20 Most Recent Delta Machinery Delta 37-658 Jointer Cutter head Knives for 37-190/195 6 inch Jointers - Se Questions & Answers

I guess the belt isnt fixed up properly leading some mishaps with the tension. Try remounting the belt as below:
Unplug the jointer. Invert it on a thick cloth to protect the blades and the work surface. Underneath you will see a base plate that covers the bottom and is held in place by seven screws. Remove all of the seven screws and set them aside with the baseplate. With the baseplate removed, you will see the power leads running to the main switch and back to the motor.
Remove the hex bolts that hold the motor in place. There are two on one side of the motor (indicated by purple rectangles in the picture), and another one on the other side. Remove them completely to allow the motor sufficient room to move in order to place the drive belt over the motor spindle. If your hex key is not long enough for this job, hold the key in a pair of pliers or vice grip to remove them. (Now that the jointer is disassembled, this is a good time to clean all the motor housing thoroughly and lubricate, if applicable.)
Lift and rotate the motor and attach the drive belt. The motor will not easily return to its normal position. In the picture you can see just how far the motor has been turned to get the drive belt on. Insert the hex bolts again, deep inside a very narrow space, whilst using a fair bit of force to hold the motor in place. This is the difficult part, and you may utter a few choice words at this point and consider some unauthorized modifications to the housing. With patience and persistence you should be able to secure the hex bolts once more and once again have an operational planer/jointer.

Go to eReplacementParts.com : Power Tool Parts and Tool Repair.


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I would either replace the gibs or have the machinist put thread inserts into the larger holes to use the original size screws.

You may be able to find parts for it at Grizzly.com They sell the Tiawan tools but have an extensive inventory parts and the quality of tools is better than the typical Tiawan tools. Just find a model that looks like yours and see if they have the parts. You can order them online. Don't tell them that it's not for a grizzly tool, they don't like to sell parts to ppl who didn't buy thier tools from them. Some of thier tools have been re-engineered.
I've had good luck with thier parts and the tools I've bought from them.

The knives could be dull, you would have to be the judge of that. If the bevel & face are rusty they are probably dull. They can be honed or taken to a sharpening shop.

The outfeed table could also be too high. I usually adjust the knives above the outfeed table. I use an aluminum straight edge & adjust them using a sheet of printer paper on the outfeed table so that they are about the thickness of the paper above the table. I place the paper on the outfeed table put the straightedge on the paper & rotate & adjust each knife so they just slightly hit the straightedge when I rotate the cutterhead by hand. Needless to say the jointer needs to be unplugged while doing this.

The board could also be convex to start with. To fix that problerm start jointing at the start of the convex part and not at the end of the board.

Good luck,
Frank

While the final effects of a stone or concrete wall are stunning, the work to make it beautiful is time-consuming and difficult. Tools are very important in masonry work. Having the right tools for a certain job make all the difference. Jointers come in many different sizes and shapes. Learn the various types and how to use them and you can make quick work of a difficult task. Use an e-jointer for narrower spaces between the stones. There is no handle on the e-jointer, making it easier to smooth and shape the joints between the stones. Whenever your hand is closer to the surface, you can exert more control. Get a bead jointer for raised masonry bricks. These jointers come in two sizes, 1/4-inch by 5/16-inch and 3/8-inch by 1/2-inch. They are small, strong, simple tools that can chip off the excess of a joint that is sticking up off the brink. You do not want to make a deep joint between raised bricks. Change your joint tool to a brick masonry mortar joint raker tool if you are making your project from rougher materials, such as adobe brick or split stone. This tool has many more grooves, which will fit in various sized joints. Turn it on the end for narrow joints and use the curved notch for more intricate patterns between the stones. Switch to a grapevine mortar jointer for very clean lines between the bricks. This tool is used primarily for a colonial look, which is even and measured. Your can get this jointer with a wooden handle for a more even grip.

First, safety stuff: Make sure the jointer is unplugged and be very careful with the knives, they are quite sharp.You should have enough room between the tables to get the knives out, if not remove the stationary, outfeed table. There are four hex-cap screws on each knife that hold the clamp bar on. Remove them with an allen wrench or hex driver if you have one and take the clamp bar and knife out. Pay attention to which way the bevel is on the knife so you put them back on the same way. If the blades have never been turned, they are double sided and can be turned around so the opposite side is out. The knife and clamp bar are designed to go on only the right way. Make sure you get the hex-bolts on very tight. Do the other knife, replace the table and make a couple test runs to check allignment.

I've had good luck finding them at this website, though you'll have to check both the rockwell and delta pages. Look for publication reprints, and when you get to the manufacturer's page, click on the Pub. type heading to sort the column into jointers, table saws, etc. You may be able to find something of comparable age that will have descriptions to help you, as many models had relatively slight variations from one another. I'm not sure what vintage that is, but there are general line catalogs and instruction manuals listed in the Delta pages that go back many years. Some of them will have basic jointer instructions that may directly pertain to your model. Also check that model number carefully. I've not seen letters in their model numbers before. Usually it is two, followed by three digits. Compare this link for an indication of what you could be missing.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
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If it's a newer model you'll be able to find exploded parts diagrams and user manuals here.
Otherwise, check the Delta publications section at this site. Bear in mind you might be able to download a copy of a similar model's manual that will provide most of the information you need for proper use and adjustment of yours. Otherwise consult the many fine reference books available that include sections on proper tune up and adjustment of jointers, from places like Fine Woodworking, Taunton Press, etc. etc. They'll have the basic information about changing knives, adjusting and shimming tables, etc.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

First, unplug the jointer, then, insure that all the cutters are set to the same height. Raise the outfeed table with a straight piece of wood or a framing square sitting on it and extending over the cutters. Each cutter should just touch the board without raising it. The infeed table is lowered by how deep you want to cut.
Always look at the grain of the board you are cutting. Never allow the cutters to strike grain that is running down into the cutters. It will chip out chunks of wood. The grain should be tapering down away from the cutters, back toward you, never toward them.

The tapering you mentioned usually happens when the outfeed table is lower than the cutter tops.

I have this manual (17 pages) if you still need it. I could scan it and email to you. How do we get in touch?

You may download a copy of the manual here.

I can send you pics of the one I made from plywood for this same jointer. If you're looking for an original I can't help you there.

no info generic answer sears.com -----chraftsman.com ------online search using make and model ----stores that carry sears power tools

If you're still interested, please see this answer and follow the links.

I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread.
If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

with high temp refractory mortar for fireplaces

is the recess deep enough on the bed and perp joints if so is the mortar the right consistency. a little tip is to wet the joints with water before jointing. it stop the mortar drying out to quick

On the website http://www.masonryforlife.comthey explain: "Learning to hold the trowel correctly is important and will make the job easier. Gripping the handle with four fingers and putting the thumb on top of the metal band (ferrule) on the handle is how most masons hold a trowel."

kakima is 100% correct, but to add to it so you understand how he got that 27 cubic feet... you can picture a cube. A cubic yard is 3 foot tall x 3 foot wide x 3 foot high. (A cubic foot is 1 foot tall x 1 foot wide x 1 foot high). So 3 x 3 x 3 = 27.

http://www.goldblatttool.com/Manuals/Concrete%20Mixer%2007855.pdf

I do not have a clue as to what you have but a simple switch has two connections and you can connect either way.