Troy Bilt 5.5hp Self Propelled Mower - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

The OHV engine requires periodic valve adjustment.

https://cf.hondappsv.com/files/OP/OP000011GLOBAL/2010_11_08%20General%20GCV135_160_190%20GSV190%20Engine%20Adjustment%20I.pdf

You've not provided much information, but my guess is that you need a new belt. If this is not the issue, then please elaborate. Best of luck to you.

Check the engine coil sounds like it is either bad or ground wire is not going to start check by removing the wire from the coil if it starts fix the brake ground if it does not start the coil is bad replace coil.

replace the whole cable it has the fitings and the end is broken on that one you should not be able to put back through the sleeve

If it is a Briggs & Stratton engine, go to the side of the engine just forward of the dipstick tube and you will see a plug with one black and one grey wire. Disconnect this plug, then repeat the spark plug test. If you now have spark, it means that either one of your safety switches (or the wiring to them) is faulty. If you still have no spark with this plug disconnected, you have either a faulty ignition coil, a short in the cutout wire to the coil, or a faulty spark plug.

The trouble you are experiencing could result from several different things. First, check the oil when the engine is cold and completely settled in the sump. You do not want to overfill the engine with oil. If the oil is on the full line (not above it),then the low oil sensor is not shutting off your engine. The oil level should be exactly on the full line-not above or below. Second, remove the spark plug and clean it with a small wire brush or sandpaper. If you are unsure about how to clean the spark plug, replace it with a new one. If both of these procedures have been performed and the mower still doesn't run correctly, the problem is almost certainly with the fuel supply, fuel quality and/or carburetor.

Check the following, Fuel, Spark, and Compression. To test fuel take the air filter off and spray starter fluid in it and try and start it. if it starts a little then it's a fuel problem (carb or bad gas). Test spark, remove the spark plug, put the coil line back on the plug and ground the spark plug to something metal. Try to start it and see if there is a spark (helps to have a friend to do this). Compression, If you don't have a compression gauge then a crude way is to have a friend put his finger over the spark plug hole while you try and start it (he should feel pressure) (if not then it may be the head gasket, valves are not seated or the piston rings) If pressure is felt then the only thing is the key way on the fly wheel is shredded.

Ensure the cable for the dead man switch is not kinked. Follow the cable from the handle to the engine. There are 2 bolts that mount the dead mans switch to the engine , remove bolts, remove dead mans switch from engine, let hang, try starting. If starting, clean dead man contacts and reinstall. You may have to remove recoil rope assembly and engine cove to get to dead mans switch.

the switch is built right into the cover over the carb , there is a cable that runs right too it from operators handle

the proper tool is a spark plug gap tool , there not too expensive (less than 15 dollars) but in a pinch ive used a credit card edge , its near the perfect thickness for a small engines plug gap

Remove the spark plug and see if the engine will turn over. It sounds like you may have destroyed the engine.

likely the old gas is gunked up remove the screw on the bowl bottom an look for a tiny hole thats plugged going across the bottom of screw. if no screw an bowl then its just gunked up lines.

if you follow the cable to the engine look at bracket you will see the mechanics of the emergency shut off and look close there will be a white clip with a black wire under it the clip is spring loaded push up on clip the wire comes off clean and reassemble make sure the clip is touching metal when the handle is not held down if not adjust so with handle completely released the metal part of the white clip touches metal there you go have a great day

Probably can substitute, but you really need the Owner's manual, especially if still in warranty. You don't want to jeopardize the Warranty. Try the MFG website or manualslib.com for the owner's manual with the correct oil specified.

Turn mower on it's side with the carb facing up (otherwise fuel will pour out of the carb) There should be one bolt holding the blade on, remove it and the blade will come off. Install new blade in reverse order. Use an impact wrench if you have one otherwise use something to keep the blade from rotating when removing the bolt with a wrench.

you have bad valves a valve job cost 100.00

If it is cam timing you are after there are marks on the camshaft matching the crankshaft that need to be lined up when assembled, if you after ignition timing it is pre set by the location of the flywheel key and ignition coil, but why do need to change the timing?

Typically self-propelled mowers are propelled using the front wheels, which only turn forward. Pulling the mower back while the front wheels are turning will damage the drive gears. It's best to raise the front wheels slightly off the ground before pulling back.

locked up engine pour oil in cylinder put some gloves on hands grab blade force turning it over this is with the bail tied down keep turning it till it frees up put plug in check oil start it it will smoke for a while let it run and burn the oil out of the muffler

mix a fresh gallon of 89 octane with a fuel stabilizer. run for a few minutes. the battery will need a trickle charger.