can be ordered through an electronic supply company like Mouser or Digikey if you do not have an electronics supply house in your area.

I am a certified 6-g welder, and you can obtain the wiring prints through a welding supply company that sells lincoln products. Make sure you have the model number, as well as, the serial number. You will not find schematics posted online as this would be a rarely used post, so a dealer would be the fastest, and less time consuming effort.

from the research i have done if you sell it on craigslist 100 is about the most you will get for it. unless you find someone who isnt smart enough to research. fron what i understand you can get about 200 if you dis assemble and recycle.

Go to the following link:

www.weldingsupply.com

try Westermans - used welding machines supplier. They stock the best brands like Lincoln, ESAB, Kemppi and Fronius. They should also have operator manuals for most machines. email them at [email protected] ask for Craig.

Hi Ray,
You can remove the liner from the gun and replace it - probably cost you about $15. Liner comes out from rear of the gun. The rear of the gun (that plugs into the feeder) is removable. Once this is out, you can remove the liner from the rear of the pin. Remove front end consumables, install new liner, cut it to proper lenght at front of the gun, and replace gun back into the feeder, reinstall the front end parts and run wire through and beyond tip, cut it leaving about 1/2". Now you can weld again.

I would guess that you are on the wrong track. Half of the diodes going out would cause problems 60 times per second, which would be too fast to notice. Unless the diodes all shorted and you're essentially running AC now, which is possible, but unlikely. When my wire feed "pushes" like that,it's usually because the tip is burnt or dirty and not making great contact with the wire. Try replacing the copper tip that the wire feeds through. If that doesn't fix it, look for a bad connection on the wire that runs from the diodes to the torch. Good luck.

You don't need an striker with a MIG welder just hook the ground cable to the base metal point the nozzle where you want to weld and pull the trigger and it will weld. Household current will run a MIG welder Take a look at the plug on the welder if it will pug into a 110v outlet you are all set, but most likely you will need a 220v outlet and maybe as much as an electric dryer type outlet. 

It takes a lot of practice to be a decent welder you also need to know what voltage and wire speed settings to use for a given thickness and type of material. 

You don't mention shielding gas, if you are using a flux core wire you don't need it, but if you are using regular wire you do. 

If I may make a suggestion, If you really want to learn how to weld, find a community college near you and take an introductory welding class. You will get a wealth of information and practice on different welding processes. The instructor will work with you and get you welding much better and faster than you will on your own. Most importantly you will get a lot of safety information.

This is a good introductory book:
http://www.amazon.com/Welders-Handbook-RevisedHP1513-Cutting-Oxyacetylene/dp/1557885133/ref=ntt_at_ep_dpt_1

Check all wiring connections first, sounds like a broken / loose wire / terminal. If all checks out may be the transformer has failed. Also look for fuses.
If you have exceeded the "duty cycle" unit will shut down till it cools.

Check the feeder roller....it has grooves built in and may be worn or the tension bar need to be tighten....

Remove the gun assembly off of the unit and carefully remove the liner from the feed tube, at this point you can usually take a spare piece of wire and push it thru the liner and push out the broken wire, if not then pickup a replacement liner from your dealer and install it reverse of the way you took it apart, and you should be back in bussiness. Hope This Helps Don

a mig welder must have a good ground to work, also dont try using rusty wire it will jam in the liner, have you checked you are getting wire feed from the neck? just pull the tright and with the welder on it should feed out, if you can stop it its to loos tighten up the pinch roller, is there power on this wire feed? i have often seen new welders strick up the weld with to slow a wire feed and to many amps running, what happens then is it burns the wire away in one flash, right up inside the welding tip and every thing comes to a grinding holt then???? it can and often will just weld the wire into the tip,, witch may mean a new tip is needed, take off the shroud and try to unscrewing the tip if no wire comes out when you pull the triger
as the wire is stuck or welded to it you may be able to get it out still??? but its best to fit a new one in, go one size bigger than the wire your using at first as you are sure to get it very hot??? untill you get the hang of welding,,, use a good gas mix like argon light it will weld stanless steel as well?? but co2 works well on miled steel only, the problem with co2 is its a cold gas and you need a lot more amps to weld the same thickness of steel use it at about 2 to 4 psi only indoors, out doors use it at 4 - 6 psi and if out doors keep out of the wind as much as you can or it will only blow the gas away from your weld if that happens you cant weld without gas being there as a sheeld, dont try using a no gas welder they are like the devel having a bad hair day to use,
even a good welder wont like one? there c*ap!!!!
only try welding clean steel not rusty steel or it will spit like mad at you and you wont get a good weld,
if at all,,one of the most common fults that is
but i bet you have weded the wire to your tip?
its so easy to do at first,,only two word of warning
keep well raped up, sparks well fly and were gloves',,,
and keep your head sheeld on well over your eyes dont ever ever look at the welder when welding it will burn your eyes realy bad and you will wake up in the night feling like some git has just pored sand into your eyes and its going to hert like hell for day's,,,
i find the solor head sheel is far better, its nearly clear when not welding and go's dark in milliseconds you will like them as you can see what you are doing right up till you strick up the ark then it go's dark,,
most welders last for years iv had mine for the last 35 years it a clark 150 turbo mig, and iv doged it to death too,,,
the only thing that could realy go wrong inside them is the rectifier, mains coil or a relay,, not much left in it to go wrong ,
and now iv bored to death good luck with your welding ,,i hope this has helped you out

You have have an earth fault. have it tested for your own safety.

Try replacing the circuit breaker. They can/do get weak and tend to trip before they actually reach the rated limit.