20 Most Recent Homelite Consumer Products Tiller Attachment Questions & Answers

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I had one of these a few years ago which started doing the same thing. I get fed up with it, and was going to throw it away. I gave it to a friend who found the fuel system was partially blocked. After running some carby cleaner through it, it worked fine. Its still going now...

Nick the pins are supposed to line up also the little lugs inside the pully. When the rope is pulled fast the lugs come out and catch the fly wheel. Make sure all the springs are correct.

Hi, I live in cedar rapids, Iowa. I just bought a primer bulb for my htc-12 homelite tiller. You should be able to order as many as you need, but I don't have the part #. Find out what the part # is and call this # 1-319-393-0443. They have 2 sizes, the bigger one is for the chain saws, the small one is for the tiller.( they have both) Carefully pry the plastic band off the primer bulb, press the new bulb through the band, then go get a tube of permetex weather strip adhesive ( orange box, black adhesive). Don't buy any other brand!. Lay a thin bead around the base of the bottom of the ring, press into place and let dry for a couple of hours. This adhesive works on almost any thing, and is not affected by gas, oil, or anything.

Hi bh1149...
You have bad gears on the inside of the tiller gear box...
I had this same problem with mine.
You will have to take the gearbox apart in order to know what parts are bad.
Be sure to check the lube more often when you install the new gears/parts.
Go to the following website and order your parts.
Please take time to rate me

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/homelite-parts-c-18807.html

If that is the case, then disassembly will be required. That is the only way to fix it. If you choose to do so, here are the instructions:
Remove the tube that holds the flex-drive shaft from the front of the motor cover.Remove the rear engine cover. Remove the throttle cable from the carburetor. Mark and unplug any wires for the on/off switch that go to the ignition coil (underneath front cover) if possible. Now if you have pulled the driveshaft tube out of the way, the clutch drum is up next. Inside it, screwed into the very end of the engine's crankshaft is a Torx #25 screw. Before you loosen it, you will have to lock up the engine. To do so, remove the spark plug. Pull on the starter until the piston is down, then insert a length of clean, soft rope into the engine. The engine will come up and compress the rope, thus locking it in place to allow clutch drum and clutch removal. Loosen the T-25 (Star bit or Torx head) screw inside the drum.. You may be able to remove it with a long thin-blade screwdriver also.It probably won't come completely out...it is made this way. Next, remove the clutch. It is screwed onto a small threaded section of the crankshaft Removal is counterclockwise.. It will be pretty tight. To help, apply peneterating oil. Whack the ears of the clutch near the center with a hammer and a dull flat-blade chisel or a small piece of wood unless there are bolts. then use a wrench. It will turn counterclockwise for removal and there will probably be a removal direction arrow on it's face. After getting that off, remove the Torx screws holding the cover to the engine. The starter unit should be mounted inside as it mates with the top of the flywheel to start the motor. Remember to preload tension (5-7 turns) on the starter unit. Make sure the handle is installed. Jam the unit with a screwdriver or vise grips so you can insert and tie off the new rope. Then remove jam device and let recoil pull your new rope into place while holding the handle. Reassemble and you are done. Disassembly requires Torx head drivers and a good flat-blade screwdriver. Post back if needed.

you need to order the replacement coil spring, this is a tricky job to replace and if you are not handy, your best bet is to take it to a small engine repair depot.

Check your fuel filter in the fuel tank,if you have one.
If the mower/weedeater is over a year old, then I recommend that you buy
and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard
and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor
internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small
rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid
and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of
the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float for the carburetor must be level when you go to
reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the
carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need
to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes
to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first
and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
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Not sure exactly what you need out of the manual, but if you are looking for schematics/parts list here is a .pdf document online that has the tiller broken down. Hope it helps.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/images/homelite/UT-60526.pdf

Won't turn over or won't start?