Top 20 LG LRFD22850 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator French Door Questions & Answers

Something in the left door is shorting to ground. The constant movement of the door has worn thru a wire/wire bundle and that wire is touching metal.

Sounds likely. Did you try shooting a little wd-40 on the latch, then push something about the size of the pin in there to work it loose?

The shelf frame is cracked . It can be purchased if the part is still available from LG . I wouldn't hold out hope though because LG is notorious for discontinuing parts after 3 years. Find a parts supplier who has contact with LG parts to see if it's still available . I was able to order one for my customer back in the spring.

the fan goes off when door opened and when closes it will turn back on is normal operation of fan and door control --as to noise --fan may be failing ---iced over ----if seal failing will cause unit to run more and allows more moisture into evap which can cause more ice over

Below is a service manual for this model! Hope it helps! LG LRFD22850ST Service Manual

if its a older model. did you try defrosting it?

I don't see from the literature that this model dispense ICE from the "front door." The dispenser on the left door seems only to dispense water. In your configuration the water comes through a completely closed system until it reaches your glass and should therefore not have an order or taste different from that of your cubes in the bottom Freezer.

Water leaking in the freezer and on the floor in the front of your refrigerator usually is caused by a blocked evaporator drain line. Hope the video helps you understand what you will need to do to fix the problem. Appliance 911 Sea Breeze Leaking Refrigerators

Probably they are made not to be pulled out unless you really tug hard, so they shouldn't be pulled out accidentally?

Freezer /fridge water/ice in fridge and or freezer Usually due to CONDENSATION due to bad door seals or a plugged evaporator drain line? Can use a soft flexable tubing and very hot water to clean it out. Bad door seals usually need replacement, but u can use a blow dryer and something to pry it closer to the door wall while blowing hot air on to it. To create a seal, to test for bad door seals place a dollar bill in between the door and wall of fridge where it closes. Then slide out the dollar bill with door closed. It should offer some resistance and not be easy to pull out. Most all fridges have a drain. Look inside your fridge for a "V" shaped channel with a small hole. This hole leads to a tube and a small pan which sits on top of your refrigerator's compressor. The defrost cycle causes water to run into the channel, down the tube, and then it generally evaporates with the heat of the hot condenser/compressor. However, if that tube is clogged with food crumbs, particles , debris etc, you will have to clear it to get back to a normal mode of operation. A toothpick, pipecleaner, straw or a cotton bud can often do the trick. Even a frost free freezer will still ice up at times in the areas away from the heated defrost area and the drain line can freeze. This icing causes the pipe work to the compressor to ice over or sweat and cause a puddle. Or if the drainage has frozen over, it will need to be de-iced. ( usually the line is under the freezer bottom plate covering. Towards the back of the unit) And there is another inside the fridge area also. Give the freezer a good overnight defrost until it's totally clear of ice in addition to making sure the drain is clear to the pan at the back and then restart the freezer.

ICE MAKER not making ice Inspect Water fill tube, Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary. WATER INLET VALVE: Check the water inlet valve for any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted. The water inlet valve is operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow. You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part. (HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE: Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will be necessary to replace the valve (the filter is not removable on most inlet valves). Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using a multImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set the multitester to the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. The multitester should display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating). The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve. Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve. Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY: If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes. If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Also note that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.) If you have a heat release or modular ice maker it will have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points "T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest". On other ice makers jumper at points N & M (neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate. This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis. This is a live voltage test and should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently. Testing a thermostat in a component ice maker: The thermostat is located near the bottom ofthe support box. The thermostat is connected by two or three wires.Label the wire placement before disconnecting them. Remove thethermostat by loosening the clamp, by pushing back the retainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws. Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat whenit has come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removing it from the freezer). If the thermostat has two wires touch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading of infinity.Chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes andretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity). If the thermostat has three wires, number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinations should yield a reading of infinity and one should yield a readingof zero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before, should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinations should now yield a zero reading.If the thermostat fails this test, it should be replaced. Testing a modular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually. Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicate infiinity (no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced. God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good!

Hello; My name is Peter. I am a retired field service refrigeration technician. You have one of two problems: 1.) Frozen Drain: You unit goes through a defrost model every 8-10 hours. At this time everything shuts down with the exception of the unit lights. Then, your defrost heater turns on for 20-30 minutes to defrost your cooling (Evaporator) coils. If you have a frozen drain the condensate has no where to go except on the bottom of your freezer. This is a common problem. A trained technician would pull the back wall out of your freezer, access your drain, clear the drain and put a heat sink in the drain to prevent this from happing in the future. This is a major task even for a technician. This will cost you about $350.00. You can try unplugging your unit for 24 hours and let the ice melt. 2.) Refrigerant Restriction: In the upper right had corner of your cooling (evaporator) coil is a small 1/16" diameter tube with a inside diameter about the size of a small needle. This is where it is common for refrigerant flow to get blocked. This is where the high pressure liquid refrigerant turns to vapor. If there is a blockage, a large block of ice forms and drips water into the bottom of the freezer. Also, your cooling coils will not have a full frost pattern. You will get cooling and after a month or a couple of months gradually no cooling. A repair of this nature is about $500.00 +. Rule of thumb: "If the repair cost is 1/3 or more of the original cost of the unit - buy new." Here is what I suggest; Unplug your unit for 24 hours. If after 1-2 weeks the water problem reoccurs. Purchase a new unit. Go to a Sears Outlet Store. Purchase a scratched unit. Save $400.00. The unit comes with a full one year warrantee. If you decide to go with the repair, go into the Sears Home Services site and print out a 10% coupon on services.

http://kitchen.manualsonline.com/manuals/mfg/lg/lrfd22850.html?p=9 See if this site helps. I believe the information is the same for the door in question.

What do you mean by "pops"? If your problem is the door, then it is possibly leaking out your cold air. It could be the seal or the hinge.

it should be on hooks. gently lift up and out, ice could cause it to be tuff to remove... you may want to defrost.

Keep open and close freezer door. There is switch to make it goes any faster. Make sure freezer setting is at least half way on the dial.

What? Proof read your question. What is a hbe? Set the freezer at, at least, zero. Set the refrigerator at 38, if there are separate thermostats. I hope, I answered your question. Good luck.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/brands-products/LG-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts?page=1 This is a good site to find information

Check for frozen evaporator coil resulting from a failure in the defrost system or a failed evaporator or condenser fan motor.

If It were me I would change the filter in the fridge, that always worked on mine.