20 Most Recent Troy Bilt Tb425cs 26cc 4 - Cycle Curved - Shaft Gas Trimmer with Ez - Start and Speed Spool - Page 6 Questions & Answers

there is an air fuel ratio screw loosen that off and it will run off choke

Check your spark, as you may need to respace the magnetron on this if it isn't sparking continually. Just loosen the two bolts holding it on, place a notecard (3 x 5) in between it and the flywheel and then tighten it down and against the notecard. This likes to loosen up on small engines and is overlooked easily. Let me know how this turns out.


Benjamin

I threw it away, now I am looking for another one.

The longest, and sometimes smaller in diameter of the two fuel lines, goes from the carburetor to the bottom of the tank. Leave enough slack in this line so that the filter that attaches to the end will rest comfortably at the bottom of the tank.

The other fuel line goes from the primer bulb to just inside the tank, (about an inch). make sure that you get the right size fuel lines. The plastic coupling goes on the end of this line, inside the tank. This keeps the line from pulling out of the tank.

(HINT): When feeding the lines through the tank holes, cut the lines at an angle. They will feed much easier into the holes. You can than cut them off square, once you know that you have enough to work with.

The fuel filter that goes in the tank may be stopped up, (though highly unlikely).

Jim

You need to clean the carb. First remove the air filter cover and filter. Then remove the 4 screws that hold on the primer bulb. Be very careful as there is a spring in the carb. that will "jump out"! There are a few gaskets and aluminum pieces. pull them off in layers and be cautious as they need to be put back on in the same order. Clean all of the visable parts with brake cleaner DO NOT USE CARB AND CHOKE CLEANER! if you do the gaskets will swell and will not be reusable. On the last plate there is a gold colored jet remove it with a small scredriver. it is a semi cylindrical brass tube. There is a very small hole in the center of this. It must be cleaned as it is clogged with trash. after cleaning all of the parts with brake cleaner reassemble in the same fashion as disassembled. prime the fuel bulb and start it up... That should take care of all the problems listed above.!!!

Yes. When you put it back together, the drive shaft didn't get seated properly into its hole. You will have to take the cover off of the front of the trimmer, as well as the shaft. Make sure that not only the drive shaft fits in properly, but make sure the pull rope locks into position with the flywheel. They have to be done simultaneously. It's a little tricky, but you'll get it.

Jim

Sound like the clutch is going out or already is bad. There should be a cone shape cover that attaches the engine to the handle. Usually with 4 screws. Take those screws out and seperate the housing. There is a small centrifugal clutch, which is probably bad.

This model is a four cycle engine meaning that it does not a mix of gas and 2 cycle oil. You just fill it like your lawn mower, gas and fill the crank case with oil

Unscrew the 3 or 4 screws on the outside of the plate that is part of the pull string housing, there are 2 centrifugal pegs that are sticking due to trimmings getting in that area. Inspect, and clean the pegs that fly out when you pull the string. Do not oil (that will only attract more junk later), make sure they are free, and come out when you pull the string. And your problem will be solved.

According to troybuilt, here's their info.

For Briggs & Stratton engines use an SAE30 oil above 40 degrees F (4 C) and below this temperature use 5W-30.

For Tecumseh engines use an SAE30 oil above 32 degrees F (0 C) and below this temperature use 5W-30.

For Kohler L-Head engines use an SAE30 oil above 32 degrees F (0 C) and below this temperature use 5W-30. For Kohler Overhead Valve engines use a 10W-30 above 0 degree F (-18 C), and below this temperature use a 5W-30.

For Honda engines,10W-30 is recommended for general use, and above 55 degrees F (10 C) you can use an SAE 30.

For MTD Brand engines, SAE 10W-30 is recommended for general, all-temperature use.


K

Hello rscott6687:

From your Description it Sounds like the Exhaust Port or Muffler is Restricted with Carbon Deposits, the Fuel Lines May be Reversed or the Carburetor Metering Pump Actuator Gap is Incorrectly.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Doing a Diagnostic on the Engine for this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Remove the Muffler and Make Sure the Exhaust Port is Clear.
>>If it is, then Try to Start the engine with the Muffler Off.
>>If it Starts and Runs Properly, then Clean the Spark Arrestor Screen in the Muffler or Replace the Muffler if Required.
Is the Fuel Line from the Fuel Filter Staying Full of Fuel?
The Carburetor Metering Jet Actuator is Set so the Pump Diaphram Dowl is Just Touching the Actuator Arm. These Components are Located Under the Cover with 4 Small Screws Holdong it to the Carburetor Body.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

