20 Most Recent Troy Bilt Pony 6.5 Hp Rear Tine Tiller - Page 3 Questions & Answers

ensure that the motor oil in it was not presivation oil. some machines have a thick oil put in it to stop the engine rusting if stored for a long time this needs to be replaced before starting the engine. if the engine oil is dark and very thick this may be the case and the engine will need to be stripped to dislodge the piston. but that usually happens in a longer time than 10 seconds.
if not then suspect the motor has had some major mechanical failure such as a crank shaft break. remove the injectors or plugs to see if the motor will crank round without compression.

Check your oil level in the engine, normally if oil starts coming out of the air filter, it means you have too much oil in the crankcase. Drain your crankcase to make it the right level, be sure to check you oil level in the engine on level ground. I hope this helped, Good Luck Please rate me, Thanks

I presume you opened the port and removed the grade 8 placement bolt? If you have then you need to polish the shafts with 400 then 800 sandpaper, clean then lube them before trying to slide thru the support bearings. If your tine shaft is bent? your screwed, or just remove the shaft seals with a screwdriver and replacing them without removing the shaft. REmember to put a thin coat od RTV arround the outer lip to help make a better seal

It's 90 weight gear oil but most likely the output shaft seal has been gone for a consdierable amount of time and has leaked out and is just now making noise, they don't normally make noise right away after the oil runs out. put oil up to the plug fill hole and watch if it runs out the shaft seal if it does then it will have ti be repaiered.

if you have a B&S engine look at the frist two numbers on the code. thats the year of the engine and more likelyof your unit, As long as the motor has'nt been replaced. I'll checked on your serial number did'nt find a model. If this is an old troy built I'll have to call tech support. also I need to know what engine 4, 4.5, 6, 7, 8, hr power, and the name of the teller. MTD now owens troy built.

In my opinion, (which doesn't count for much, I know) the 7hp Kohler Troy Bilt Horse tiller was the best tiller ever made. Those tillers lasted forever if they were taken care of. I've got one of the 8hp Kohler versions, but it's just not the same.

It's become a lot harder to find an engine to replace these engines. You'll most certainly want to go to a Briggs and Stratton dealer and have them look it up. You need a 3/4" crank, 2 7/8" long with a keyway, tapped for a bolt to hold on the pulley and reverse disc. IF you find an engine to fit, you'll likely need to have a custom throttle cable made up to replace the current one. A good small engine dealer should be able to help you.

Now for the bad news. The 7hp Kohler was a cast iron engine. Any replacement engine you find will likely be an aluminum block with a cast iron sleeve and therefore, much lighter. What this means is the balance of the tiller, from front to back, is going to be thrown off. The result is - it will be MUCH harder to pick up the rear of the tiller when you want to turn at the end of the garden. You will most likely need to either put on one of the bumpers (if you can find one to fit) or figure out a way to hang some weight on the engine. I've seen people do some creative things to get the balance back. Whatever you do, it just won't be the same as that great 7hp Kohler. I'd suggest trying to rebuild it - if possible!

It is called oscillating, The carburetor may need adjusting or it could be caused by bad fuel. Manufacturer's school this year have told us, at every school, fuel over 30 days old is considered bad gas and needs to be replaced. You may even have a throttle or governor spring that needs replacing.
Good Day.

If you have a model number for the tiller. I would go to www.precisionope.com and look under OEM parts to find a parts break down and listing.

Just about any engine with a 3/4" horizontal shaft that is internally threaded on the end and has the four bolt mounting pattern around the shaft will work. I have gone to Harbor Freight and purchased their 6.5 H.P. engine that is a Honda clone and it will work fine and only costs $100-150 dollars. The only difference is that it uses a metric bolt to hold the pulley on the shaft,the four mounting bolts are metric and you have to disconnect the low oil shutoff or the engine will die when you are tilling deep. It is a good low cost option for the Horse tillers.

Frank

The recommended lube for a Troy Bilt transmission is 140 Gear Lube. It's tough to find. If you use lighter oil, the trans seals will likely start to leak.

Check under the metal or plastic cover just behind the engine. This covers the forward and reverse belts. Your belt either broke, jumped off fthe pulley, or needs a tension adjustment.

Frank

The serial number is stamped on the upper right hand side of the gear housing. It is on a flat spot just above the wheel shaft. If it is a newer model it will be on a white sticker on top of the gear housing plate. If it has the T handle it is probably an older 1980's model. If you find the six digit number I can give you the year it was made.

Frank

OReily Auto parts stores carry GL-4 straight 140W gear oil that will work for the old Troy Bilt tillers. Its around $12.00 a gallon.

If you are not getting fire to the plug you first disconnect the kill wire then check for fire again. If you still have on fire replace the coil, if you do get fire check the switch then the wire for a short.

I would check that I didn't have a key sheared off in the flywheel, that the start/stop switch isn't faulty, and that there is no missing or weak flywheel magnet. Hope this helped and best wishes.

The gap is between .015" - .020" when you tighten it down it gets closer so if possible use a .023" shim between the pick up and the magnet to hold it in place.

Check in line filter, if none, pull the line off at the carb, if no gas flow, blow into the tank to remove the restriction. If the tank is full of rust, remove it, dump out the gas, fill the tank with sharp rock pebbles the size of peas to a 1/8 inch of the bottom. Shake the pebbles around in the tank till all the rust is loosened. Dump out the pebbles, wash the tank throughly with water and pour out on a white rag until all rust and pebbles are not visable on the dump rag. Dry the tank in the sun, then reassemble. Remove bowl on carb to acertain fuel flow to the bowl, and it is also clean. If motor still runs inconsistantly, drop the center nut again that holds the needle jet, this should clear the problem.

I would check ebay, or goto troybilt.com and find a parts list there. good luck

You may be able to pick them up at a local shop or they at least can order them for you. You do need part numbers, but to get that, yoou need the model number of the tiller. Post that here and I can give you the part numbers. It will be located on the body of the tiller on a tag that says Model and Serial number.

You likely have a clutch problem, never saw one that a simple adjustment would fix. I'd take off the tiller (there are two bolts that hold the tiller portion to the transmission, and check to make sure the clutch is sliding in and out. My hunch is either the lever is loose on the shaft or the allen-head little bolt that they use to shift the clutch has come out. Be sure to grease the clutch while you're in there.

This should be covered in your owners manual. Shame on them if they didn't mention this.