Husqvarna Forest & Garden 125c 17" Curvgastrimmer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Really simple to fix, easily done yourself if you know wtah your doing. Parts are available from your local husqvarna dealer

remove the gear head from the outer shaft, the drive shaft should then pull out

Do you have good compression, good spark and is fuel getting into the cylinder.?

Hope this of some use

Are the drive shafts locked into eachother properly?

No, the two side by side are the H/L tuning screws, there should be another one above them which controlls the idle.

Use a hooked piece of wire to snag the filter through the fuel tank, it should pull off the fuel line.

Is the choke leaver in the off position when warmed up? Have you used correct fuel/oil mix?

50:1 which is 2.5oz. of 2 cycle oil to 1 Gallon of gas.

Jim

Check for a spark. If none, then the coil is bad. Replace it. That should solve your problem.

Your carburetor is probably clogged, this is very common. Once this happens you might try spraying some carb cleaner into the carb and let it soak for a few hours but most of the time you have to remove the carb and disassemble it to unplug any small orifices that are clogged with a small wire. You can pull out a small wire from a wire brush and that usually is stiff enough and small enough to do the job and then spray carb cleaner into it and let it soak for hours. You might also replace the carburetor gaskets and fuel filter and diaphram. I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jeremy_69f3cc28d95bf514

If new,,,it's under warrenty.

16:1 is WAY too much oil if you are using decent synthetic oil. 50:1 will be much better - regardless of what it says on the gas cap. Oils are much better now than they used to be.

Contrary to popular beleif, more oil does NOT help a 2-cycle engine. The oil (which does not burn) displaces fuel in the mixture, so there's less fuel than there should be. That means the mixture is LEAN, and lean mixtures run hot.

Also, check for a partially blocked muffler (likely with that much oil in the mix). This will also make the engine run hot.

Of course this sounds like the traditional fuel delivery problem that is adressed on this forum everyday. Check fuel lines, fuel filter (in tank), spark plug...muffler for carbon build up (esp on spark arrestor screen)...worst case is carb problem...check the other stuff first and look closely for any loose screws, parts and holes or cracks in fuel lines .We hope it is something simple that won't require a carb rebuild.

I think you have debris under you float needle valve allowing the carburetor to flood.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instrucitons you get with the carburetor kit.
If the mower/weedeater is over a year old, then I also recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
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There should be a small recessed area off to one side inside the handle for the routing of the throttle cable...Look closely. The spring that controls the return on the trigger isn't too complicated either. It has to be held in place somehere on the throttle handle also and may have to be preloaded so there is tension on it when you install it..Look around closely in the area in the handle RIGHT above the trigger.

sounds like the inner drive cable has broke inside the shaft that drives the trimmer head.

Ouch. It sounds like the cord rewind spring has gotten out of position. These things can be holy terrors to get back in the cavity in which they rest.

Check on a new rewind spring assembly. This might be more cost effective than trying to get a service person to put the spring back into place.

no release gonna have to loosen pull cord mount to see if jammed or something broke inside,when you get it loose try turning flywheel by hand to see if free, could also be stuck trimmer head

it is a left hand thread