20 Most Recent Echo Rapid Loader, Trimmer Head - Page 4 Questions & Answers

I've been using these for years! It shouldn't happen after only a few uses! Make sure your line is at least 3/4 of an inch inside the trimmer head! If you have been doing that the teeth are clogged! Take it apart and use a triangular file to clean the teeth!

Please see page 14 of the following manual for detailed instructions (including tools to use) in order to accomplish this procedure. You see, you have to lock up the gear drive so you can get the head back on the threaded end of the driveshaft.

http://www.echo-usa.com/pdf/documentation/SRM242410ES_042198.pdf

The Echo rapid loader is quick and easy to use. You mount the rapid loader to your weed **** . After it is mounted all you do is insert the line that comes with it into the hole from the outside, push it in and it will lock automatically. When the line is done you just remove through the hole from the inside. Then re insert a new line. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/al_e83b1941f9c0f302

Maybe go to Echo's website and check with them.

It is ridiculous, there are a bunch of bolts, and then a multi-fit brochure showing a grid of nonsense.
There are instructions on the inside of the package, however that is how to string the line.

See page 29 of your user manual here:
http://dl.owneriq.net/7/7dac06e3-cacc-4083-a4da-fb7a073040b4.pdf

Yes, yes there is. A seller on Ebay has one and you can view it here. He mentions the model number. In lieu of this you could always try purchasing a universal type head. If it's not compatible, refund it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/TRIMMER-HEAD-ASSEMBLY-RYOBI-TORO-HOMELITE-983797001_W0QQitemZ390050079636QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20090508?IMSfp=TL090508129002r36610

See how the head is installed on page 9 of the Rapidloader manual. Removal would be in reverse order of installation. You can probably use a Phillips screwdriver for the locking tool mentioned.
http://dl.owneriq.net/a/a19727c4-b4e6-466f-8b8e-635e716636c1.pdf

For safety sake and proper installation of a blade, please see p. 21 of this safety manual.Read carefully;
http://dl.owneriq.net/6/69340357-bb10-44af-b005-20afbe8f5125.pdf

For installation procedure, please see section 9:
http://dl.owneriq.net/a/a19727c4-b4e6-466f-8b8e-635e716636c1.pdf

The instructions state that the string head is fastened with a left-hand threaded nut (turn left to tighten and right to loosen). This may be the reason you are having problem removing the head.

Check your fuel filter in the fuel tank to make sure it is clean if it is then"
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instrucitons you get with the carburetor kit.
If the mower/weedeater is over a year old, then I also recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
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line up the hole on the collar that the trimmer head is installed against with the arrow or notch on the gear housing, insert a punch or the brass colored pin that most Echo pieces of equipment come included with, this will lock the head. now turn the head clock wise, IT IS LEFT HAND THREADED! so righty loosey lefty tightey. now install the rapid loader with the included washers and10mm gold colored lefthand thread nut

Make sure the air-gap between your used blower coil module and the magnets on the Echo's flywheel is about the thickness of a regular business card. That is about .010"-.016". The gap HAS to be present in order for the module to produce the spark.

Check to see if you overloaded with the oil when mixing your oil and gas...if it is a 2 cycle.
If it is a 4 cycle then you may have over filled the oil tank, drain some out and try to run again
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I know I'm replying to a old post, but this might help others. My Echo GT225 might be similiar. Once u are down to the thread bolt & the round shaft part that spins in ither direction, u need to thread back on the line spool, at lest the botton part of it to hold the thread bolt in place. Then start turn that rounded part that normally just spins, it will start to thread off, as you are thrreading it off you may have to also start threading the line spool part off as well at the same time. After that you will need the tool that takes off the C ring clamp thing that's underneath. I couldn't find any info on this online, I just kept on playing with it until I figured it out, UGH.