there are two ways to install the string..the cool way is without pulling the inner reel off the trimmer..just leave it in place..cut (2) approx.two arms length (thats spreading your arms out like airplane wings) of .095 string..now, align the arrow of the inner reel (it turns counter clock-wise..the arrow points outward) with the arrow on the outer spool (pointing inward)..holding the spool and reel together so the inner reel doesnt move, push one of the cut strings through the eyehole in the side of the outer spool, and it should come up to the right, through a slot next to a small round hole the diameter of the string..if it doesnt, it just missed the exit (as i call it)..pull out and try again..let about an inch come thru..now take that end of the string and push the line into the little round hole until it stops, which should be about a little more than 1/8 of an inch..hold it in while pulling the excess line outside the spool to keep it in place..now do the same with the other string for the other side..once you have both lines in place, turn the inner reel counter clock-wise to draw in both lines through the eyeholes of the outer spool..you may or may not get all of the line to wind in..not a problem..you will still have enough to do what you need to do..just cut off the rest..one problem you may or may not have that i do most of the tyme is that it gets hard to turn the inner reel..one solution is to bump the top of the 'bump knob' with your fist, then pull both strings at the same tyme, then continue to turn..this method is quicker and easier than the second way of having the inner reel out and trying to wind both lines at the same tyme and trying to place the reel back in the spool..hope this works for you...

Hello wds8of10:

From your Description it Sounds like the Exhaust Port or Muffler is Restricted with Carbon Deposits, the Carburetor Metering Pump Actuator Gap is Incorrect.
>>The Following is a Basic Instruction File for Doing a Diagnostic on the Engine for this Problem. Any Input is Appreciated.
>>**Remove the Muffler and Make Sure the Exhaust Port is Clear.
>>If it is, then Try to Start the engine with the Muffler Off.
>>If it Starts and Runs Properly, then Clean the Spark Arrestor Screen in the Muffler or Replace the Muffler if Required.
Is the Fuel Line from the Fuel Filter Staying Full of Fuel?
The Carburetor Metering Jet Actuator is Set so the Pump Diaphram Dowl is Just Touching the Actuator Arm. These Components are Located Under the Cover with 4 Small Screws Holdong it to the Carburetor Body.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Hello mart656:

>>The Following is a General Instruction File I Made to Perform this Repair. If you have Any Suggestions or Remarks, then Please Let me Know. Thanks.
>>**Remove the Boom/Shaft from the Engine. Remove the Mounting Bolts and the Boom and Center Drive Shaft should Slide Away from the Starter Housing Assembly.
>>**On Some Model Trimmers, there is a Torx Screw Inside the Coupling Drive that has to be Removed.
>>****There is also a Locking Screw on the Side of the Housing that is a Anti-Vibration Lock.****
>>Using the Breakdown as a Guide Remove the Starter Housing Assembly from the Engine Assembly.
>>Now Carefully/Slowly Remove the Pressure Plate Assembly from the Starter Housing.
>>The Spring May have Broken and Sometimes a Section will Jump Out when the Pressure Plate Assembly is Removed from the Starter Housing. When it Jumps, it Pushes the Recoil Pulley Out Also.
>>Look at the Direction of the Coil of the Spring in the Housing and Make an Arrow in the Direction of the Coil with a Magic Marker on the Inside of the Housing.
>>Remove the Broken Spring and Clean the Housing with Spray Lubrication. You can Use Solvent if Required, Just be Sure to Wipe it Before Assembly with Spray Lubricant. The New Spring should come with a Retainer that Holds it in a Circle.
>>If you have Removed the Spring from the Retainer, then Use a Piece of Plastic Pipe About 2" Long that is the Same Inside Diameter as the Retainer (Slightly Smaller than the Recess that the Spring Coils Into if you Lost the Retainer).
>>Coil the Spring Into the Pipe and then Set the Spring Into the Recess. Make Sure the Spring Tab of the Spring Engages the Spring Lock in the Recess.
>>Use a Socket to Hold the Spring in Place and Pull the Pipe Out of the Recess.
>>Lock the Pulley in Place.
>>Now Turn the Pulley in the Same Direction that the Pulley would Turn if the Rope was Turning it.
>>Once the Pulley will Turn No More, then Reverse Direction 1 or 2 Turns and Thread the New Rope Through the Hole in the Center of the Pulley and Out the Hole in the Blower Housing.
>>Pull the Rope Through Until it is Tight Against the Pulley. Now Tie a Slip Knot in the Rope to Hold the Pulley in Place While the Handle is Attached to the Rope.
>>Once the Handle is Attached, Release the Slip Knot and the Rope Should Retract Into the Housing. Reassemble the Blower Housing Onto the Engine.
>>On Some Models you May have to Install the Rope Before you Lock the Pulley in Place. If So, there is a U in the Pulley that the Rope is Held in While Turning the Pulley to Tighten the Spring.
>>You can View a Breakdown/IPL of the Mower at this Site Addy, http://hayward.arinet.com/scripts/EmpartISAPI.dll?MF&app=ASP&lang=EN&TF=Mainframe&LoginID=hywd&loginpwd=hywd&Partner=HYWD and Select the Catalog Poulan/Weed Eater.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck

Respectfully

jbridger (John)

Try cleaning up the switch button with Electronics Spray - you can get it from Wal-Mart for $3.
Usually is a bad contact or could be a broken wire .