20 Most Recent Karcher K2.26 Electric Power Washer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

orings arpposed to be very smooth all around or else it will leak

here is a website for further reference upon when you have no pressure n this unit. It will happen eventually as all do

http://www.google.com/search?q=Karcher+K2.26+1500PSI+Electric+Power+Washer&rlz=1I7GPCK_en&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&sourceid=ie7#sclient=psy&hl=en&rlz=1I7GPCK_en&source=hp&q=youtube+Karcher+Power+Washer&aq=f&aqi=&aql=&oq=&pbx=1&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.&fp=dffd0c150f157a6e&biw=819&bih=338

Check and see if you are getting power to the on/off swith. These switches have been known to go bad. Also, check the Ground fault breaker in the plug. Let me know how you make out.

The little white thing is most likely a capacitor, and only AC current affects this it blocks DC. These don't often fail, and if but if suspect, then replacement is the only way to tell?
You need to check at the actual terminals on the Motor to see if the power is getting there, it should be present at one side of the motor, the "Hot"side, and the other side or "Cold"side will contact to the Neutral wire, to complete the circuit. It is a very basic circuit.
You also need to check the motor is OK, While motor is disconnected, use a meter set to OHMS, and measure across the the motor's terminals, you should get a lowish Ohmic reading, if it is Open circuit, high Megohms, then either the Motor has "Blown" or the embedded protection fuses inside the motor have, either way the effect is the same the motor must be replaced. This is often what it is.
Below is a exploded diagram manual that may help, it's not all in English, but gives one a good idea.
http://www.pressure-power-washer.com/pdf/karcher/5955-6440.pdf

If there is no Karcher agent near you, most hardware shops and bearing outlets keep a range of o rings in stock. Take samples ot the part with you to get the correct size and thickness of o ring for your needs. Remember to put a bit of lubricant on the o ring when installing it.

ok im a technician... cheak d power swtich. i think most of karcher power knob switch they got a error problem.

i think the problem is a switch power knob!!

Dear Sir,
In this case the seals surrounding the pistons (3 in number)..are faulty.
You can open the cover first ( by using a TORX T15 screw driver). Start machine in this way with all attached...( never run a power washer with out water and never store a power washer with pressure in it). When you start machine with out cover you can more easely see from where water is coming out. Mostly the case will be that water is coming out from between the head and the bottom part of machine. If water went into the bottom part...then the oil is ruined also.
So this case needs that all seals to be changed. One must inspect the pistons....because if the pistons are scrathed and pitted...then it is useless to put new seals. Thus new pistons must be put with new seals...and other gaskets renewed.
fulltech.

First you have to do is try the machine without load. Attach everything as usual but do not attach the lance. Put on machine with water supply already on. If you close the gun the machine should stop. If you open the gun ( always with out lance)....the machine should start sending the water a bit far. If this is OK....then you have a lnance with a faulty, blocked NOZZEL.
NOrmally the machine stops when gun is released because there is a valve (Spill Valve) that actuates a electrical micro switch. This in turn closes off te electric supply...stopping the machine.
If with out lance your problem is still there....then the spill valve is faulty and the machine starts pulsating. AS I first said you must be sure that the nozzel is OK, so that you can blame the Spill Valve. When the spill valve is faulty the machine pulsates at high pressure.
I raely service Spill Valves (Control Valves). I change with a new one. When open the cover using a TORX T15 screw driver....you locate the spill valve where there are 2 wires coming out. Some machines have the spill valve incorporated with the head and the intake and delivery valves unit. This I advize to change with new parts. These all in one heads are very good because at one go you change the spill valve and the other valves in one go.
Therefore in a few words you either have a blocked nozzel...or you have the spill valve faulty.
So I advice again to try the machine with out the lance. If when gun is closed machine stops and stays that way ..it means the spill valve is doing its job. If when putting back the lance and the pressure starts to pulsates...the lance nozzel is faulty and thus causing simptyms on the spill valve. Also try to use machine with a new lance...having a new nozzel.
Fulltech.

First you have to do is try the machine without load. Attach everything as usual but do not attach the lance. Put on machine with water supply already on. If you close the gun the machine should stop. If you open the gun ( always with out lance)....the machine should start sending the water a bit far. If this is OK....then you have a lnance with a faulty, blocked NOZZEL.
NOrmally the machine stops when gun is released because there is a valve (Spill Valve) that actuates a electrical micro switch. This in turn closes off te elecreic supply...stopping the machine.
If with out lance your problem is still there....then the spill valve is faulty. AS I first said you must be sure that the nozzel is OK, so that you can blame the Spill Valve.
I raely service Spill Valves (Control Valves). I change with a new one. When open the cover using a TORX T15 screw driver....you locate the spill valve where there are 2 wires coming out. Some machines have the spill valve incorporated with the head and the intake and delivery valves unit. This I advize to change with new parts. These all in one heads are very good because at one go you change the spill valve and the other valves in one go.
Therefore in a few words you either have a blocked nozzel...or you have the spill valve faulty.
Also the delivery valves could be blocked...thus creating pressure inside and activating the spill valve to close off the electricity. You can also try to start the machine without gun and hose attached...but always with water being fed. NEVER put on a power washer without water being fed. And never store a power Washwer withpressure in it.
Fulltech.

