20 Most Recent Whirlpool Safety Bath Walk In Bathtub - Standard Without - Page 5 Questions & Answers

If its on a GFCI circuit reset switch.Air button activation - check for loose air tube connections or bad air button.Electronic control - contact a spa technician for diagnostics. If the error is not electricity to the pump or the button(s) controlling the pump - it is likely a bad pump.

Hi,The pump seized up or the motor bearings went bad and seized up...Bottom line is that you will need to remove the pump and motor and take it apart to figure out what is causing the problem....heatman101

sounds like you need maybe pump union o-rings, part # o-49 or the seal might be leaking. If the water is leaking between the plastic wet end and the motor then it is definitely the seal kit which costs about $30 however on a bathtub most pump mfg have quit making replacement parts for them. You will most likely need a new pump in that case. If you can let us know what brand of pump we can assist you in repair or replacement.

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All of the parts of a Whirlpool tub are replacable. you can go to Whirlpool.com and call customer service to get part #s and order or you can patch the hose with applicable materials from a home repair store such as Home Depot or Lowes.

Check with your local plumbing supply shop, there are special self cleaning chemicals to run thru the system, also can be purchased on line.

You can get 2 types of Jacuzzi baths, 1 with just a pump which just jets the water via a small pump or 1 with the pump and elements that heats the water aswell as pumps the water through the jets. Because the 1 with the elements has a higher amp rating you need to run a cable from your distribution board to your bath but the 1 without the elements you will be able to tap off the nearest socket to the bath, you will be coming from your socket to a fused spur outlet, it would be better to get a switched fused spur outlet as you will be able to isolate the bath when not in use just by switching off the switch. from the spur outlet you will be wiring it into your motor on the bath, it should say the rating of the pump in amps on the tally plate of the motor or on the manual. For example if it says the motor draws 2 amps you will be putting a 3 amp fuse into your spur outlet so if there is a fault with the motor the fuse will blow instead of tripping the whole socket circuit. All jucuzzi baths has to be connected to the RCD side of your distribution board. If you are tapping off a socket don't worry about the RCD because all sockets should be on the RCD anyway, to check that the socket is connected to the RCD plug something into the socket you are tapping off of and press the test button on the RCD, the RCD should trip and while this is tripped check the lamp or whatever you plugged in shoud be off. The Fused spur should be fitted outside of the bathroom.

The down tube in the tank has fallen off or the hot and cold lines are reversed at the tank. I'm going to assume it is gas , if its electric you need to test the heating elements for continuity and temp settings. as well as the down tube in the top of the tank that sends the cold water feed to the bottom of the tank..

There are several things to check.
the first and most likely is that you have a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) that is tripped.

It is required by code to have any whirlpool tub, spa, or similar equipment GFCI protected. on a whirlpool tub, a good electrician will place the GFCI device within sight of the tub, in the bathroom. it looks like the same GFCI receptacles you have on the countertop, but without holes to plug things in. a lesser electrician will place a GFCI receptacle inside the service access underneath the tub. (this can be a hatch in the side of the tub, or a cabinet door in on a wall adjoining the room) a bad electrician has been known to place it in a completely different room, or under the floor, with the power cord of the tub passed through the a hole in the floor to plug in. find this, and press the reset button. if it solves your problem, great. if not, go to step 2 (also, occasionally, the GFCI device is a GFCI breaker inside the breaker panel - check to make sure the breaker is turned on and not tripped, as well)

If you reset the GFCI and it immediately trips again, there may be a problem with the pump motor. find the access hatch (if you haven't already) and unplug the tub. try the reset again. if it holds now, it is the pump. if not, it is either a failed GFCI (have it replaced) or a ground wire in contact with a neutral wire. (fixed by moving the ground)

if the GFCI resets, or will not reset (newer GFCIs have an interlock feature that prevents them from resetting if they don't like the flavor of the incoming power) and there is still no power to the pump (use a plug tester, or plug a lamp, or radio in to test and make sure there is power to the spa tub), and you have confirmed that the breaker is on, there may be a switch that is off, (the same electrician who put the GFCI device in a walk-in closet across the hall, also had a switch that turned the whole thing off) or there may be a wiring problem somewhere. at this point, it might be worth your while to bring in an electrician to trace down the problem. - you would have to check each point in the circuit to find where there is a wire disconnected or broken.

If there is no problem with the electricity to the tub, then you have either a switch problem or a motor problem. the motor problem is unlikely, as it usually results in electrical symptoms, as well. the switch is an air switch. the button on the tub is an air plunger, that pumps air into a tube, and pushes another plunger in the switch that turns the pump on and off. the plunger can stop pushing air (unlikely, but possible) the tube can come loose, or the switch can stop working. the first two are easily user-repairable. the last may take an authorized service professional, depending on the design of the pump.


If you have acces to the pump and switch please let me know I will walk you through what to look at there to fix if the plug is good.

good luck with this - hopefully it is just a GFCI.

This link will get you to a manual.

When you know the exact part you can order from the manufacturer.

Are you able to fit all this yourself? If you're not then get a plumber to do the whole thing - you'll have your hot water a lot quicker and they can get your whole system working mosre efficiently and this could save you money.

GOOD LUCK

Is it a 15 minute or 30 minute timer?

Sounds like there is a problem either with the board in your system or with the pump. if the pump has overheated then it will not come back on until it has cooled off. this is a long shot. I would guess there is a problem with a relay on the circuit board of your system.

You have a bacteria problem. You will need a cleaner to run through your system. some names to search for ... system flush, Jet Clean, Jet Fresh
Once you run the cleaner through your tub that will eliminate the sludge you are getting