20 Most Recent Troy-Bilt 4-Cycle Curve Shaft Gas String Trimmer #41ADT41C966 - Page 5 Questions & Answers

the bolt on the end has left hand threads not right hand the most bolts have

Try my Tip on this subject:

www.fixya.com/support/r6270682-trimmer_weed_eater_string_replacement

Good Luck!

Jim

hello p, the leak is coming from the rear crankcase cover which is located in front of carb, the screws may have loosened up or the pencil lead thin gasket has a crack, remove the air filter cover and carb,the four screws holding the cover on and you will see the gasket,not much of one but it is there,as far as i know i have never had a front seal leak,oh when the carb leaks it seems like the crankcase is leaking,so check it good,hope this helps,

Hello, W/D here.
It should pull straight off. It may take a bit of force, and tapping on the bulbous head of the spool (the part that you bump on the ground to advance the line) will help to free it up.
Here's a link to how the spool works, and how to re-wind it:
http://www.fixya.com/support/r2827867-winding_line_trimmers
Best regards, --W/D--

I think all of these 4-stroke trimmers use SAE 30HD oil. I recommend synthetic. If you use synthetic, you can get away with using a multi-viscosity like 10W-30 if you can't find straight SAE30 synthetic, but don't use muti-viscosity conventional oil in these machines.

Please see and read page 6 of your manual here:

http://lawnandgarden.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/troybilt/4cycle_gasoline_trimmer_model_tb415cs_model_tb465ss.html?idRes=5150842

Unscrew the head's center bump-knob counterclockwise with your fingers. Pull the bump knob off and take the spool cover off the head. Slide out the spool and any remaining cutting line. Lift out the spring underneath the spool. Take out the slide washer. Unscrew the arbor bolt either clockwise or counterclockwise, depending on model, in the center of the trimmer head using the wrench. Take the entire head off the end of the shaft.

You are going to have to remove the cover and the clutch.
Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #20 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-20 (Star bit or Torx head) screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a hammer and a dull flat-blade chisel or a small piece of wood unless there are bolts. then use a wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers and a good flat-blade screwdriver. Post back if needed.

Take a look at the cutting head, when you spin it around do you see two holes line up on the side? If you do you have to put a rod in the hole (an allen key or Robertson screwdriver would work too) and spin the cut head nut off in a clockwise direction.So as it's upside down look down on it and turn it to the right....yeah normally that would tighten it but to keep the head from flying off it's a reverse thread. This is common on the ends of small engine shafts too.The nuts are reverse thread and if you really try to loosen it you end up stripping it...because it's backwards.Good luck.TickMagnet

Hi
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the trimmer is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Note:
The little spring inside of the carburetor goes under the float arm.
That is where your fuel inlet needle/float valve is located...on the arm at the end.
Normally there is a small indetion in the carburetor base and a small protrusion on the underneath of the float arm where the spring will be in the right postion for installation.
The spring will set in the indention and you will install the float arm with the needle/float valve and float rod into position over top of the spring,you will push down until it is in position and then you can tighten the screw that holds the float arm assembly in position.
Once you have your carburetor cleaned/rebuilt that should solve your problem.
Please take time to rate me

Try the clutch. I just fixed this problem.One of the clutch springs ate it's way though the red housing where the spring for the pull start is at. When the housing came apart the engine seized and I couldn't move the pull start. For the schematic on the engine here is the web address http://www.searspartsdirect.com. Hope this helps.

Here is my Tip(s) on this problem:http://www.fixya.com/support/r6078121-fuel_line_relacement_trimmer_weedeater
Jim

Don't know that exact trimmer, but I always run 40:1 in all my trimmers, chainsaws, etc. That is 3.2 oz. of 2 cycle oil to one gallon of gasoline. I rebuild these machines daily and run that mix in everyting, except when it's actually specified on the machine.