20 Most Recent LG LRFD22850 Bottom Freezer Refrigerator French Door - Page 4 Questions & Answers

maybe its iced up up there

The refrigerator is getting too much "freezing" air from the freezer compartment. The second CONTROL besides the temperature itself is a door that opens and closes a hole between the freezer and refrigerator, allowing more cooling air in. You must close that opening down either with the knob control or the sliding controls near the Veggie Crisper drawers. After some time the temp inside the fridge will settle to where it needs to be.

Er FF - Freezer Fan Error - This can be caused by frost accumulation on or around the freezer fan. Unplug the unit for 3-4 hours to allow this to melt off. If error code persists, call Customer Service.

NOTE: This
is a multi-solution answer since I don't have all the tech from your question to pinpoint your problem
But the solution is in here generically, if you read and study the solutions very,very carefully.
First I would check cold control. Thats where you turn it off, if your temp is not warm. it can
be defective and not shutting off. If your temp is warm proceed with the following.
I would check the fan in the freezer. Listen to see if it is running
It moves air to the ref from the freezer
Then check to see if FREEZER CONTROL is turned WARMER WHICH MAKES THE REF COLDER AND VICE-VERSA. SEE?
The ref. temp should be about 33-35
The Freezer temp should be 0 to 10 Any thing below these temps is overkill and a waste of elect
The higher the number you turn it up to is the coldest
But is probably a common defrost problem The ice build up
is not being melted by the defrost system.The fan can't blow through the coils into the fridge.
Take out back panel of freezer to check for ice buildup. The coils should be clean.
There are three components to a defrost system- a heater,heater thermostat, and a timer unless you have a defrost electronic card.
Its best handled by a Technician but you could possibly do it by taking your model number to the nearest appliance parts store and asking for the parts. They are mostly located in freezer ,behind back panel on freezer coils.except the card which is usually located in ref The parts store will have info
Also check fan undernearh Ref in the rear
Clean condenser coils underneath
Make sure back cover is on the fridge. Some take them off and throw them away.
make one out of cardboard if its gone, using the holes of the old one.
.I'm including my article on Refrigerator Repair for your help and convenience.;
Please click or copy and paste into browser for Article

http://www.fixya.com/support/r5816737-fix_refrigerator_psychologically
If you need more help go here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

MORE TIPS AND TRICKS:
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STOP PAYING FOR EXPENSIVE WATER FILTERS FOR YOUR REF. DO THIS====
http://www.fixya.com/support/r9962087-stop_paying_high_price_refrigerator
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WATER SPLASHING IN FREEZER AT ICEMAKER
THE FILL TUBE IN BACK OF REFRIGERATOR CAN SLIP
AGAINST THE FILL RESERVOIR CAUSING A PARTIAL BLOCKAGE
OR BECOME CLOGGED WITH ICE.
REMOVE THE ICEMAKER AND INSPECT THE FILL TUBE.
RUN WATER IN TUBE TO ELININATE BLOCKAGE AND CHECK
TEMP IN FREEZER. IF TEMP IS BELOW 0 DEGREES, THATS
OVERKILL AND USUALLY A WASTE OF ELECTRICITY TO KEEP IT THAT COLD, NOT TO MENTION THE FILL TUBE FREEZING UP
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Thanks for using fixya
Leo Ponder
imufo2
Please VOTE FOR ME AND GIVE ME YOUR TESTIMONIAL IF POSSIBLE, IF THIS WAS HELPFUL
ITWILL BE MUCH APPRECIATED.

The coils are in the inner section of the freezer.Its inside the freezer.The inside of the freezer has to be taken apart and you will notice the coils.--------- As you shut off the ice maker.So if the ice stops forming in the freezer durabase by shutting off the ice maker, this indicates that water is leaking from ice maker section or from the ice maker water passing water tube.------- If that tube is cracked then, water will leak and that water will get collected on the inside of freezer section.-------- -------------------- So for the problem first inspect the water tube going to ice maker.If this tube is cracked, then replace the tube.----------- Other possibility is, if the ice is getting formed in the freezer section and its not melting then, it can be defrost problem.---------- Try manual defrost procedure:---

