20 Most Recent Campbell Hausfeld 28 - Gallon Air Compressor Questions & Answers

This may seem a bit simplistic but how are you hooked up to the outlet? Are you using an extension cord or is the compressor plugged in only using the supplied power cord?
If you are using an extension cord then you are going to pop the breaker every time you use it. Infact the manual states

"Never use an extension cord with this product. Use additional air hose instead of an extension cord to avoid power loss and
permanent motor damage. Use of an extension cord voids the warranty."
Air compressors don't like extension cords.
It simply draws to much for an extension cord to handle.
Depending on whether or not your warranty is out there is a simple solution. Find the biggest gauge extension cord you can


If your not using an extension cord and it's ran in the past where it's plugged in now then check the circuit because there must be new draw on the breaker

You said the breaker is 20amp. correct? The compressor should be run on a breaker dedicated to the compressor only.

Even though you should use a longer hose instead of a longer power cord you can get away with it. But forget about wire gauge size you need to think wire diameter. The extension cord I made for my compressor is approximately 3/4" thick. That is the only way I was able to use an extension cord on mine. A good place to get that size cable is a boat supply store. The cable used for shore power on boats works.
Hope this helps but if not please let me know and I'll try and help anyway I can to solve your problem.

Sounds like a motor problem. If you have a capacitor, it could be bad, or a centrifigal switch inside the motor needs adjustment, which is tricky to do.
An "off the wall" problem could be the pressure switch is just set too low, be sure you have a good pressure gauge before adjusting that,( range: 100-125 PSI)

Hi joefoster...
Yes, you can buy a compressor from numberous places.
I like Harbor Freight and Northern Tool...they have some good choices of just compressors.
Check them out.
Please take time to rate me

Harbor Freight... http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=compressor

Northern Tool... http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearch?storeId=6970&N=0&Ntk=All&Ntt=compressor&Nty=1&D=compressor&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial

Is the plug you are using have power? If not check the breaker.

It sounds like the problem that you are having is with the unloader if there is only 30 to 40 pounds of air pressure in the tank it would probably start,but if the pressure is around 90 pounds it would be starting underload, the unloader should exhaust the air from the compressor so it does not have to start underload the unloader does two things it works the magnetic switch to turn the compressor on at probably around 90 pounds and off at about 120 it usually uses 120 V to work your magnetic breaker that uses 240 V I hope this helps.

Check valve on top of tank

if its just humming and not starting you may have a motor start capacitor on the motor thats bad and can't supply the starting voltage against the compressor

At the risk of sounding stupid, did you try their website?

Mine is doing the same thing. I was told that I needed to check the pressure relief valve, but I don't know where it is located.

lower pressure leaving tank into gun by turning pressure regulating knob if your compressor has one if it doesnt you may need to get one from lowes or hd.30 bucks roughly.

when it reaches 120 psi it will cut out usually will cut back in at around 70- 80 psi if it struggles to restart at cut in pressure it may not be bleeding the head pressure om your compressor . this is done by the pressure switch which when shuts off releases a small squirt of air under it . to solve this problem you may need new switch . there is also the non return valve to check

replace the valve plate

Drain the tank of water...........

unplug unit look for a fuse on back of motor - must have built in reaker some where-n these are high rated units - electrical for sure

low oil in compressor if it broke at bottom /could be repaired if crank is not destroyed the rods are aluminum and usally just melt to crank
if this is problem muratic acid will dissolve aluminum of crank

thats your piston rings gone buddy thats all it can be

If the motor isn`t bad,then the one way (check valve )is not working,putting to much pressure on the head.

Take the outlet line off of the top of the compressor and turn on, if you feel a substantial amount of air coming out of the compressor then the compressor is probably ok.

When the pressure switch fails the comperssor will overpressure to the point of safety release at about 150 - 160 psi. It sounds as if your compressor is not producing enough pressure to cycle off at 120 and just keeps running. This happens when air is leaking from fittings or worn cylinder / reed valves. Don't worry, with some simple tests we will find the actual problem. I am assuming that your compressor is oilfree type. If there are leaks the compressor may not reach set pressure. I use soapy water on all connections and on the head/headvalve (remove plastic covers to get to all parts that may leak) while compressor is running. Make repairs as necessary. If still low pressure, while compressor is running and has reached max obtainable pressure (in your case 60 lbs), carefully place finger over intake port hole (remove filter). If the compressor is pumping normally but leaking there will be ample suction at intake and cause the compressor to speed-up when intake is obstructed with finger. If you feel plenty of suction and no visible (soapy water) leaks, then the problem is probably the cylinder /ring is not correctly seating /scratched and air is leaking past cylinder. Make sure that the cylinder /piston ring is properly aligned and that the lip on the vinyl ring is up toward the head. On oilfree compressors you can examine the cylinder by pushing the piston all the way up, then look for scratches neer top of cylinder. If scratched, pressure is leaking past cylinder, install cylinder kit. If you do not feel suction but rather air blowing out of the intake, (do this test when tank has reached 60 psi) then the problem is the headvalve plate/reed valves are leaking. The reeds must seal perfectly on their seats and not be bent or have obstruction. Replace as necessary. If reeds or headgasket is leaking the discharge air will be very hot. Only one other thing to check and that is the intank check valve. Easy to check. Run compressor till you have about 50+ lbs in the tank then unplug compressor. Carefully loosen the inlet hose at checkvalve and listen for air leaking out of tank. (check valve is the brass valve at tank) If leaking replace checkvalve. Use caution when removing head to try and save the gaskets. If you have oil type pump, and no air leaks (soapy water test) suspect reed valves/valve plate. Good luck on your repair and email if you have other question.