Dear jingles 2,
I am assuming that the electric motor turns and that the pump works also. I always try a test by removing the gun and try the machine without a gun...but very important with water being fed. NEVER run a power washer without water supply!! I remove the gun to test without load.
Now most probably your machine just the same will not build up pressure. If without gun attached, it builds up pressure...... you will surely see the difference.
Now if there is no pressure it could be a problem with the valves. To check this put on the machine with water being fed and without gun. Try to block the outlet with your hands or 2 figers ( HOPING YOU HAVE SAFETY ELECTRICAL SYSTEM!!!!).....if you feel from this outlet that your fingers are being sucked....then the suction valves need changing. There are 3 valves for suction (and other 3 for delivery)....if only one of them got stuck open, maybe with some dirt...the machine loses power.
You can test the other 3 valves by putting you fingers on the inlet for a few seconds....if you feel pushing...inlet valves are also faulty.
Loss of power could also be to a faulty regulating valve (Spill Valve). I rarely service spill valves...I always change with a new one. In fact if I service the Valves I change the spill valve.....and if I service the spill valve I change the valves. Ofcorce all gaskets must be changed.
If you are going to service your self...you have to open the cover (using a Torx screw driver T15)....then you locate the head. If you remove the head there is oil, which also have to be renewed.
The spill valve you find where you see 2 wires coming out from a place near the head. This calls for special Technician know how....but if you have the tools and spares neccessary...it is childs play.
I wish to add hat if a valve is found blocked but not damaged..you may not need to change the three valves. Check the valves by putting water into them placing them upside down....if by gravity the water escapes the valves need changing. Important that all 6 valves I advice to change if there is a doubt. Also before doing this did you check if the machine still stops when closing the gun? In fact I doubt it, because of the problem you mentioned.
Regards,
Fulltech.

Dear Sir,
The power washer stops when the gun is closed. This happens because pressure is exerted on a control valve (Spill Valve)...which in turn touches a micro switch and cuts electricity. Now most probably your machine is dead because the spill valve is stuck down and closing the micro switch. This happens when one stores away the machine with pressure still in it. NEVER store a power washer with pressure in it. The spill valve also gets gammed because left with soap and machine not rinsed. I rarely service spill valves...I change with a new one.
To locate the spill valve open cover (using a TORX T15screw driver)...and where you see 2 wires coming out...there is the spill valve. If you can manage to do this..you can try if you want to lubricate it by spraying SILICON spray. If you get it out..you use silicon grease.
Sometimes these machines have the spill valve incoporated with the head....in that case the whole head must be renewed.
Regards,
Fulltech.

The power washer stops when the gun is closed. This happens because pressure is exerted on a control valve (Spill Valve)...which in turn touches a micro switch and cuts electricity. Now most probably your machine is kickin in an out because the spill valve got faulty This happens when one stores away the machine with pressure still in it. NEVER store a power washer with pressure in it. The spill valve also gets faulty because left with soap and machine not rinsed. I rarely service spill valves...I change with a new one.
To locate the spill valve open cover (using a TORX T15screw driver)...and where you see 2 wires coming out...there is the spill valve.
Sometimes these machines have the spill valve incoporated with the head....in that case the whole head must be renewed. I also wish to tell you to try using the machine with out the lance. If all works good...then the on and off could also be comming from a faulty nozzel.
Regarding the Spill Valve...when it gets faulty...the machine also lose pressure. So in your case it is most likely that the spill valve is faulty.
Regards,
Fulltech.

Dear Danny,
For sure the leak has to be fixed. Most probably the O rings that prevent the oil coming out or going into the head are damaged. You can open the cover first using a Torx T15 screw driver. The head can be removed by using Alen Keys in many cases. If you find the compartment of the oil under the pump head full of water the seals are damaged.
Now before one changes the seals, the pistons mustbe checked. If the pistons ( 3 in number have scrathes or grooves it is useless changing the oil seals. In that case the pistons must be changed.
If the pistons are found in perfect condition..( which oftenly are not)...then oil seals can be changed....and also all gaskets. This job is better done by a qualkified technician......but if you have the tools and a bit of mechanical back-ground...it is child;s play. Always when working see that electricity is not connected. I wish to add that the high and low pressure seals must be damaged also. Thus the pressure drops. Also sometimes instead of oil they are using a type of grease. You can see it as it resembles butter. As I said if you have the tools and all spares available....go ahead and good luck!!
Regards,
Fulltech.

Dear Sir,
The power washer stops when the gun is closed. This happens because pressure is exerted on a control valve (Spill Valve)...which in turn touches a micro switch and cuts electricity. Now most probably your machine is cutting out because the spill valve is getting faulty or stuck down and closing the micro switch. This happens when one stores away the machine with pressure still in it. NEVER store a power washer with pressure in it. The spill valve also gets gammed and faulty because left with soap and machine not rinsed. I rarely service spill valves...I change with a new one.
To locate the spill valve open cover (using a TORX T15screw driver)...and where you see 2 wires coming out...there is the spill valve. If you can manage to do this..you can try if you want to lubricate it by spraying SILICON spray. If you get it out..you use silicon grease.
Sometimes these machines have the spill valve incoporated with the head....in that case the whole head must be renewed. I wish to tell you to try using the machine without the lance. If it works correctly, then you have a faulty nozzel in the top of the lance. IMPORTANT...never run a power washer with water being fed!!!!
Regards,
Fulltech.

this sounds like an internal crack in the outlet head, simple to replace and not that dear