The manual defrost reset procedure is as follows : ----
First unplug the unit from main power outlet. Then empty whole unit completely. Then keep both the doors open. Wait for 24 hours. All the ice collected on the coils and in the freezer section will get melted. Clean the water from the sections. Then Connect the power cord of the unit to main power outlet after 24 hours/.Then set the temperature to normal in both fridge and freezer section. Then check, is the ice still forming, if its still forming then problem with defrost assembly.---------- But first inspect the water tube going to ice maker tray.If that water tube is checked ok, then only check the defrost assembly.------- The defrost assembly consists of three main parts. The defrost thermostat, the defrost heater and defrost board. Any of the one is not functioning. When thermostat sense the maximum cooling, it triggers the defrost heater to start heating and this defrosts the ice collected on the coils and the system works. Both thermostat and heater are controlled by defrost board. First the thermostat and defrost heater to be checked, if both check ok by meter and visually, then its defrost board causing the problem. You can get required parts from from online sites like: --- www.repairclinic.com or from searspartsdirect online site. --------- This should help.Thanks.Helpmech.

Factory settings is 0°F for the freezer and 38°F for the refrigerator.

I am sending a couple links for the LG manuals but that sounds to me that water is either overflowing into freezer compartment from the fresh food compartment or when the freezer goes into defrost the drain that carries the water out to a condensate pan below refrigerator (Location #105A) has either ice or sludge caught in the drain. Here is the=> LRFD22850 Exploded View then scroll to page 44 where you will see the location number 319A That will be the condensate/drip collection tray where the water from defrost should be going. If the drain location # 105A is the drain assembly, pipe Z coming from under your freezer drawers. Where you say you see the water pooling and freezing. And the Service manual Click Here=> LRFD22850 Service Manual I will try to make this simple but I must try to explain with photos and notes with other links=> Leaking Refrigerators Just What May Be Happening and here=> Leaking Refrigerators! This may take some detective work because as you see any place there is water there may be water flowing down to the area below freezer drawers so look for any water that may be coming even from the water filter area inside fresh food compartment.Even a slight lean will cause the water to pool up and freeze there and close the drain slowly. If you should need parts scroll to page 51 in your Service Manual and on left is the photo location and on right is the part number under the model LRFD22850 then enter the part numbers into search feature here=>

Repair Clinic or Sears Parts Direct Here is the new=> Adobe Reader X

I also will be here to answer any questions you may have, Thanks, Sea Breeze

I did this and it worked great (so far - 3 days now...). It took me a while to figure out, so here are some tips.
The panel is inside the freezer, the back wall. You should take off the door, the ice maker, all the shelves and the left rail to get it out. It will then lift up and pull forward.
I removed 3 bolts on either side of the door to remove it -- not sure if that's best/easiest, but it worked fine.
You need to remove all the shelves and the center piece that drops from the freezer ceiling and sits on 2 metal rails -- it provides the slider for the shelf on the right. Lift it up from the two metal rails and slide the bottom to the right to dislodge it. The top just fits into a depression in the ceiling of the freezer and the bottom has notches that line up with the metal rails. The metal rails pop up -- just lever a bit with a slotted screw driver on one end.
There are 3 phillips head screws that hold the left rail (whatever the thing is that the door slides on). Remove those and pull away from the wall and forward. There are two tabs at the back of the rail that will pull free with a tug.
The ice maker has 2 screws on top, one below and is plugged in. You only need loosen the top screws, then remove the bottom one and pull the plug free (which was kind of hard). The plug is in an insert in the back panel and I just left it in place and removed the insert from the back panel using a slotted screw driver in the small gaps around the edges. Lift the ice maker up and off the top screws and it's out.
There's one screw holding the middle of the back panel on -- remove that and pull up and forward to remove the panel. Make your cut and reverse all this and you're good to go.

Looh up under the top and bottom of the handles and there are small allen set screws. Loosen these and slide the handle to the side and it will come off.

It is just mad at you. No, actually, many models have a thermostat or a timer which will turn off the light to prevent it from over heating and possibly melting the light cover. It should re-set after a short time.

Most likely your defrost T-stat is bad. Next suspect is the control board. Unfortunately that is the main control.