20 Most Recent Pentair 3/4hp 115/230v Booster Pump - La01n Questions & Answers

Remove the rear motor cover, you will need pliers and a 7/16 open end wrench. The opposite end of the impeller has a shaft that has to be secured by the wrench. The shaft has a notch on each side, it could be behind the two small springs that hold the spinning connection. There is a bigger shaft version that needs just a small end cap taken off and that will expose the shaft to be held and that is a bigger wrench. Once the shaft is secured, you may need pliers to turn off the impeller. Turn counter clockwise. Remember to be careful, it's plastic and well used. Don't forget the seals to put it back together.

hi,
As you said the elecrtical connectoins made by you is correct. But the pump is not getting power from the pannel board to which you connect the power lines. If the older pump burned out then it can make some trouble to the pannel board also. Check if there is any contactor relay in the pannel board, it will be there. If so you have to check the its condacts through which the pump gets power. There is a chance of burning of the contacts of the relay when the older pump burned. If so you have to replace the relay also.
ok

Hi,
Check the pump for an obstruction... the bearing that they are not seized up and the motor that it turns freely...other then that the motor is no good...

heatman101

could have blown a fuse on the circuit board, air lock in pipework or pump may have failed.
Adam
Canadian Spa Company

YOUR BEST BET IS TO COMPARE MOTOR REPLACEMENT TO AN ENTIRE PUMP REPLACEMENT
MORE THAT LIKELY ITS PROBABLY NOT A GREAT INVESTMENT TO JUST DO A MOTOR ON A BOOSTER PUMP
YOUR MOTOR IS NOISE IS COMING FROM BEARINGS INSIDE THAT ARE GETTING WORSE AND WORSE
NOW A DAYS I STRONGLY DON'T RECOMMEND EVEN TRYING TO REPLACE JUST BEARINGS THEY NEVER LAST LONG AND ITS ALMOST AS COSTLY
HOPE THIS HELPS--CHARLIE -POOL PROS

You have something along the line that is grounding. One of your wires is going to the wrong place. If you have it wired for 220 v, you have 3 wires going in, or 4, one will be ground, one will be neutral, and 2 will be hot. The connector at the motor should say line 1, line 2, white wire to neutral, and the ground possibly outside. If it is 110 v, it will have only 1 hot wire going in. If it is on a gfi breaker, then it has to be right or it will never stop tripping. The slightest thing wrong and it trips. If it still trips after all that, try it at 110 v and see what happens, It might be the motor at fault.

All motors are different depending on what plant they came from, when they were made and so on. The wire plate will have letters or numbers on it and the wires will be color coded and you will have a wireing diagrahm on the side of the motor. If it has been painted over a little acitone or nailpolish remover will clean it. Sorry I can't be more help.