Top 20 Troy Bilt Tb425cs 26cc 4 - Cycle Curved - Shaft Gas Trimmer with Ez - Start and Speed Spool Questions & Answers

Check the user manual for the model number of your machine. It should look like this:" PPN-41ADT42C063 Here's a parts list for the most common version. I wouldn't order parts from it, but it should suffice for our purposes of identifying the leak and the fix. http://www.m-and-d.com/pdfs/MTD/TB425CS_41ADT42C063pl.pdf If you look at the engine breakdown, oil is stored in the sump #76, and is used to lubricate the crankcase #XXXXX There is a gasket #75 between the two. This would be the most likely place for a leak. Also, look at the gasket #74 that goes between the cylinder #14 and the crankcase #XXXXX That's another potential area unless oil is migrating up into the rocker box cover. You might need to take off the cover #1 to be able to better see what's happening. . ref. link: My Troy Bilt 4 cycle trimmer is leaking oil How can fix that https://www.justanswer.com/small-engine/2r8o5-troy-bilt-cycle-gasoline-trimmer-model-tb425cs.html

Fuel jet may be plugged Not uncomon on small carbs. I had same problem replaced carb $19 from troy Built Problem solved

NOT THE CLUTCH.. Mine started doing the same thing recently...what I found is the metal piece at the end of the main shaft that accepts the drive from the accessory was stripped out....the part from MTD/Troybilt is $60... Save the $60 its an easy fix.... Remove the sleeve at the end of main shaft.... clean thoroughly with brake cleaner... Mix a small amount of JB Weld and fill along the walls of the "rounded out" area..Let set for about 2 hours so it gets firm but soft... Take an attachment, and slide it up into the receiver..making sure to align them square with the receiver. this will form the JB Weld putty to the drive piece. remove the attachment immediately!!!. Then let it set over night.... DONE works like a champ again next day.....

Jard you need to check that the bottom head is clean and there are no obstructions. Then check that the coil is in tight and the nuts are not loose. Finally have you been using the correct fuel mix? Clean the fly wheel with some lubricant spray and sand paper and re assemble.

Go On Troy Bilt .com and you have to put the model number down then you can order a new one thats the best way

go to there web site.

Hi plomelino...

Maybe this diagram will help determine which fuel line goes to what connection
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The power edger attatchment may have a slightly different coupling size on it than the other attatchments. Also, do a good inspection of the power head unit's coupling at the EZ LINK connector. Maybe the head unit connector is getting hot over time, due to a lack of lube, and expanding internally, causing slippage in the connection to the edger attatchment. Inspect all that you can.

Hi m greene223...

Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your caburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Check/Clean/Replace your Air Filter, a dirty air filter can make your engine run to rich with fuel.
Note: ALWAYS USE COMPRESSED AIR TO CLEAN YOUR JETS AND PASSAGES, VERY IMPORTANT.
Note:Before you disassemble the carburetor:
Mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you disassemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or by using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that, and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
Make sure you are using fresh fuel.
If the mower is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
The diaphgram may look good and flexible, but it can be deceiving and not act as a fuel pump as it should because it has become too hard and will cause hard starting,start and run and shut off, etc.
When you clean your carburetor, I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use COMPRESSED AIR to blow out all the fuel and air passages.The higher air pressure is needed to blow some of the trash/debris from the fuel or air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit, or you could also ask the parts man that you get your kit from.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
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Some are easier than others. You will need the correct size hex head screw driver - remove the screws that release the cover exposing the trigger. The spring will go between the trigger and housing.



Gary Rice

there are a couple videos on you tube that will show you. just search

Hi and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.

You can find your trimmer here:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Troybilt-Parts/Grass-trimmer-weed-wacker-Parts/Model-TB425CS/1307/1503820?pathTaken=&prst=0&shdMod=TB425CS

You can click on Boom and trimmer parts to see the details.

Or you can use this direct link:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/Troybilt-Parts/Grass-trimmer-weed-wacker-Parts/Model-TB425CS/1307/1503820/P0403525/00002?blt=06&prst=0&shdMod=TB425CS

For a printable enlarged picture use this link:
http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/P0403525-00002.png Use IE explorer to enlarge it to 200 % for best viewing.

Hopefully this is what you needed. If not respond here and I will help you.
Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Replacing the switch sounds like a good idea. they are generally tough to switch off (as you don't want to accidentally shut it off), but it shouldn't require you to have to use two hands.

You need to recoil the spring.

Hi,

The problem is probably due to a fuel flow problem, have a look at these tips:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r9230929-weed_eater_strimmer_will_not_start

Hope this helps!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPEZKST1Xv8 that will show you how, and if thats not the right model, look to the right of that page for more ways

It sounds like there may be an obstruction in the high-speed fuel circuit. You probably should clean the carburetor. Instead, you might try adjusting the high-speed fuel mixture adjusting screw to make it run a little richer. Before you do that, screw it all the way in, counting the turns and half turns, so that if you need to return it to the original position you will know how to do it. If adjusting doesn't work, you might remove the adjusting screw and shoot a little compressed air into the hole to dislodge any obstruction. But the best solution would be to clean the carb, because this type of machine sits idle for long periods of time and is prone to carb problems. I just had another though. The same symptoms happened to me, and it was caused by a thin layer or water at the bottom of the tank....and the water was only sucked up into the main jet at near-full-throttle. You could eliminate that possibility by tilting the trimmer to the side, and if it still died then water is not the problem.

See pages 13-15 of your owners' manual here. You will need Adobe Reader to view this.
http://dl.owneriq.net/4/454d80f3-13f3-4a31-b908-9b8d73947c03.pdf

Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instrucitons you get with the carburetor kit.
If the mower/weedeater is over a year old, then I also recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to seat the jet screws.
But before you seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
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Check your fuel filter in the fuel tank,if you have one.
If the mower/weedeater is over a year old, then I recommend that you buy
and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard
and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor
internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small
rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid
and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of
the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to
reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the
carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need
to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes
to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first
and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
This is a FREE answer,Please rate me