20 Most Recent Echo Rapid Loader, Trimmer Head - Page 5 Questions & Answers

There isnt anyway to turn the head the other way round as its ment to run that way just go round the edges the other way

Check out the manual (available under the technical documents section of the Echo webpage, or at http://www.echo-usa.com/documentation.asp?Model=SRM-210&lang=E )and it will tell you how to change it.

The recoil housing is held on by four screws around the housing on the corners, the pulley is held to the housing by one screw, all tension needs to relieved from the spring before removing the pulley. you can either cut the rope if you are replacing it, or you can pull some of the rope out, lining up the notch in the pulley with the outlet hole, catch the pulley and hold it from rewinding, and using the slack in the rope pull a section back in and up through the notch, the pulley can now unwind its tension without winding up the rope. Now remove the pulley, it should leave the spring in the housing. If the spring is very rusty it should be replaced, if you've sprung the spring out and have a mess, be prepared for a little fight, you can try hooking the outside of the spring in its tab in the housing and while forcibly holding that in place begin coiling the spring back in place, or try gathering the spring into a large coil and holding the coil with a pair of pliers begin shrinking the coil's diameter by winding it up from the center, last resort and the one I'd recommend if you're looking at a rusty spring, get a new one from an Echo dealer, it comes pre-wound and a nifty retaining clip, it simply slides into place in the housing, and as it goes into place the ring will pop loose. Now for the rope. Install the rope by putting the new piece in the spool and tying it off, thread the other end through the housing from the inside out, and put it into the handle and tie it off on that end, now place the spool into the housing being sure to engage the spring lightly, now install the screw so the spool doesn't come out, pull the slack rope up through the notch in the pulley and begin winding the pulley in the direction it turns when the rope is normally extended, after about 4 turns drop the rope out of the notch and let the pulley wind up the rope, if you have slack repeat a couple turns until there is no slack

Hello,

I advice you check the service manual on this, because there are technics use to recoil the spring and the rope in the echo 2400 brush cutter, if you don't have the manual, i suggest follow the below link to view the manual on the echo 2400 brush cutter.


http://www.echo-usa.com/pdf/documentation/SRM24002410eST1E_092499.pdf

The spring need to be handle with care while trying to recoil it in other not to break, so this require experience and mechanical knowledge to carry it out it.

Take care.

"Echo Power Blend Universal 2-Stroke Oil can be used in all of our 2-cycle air-cooled equipment ever made. You may also use this oil in any other brand of 2-cycle air cooled equipment, but it should always be mixed at the 50:1 ratio whether or not it was a 32:1 or 16:1 etc. machine. This oil is the highest quality 2-cycle oil on the market today. There is no need to have more than 1 tank of fuel for your 2-cycle equipment any more."
The above excerpt is from the Echo FAQs (6) here:
http://www.echo-usa.com/faqs/

Oil Mix Ratio:
The following ratios have been recommended for the last 10-15 years.
Dolmar, Echo, Efco, Homelite, Husqvarna, Jonsered, Makita, Oleo-Mac, Red Max, Ryobi, Shindaiwa, Solo, Spear & Jackson, Stihl & Tanaka; all recommend 50:1.
• 1 gallon of premium fuel to 2.6 ounces of quality 2-cycle oil.
• 4 liters of premium fuel to 80 milliliters of quality 2-cycle oil.
McCulloch, Poulan & Wen; recommend 40:1.
• 1 gallon of premium fuel to 3.2 ounces of quality 2-cycle oil.
• 4 liters of premium fuel to 100 milliliters of quality 2-cycle oil.
Chinese chainsaws recommend 25:1.

If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck.
Lou
Thank You for using FixYa.

Sounds like you will need to clean your carburetor.
Sometimes you can get by with priming it a few times, and letting it
run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,
but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
If the mower is over a couple years old, then I also recommend that you
buy and install a new carburetor repair kit, because the diaphragm will
get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, count the
number of turns it takes to seat the jets from their original position.
That way when you go to put the jets back in, you know how many turns
they were in/out.
Please rate me, Thanks
Good Luck, I hope this helped

I would suggest cleaning the carb (remove it) and air filter. There are a few really small passages in the carb that need to be cleaned which get gummed up due to the 2 stroke mixture and sitting for the winter. (Even if you drained the fuel)

DO NOT use a piece of wire or anything to clean out any small passages. Use carb cleaner and compressed air, put it back on, and see if it's better.

If that doesn't do it, a carb rebuild is in order. Not very many parts on those little buggers. If the cleaning doesn't solve it, it's most likely a bad diaphram from sitting and drying out. (Which I'm learning towards due to the lack of pressure when you prime and having it starve for fuel and die after a minute of running). There is a square plate on the bottom of the carb held on by 3 or 4 screws. That's the cover for the diaphram. Remove the screws and plate and look at the diaphram to see if it has a hairline crack, if it's sticking (there's a spring under it), or if any thing else looks out of whack.

push down and turn until it comes back up...now, on that spot that is all the way in, before it comes back up, pull up on it...got it ?? The release is located where the the spool is all the way down and getting the spool to "hang up" on that spot allows it to release...because it can't when running makes it a perfect location

This is nearly always caused by the muffler and muffler port being blocked by carbon not allowing the air to flow properly. Take the muffler off and see if this makes a difference. If so, then burn the carbon out of the muffler with a torch or throw it in an outside fire for awhile. Let it cool on it's own, do not use water as you will warp it and not get a good fit. Also take a knife and scrape the carbon out of the muffler port on the engine. Should solve your problem.

50:1 is the ratio. the easiest way to do this is to get a small bottle of the 2 stroke oil premeasured for one gallon of gas.

Check the fuel lines for cracks/breaks. If they are o.k., then:

Youwill need to disassemble the carburetor and spray with carb.cleaner.Make sure the small screen is free of debris. (Should be able to seedaylight through it.)

Use a Den Tek Brush, (http://www.drugstore.com/products/prod.asp?pid=165357&catid=1152),to clean the small portals in carb. These portals can become blocked. Reassemble and start.

If the carb. parts are more than 4 years old, you may have to replace them.

If you need further assistance on:
1. Fuel line replacement or
2. Carburetor kit replacement

Just let me know.

Jim